Gly question

Mattyq2402

5 year old buck +
I sprayed gly on my plots Thursday, how much time do you all give before you would work the dirt? What's too soon?
 
If you spray like I do then you have to wait at least long enough to go back and spray the two strips you missed.
 
You should see yellowing in about a week, give it at least 2 weeks, maybe 3 to allow gly to travel to root zone. As Rit said, you will need to probably respray the spots you missed.

If you disc the soil, you will uncover a new seed bank.
 
Where is the site located and what are you planting?

I probably wouldn’t get over excited about new weed seed. Whatever you end up planting will out compete the weeds. But their is always the moisture factor to keep in mind.


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I sprayed gly on my plots Thursday, how much time do you all give before you would work the dirt? What's too soon?

In most cases, I'd never work the dirt. I'd just broadcast and cultipack most seed or use a no-till drill. Beyond the damage that traditional tillage does to soil health in the long run, it stirs up more weed seed. So, I I was planning to do traditional tillage, I would do it first. I would then wait about 2 weeks for any weed seeds I brought up to germination layer to germinate. Then I would spray with gly.

Thanks,

Jack
 
What's your concern exactly? Are you asking because you need the weeds to dry out enough to feed through your tillage? That would take a couple weeks most likely. If you're just trying to make somewhat of a seedbed and some of the sprayed weeds slip thru the tillage pass then you're probably good to go. 3 or 4 days is a decent headstart.
 
I was looking to apply a foliar fert and liquid lime app this year, I was concerned about absorption into non tilled soil, is this an issue? I had clover with some weed to include stilt grass in the plots so I want to make sure I gave it enough time to kill. Planting vitalize carbon load
 
I was looking to apply a foliar fert and liquid lime app this year, I was concerned about absorption into non tilled soil, is this an issue? I had clover with some weed to include stilt grass in the plots so I want to make sure I gave it enough time to kill. Planting vitalize carbon load
That is absolutely the most expensive way to lime and fertilize. It may be necessary for a farmer trying to rescue a failing crop. They need to weigh the high cost vs the value of the crop. For food plotting, I would not waste my money. Gly is not soil active compared to most herbicides.
 
I think of this question a lot.

I’m not sure you have to wait for plant to yellow and die before doing anything. Decomposing of the plant is like a living body decomposing…..you are long dead before that happens.

All you have to do is wait for it to have had time to get through the plant and into the roots. For plants that “live” underground by tuber like kudzu, you should wait as long as possible. Most don’t do that.

I think if you wait 2-3 days, the plant is dead and can do what you want with it. You dont have to wait till everything is yellow.
 
Sometimes I spray before planting but many times I spray and come back later the same day and plant, once the Gly has dried. I do this both by drilling the seed as well as when broadcasting the seed. In fact, I have mowed, sprayed and planted the same day as well. You just want to ensure that the Gly is dry before planting.

I should qualify my comments by saying this is for No-Till planting - either drilling the seed or broadcasting into thatch.

If I were cultivating the soil with tillage equipment, I would do the tillage and then wait 10-14 days or more for the weed seeds to germinate and then spray before planting.
 
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I would wait about a week to ten days. If you a drill - you can even start earlier. You could even spray strips you missed a short time after planting. If you dont have a drill, if you dont have a large scale food plot program, if I wanted the best choice of success, I would wait about a week to confirm the herbicide was doing its job, and conventional till and plant.
 
If you are using conventional tillage, it's best to work the ground, wait a week or two for new weeds to germinate, then spray and plant
 
In normal conditions, it should be in the roots in 4-5 days. I asked this same question to multiple farmers I’m friends with and this is the answer I got
 
I'm pretty sure it's in the roots enough to where the plant will die within 4-5 hours. I've sprayed a lot of acres on the dairy farm, if it's rain proof within 4 hours it's in the roots. I have had plants that got rained on within an hour after spraying and they still died. Just my opinion
 
Here's what my Monsanto rep told me (not a scientist or a chemist, a marketing guy -- but a smart guy).......he said if I spray something accidently I could not save it after an hour.

It was dead....just didn't know it.
 
Here's what my Monsanto rep told me (not a scientist or a chemist, a marketing guy -- but a smart guy).......he said if I spray something accidently I could not save it after an hour.

It was dead....just didn't know it.
Yeah I will spray skips the same day I plant
 
I sprayed gly and cut it all down 24hr later. A couple weeks out it all looks like it killed to me. By the time you see the effect it's loooong been a dead plant that just didn't know it. I would have waited 3-4 days if that had worked for my schedule but it appears to have worked.
 
I know there are many different takes on this but I'm trying my hand at my first no-till/no-plow food plot this year and while researching the topic, I would say the average timeframe I've read about how long to wait after spraying Glyphosate on your plot was around 10 days. For me, I noticed a significant difference in "browning" from the first week to the second week. That said, as others have pointed out, the growth was "dead" long before browning. It just didn't know it yet. I mowed exactly two weeks after I sprayed and to date, there has been zero new weed growth.

I'm also going to be using a liquid lime/fertilizer amendment prior to planting. I realize it's not cheap to use that type of product by the plot I'm creating is a very small (<3000sq ft) plot in a very secluded part of the property so it would be very difficult to haul several hundred pounds of lime and fertilizer back into this area. The size of and limited access to this food plot is what lead me to choose the liquid form I mentioned. I'll be applying that this week or next and then, weather permitting, I'm looking to plant by mid-September.
 
I know there are many different takes on this but I'm trying my hand at my first no-till/no-plow food plot this year and while researching the topic, I would say the average timeframe I've read about how long to wait after spraying Glyphosate on your plot was around 10 days. For me, I noticed a significant difference in "browning" from the first week to the second week. That said, as others have pointed out, the growth was "dead" long before browning. It just didn't know it yet. I mowed exactly two weeks after I sprayed and to date, there has been zero new weed growth.

I'm also going to be using a liquid lime/fertilizer amendment prior to planting. I realize it's not cheap to use that type of product by the plot I'm creating is a very small (<3000sq ft) plot in a very secluded part of the property so it would be very difficult to haul several hundred pounds of lime and fertilizer back into this area. The size of and limited access to this food plot is what lead me to choose the liquid form I mentioned. I'll be applying that this week or next and then, weather permitting, I'm looking to plant by mid-September.
Think about it. In order to get the same effect, you need the same amount of lime (CCE being equal) regardless of the form. With liquid, you are not only hauling out the lime, but also water. With pelletized lime (which can be spread with any broadcast spreader), you are just taking out the lime. Pelletized lime is more expensive than ag lime for the raw material, but is something you can spread yourself without expensive equipment. With no-till, there is no reason to wait after spraying gly. I often seed before I spray gly. The previous crops does not need to be dead when you seed. It will be plenty brown enough and stop using resources by the time your planted crop takes off.

If I spray first, I want to wait a few hours until things dry completely. I'll then broadcast my seed and cultipack. I will often broadcast my seed then cultipack and then spray all in one day. Whether I spray first or not is depending on the underlying weeds. If I think I will get better coverage by spraying while they are standing, I'll spray first. If I think I'll get just as good or better coverage with them flattened, I'll spray last.

Don't confuse wait periods for traditional tillage for no-till.
 

I think the fallacy is that all the calcium we have put in fields goes to the plants. It is just not true. Think of all the leaching and condensed calcium from ag lime that never does a thing for the plant.

Most soils have plenty of calcium. Just not available calcium. Adding a shit ton of ag lime reminds me of flooding fields for irrigation. Sure it worked, but what a waste compared to drip irrigation right to each plant that uses 99% less water.

Also, with no till most of the plant absorbed nutrients go back into the soil after plants are terminated. The more I read and do myself I think a “good” liquid lime is better in most every way for the food plotter.

Reading your history you did change to no till from traditional till as the evidence mounted. My guess is you will do the same with this. Changing the ph quickly with a liquid and getting the first crop growing and absorbing well will have benefits for the next crop, and the next. My guess is this is the benefit people have been attributing to the ag lime “lasting 3-5 years.” If you stop tilling the soil stays in natural balance after getting a jump start from the liquid lime. My guess is you can do the same thing slower without any lime or using ag lime, but eventually with no till and regenerative ag they will all turn out the same.

My opinion, and worth what you paid for it.

When I say ag lime I mean pellet lime also. Any dry lime.
 
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