Firewood?

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Make sure you get the right diameter file, and use the correct angle. You can just follow the angle of the bevel on the tooth. You can use a flat file to knock down the depth gauge a whisker as needed. Here's a short video:


Thanks Telemark. I'll check out that video. I run 3 saws...an older made in West Germany Stihl 044, a Stihl 251, and a Husqvarna 350 and I have all the files and gauges for those 3 saws. I've just never seemed to master the technique. I can touch them up and make them a little better. But when I have a really dull chain I can never seem to restore life to it. I think my problem is with the rakers.
 
Can you explain the trick to that? I have one sitting on a shelf. Never could figure it out.
Not sure exactly how you're sharpening your chains, but I got much better at it when I stopped putting pressure downward and started filing upward towards the cutting edge. I think I was pushing down and away from the corner, and instead of sharpening the corner I was just making the gullet deeper.
 
I have 2 or 3 of these. You have to buy one for each size file diameter.

Its good for cleaning that blade, but setting the depth guide is does a great job. That a big problem with chains that are filed alot or filed electrically. Electric Takes more meat off the blade.

I just started heating with firewood again for my wife's pool. We closed the pool columbus day weekend. Probably would of been mid September if it wasn't for the nice fall weather this year.

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If it burns I burn it. With the exception of boxelder.
 
Can you explain the trick to that? I have one sitting on a shelf. Never could figure it out.
Set it to 30 degrees. It can go 30 in either direction. Just pick one, and you'll do the half of the teeth that lines up with. Then rotate to the 30 degrees in the other direction for the other half.

Mine has some flex in the grinder head's hinge. As I lower the grinder head I can push side to side and move it a few mm either way. You might this is cheap HF quality standards, but actually its a great feature! It makes the sharpener easier to use.

I adjust the little stopper bar so (with sharpener off) I can lower the grinder down and if I flex the head one way it doesn't touch the cutting edge of the tooth. But if I flex the grinder head the other way, the grinding disk rubs the tooth.

If you lower the grinding head and it hits the top of the tooth (preventing you from lowering it more), you have it set to far too much engagement. You don't want to grind a lot of the tooth off. You want it where the flex in the sharpener's hinge lets you flex the grinder sideways into the tooth. As you press the grinder head sideways (using the flex in the cheap hinge) you should barely hit the cutting edge of the tooth with that disk.

Then turn it on. Bring the head down flexing it so it will NOT touch the tooth, and when the disk is part way down the tooth, flex the head the other way so you gently grind the cutting edge of the tooth as you lower the head a few more mm.

I like to do about this much contact on each tooth

For mounting it, I screwed it on short 2x4 block so I can put it in my vice when using it. The rest of the time its hanging on pegboard with the short 2x4 block attached.
 
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Not sure exactly how you're sharpening your chains, but I got much better at it when I stopped putting pressure downward and started filing upward towards the cutting edge. I think I was pushing down and away from the corner, and instead of sharpening the corner I was just making the gullet deeper.

I use a rat tail file. I gave up on the machine after about a half hour of messing with it. It's been sitting on a shelf since then, probably 5 years or more. I'll get it out and try again.
 
Set it to 30 degrees. It can go 30 in either direction. Just pick one, and you'll do the half of the teeth that lines up with. Then rotate to the 30 degrees in the other direction for the other half.

Mine has some flex in the grinder head's hinge. As I lower the grinder head I can push side to side and move it a few mm either way. You might this is cheap HF quality standards, but actually its a great feature! It makes the sharpener easier to use.

I adjust the little stopper bar so (with sharpener off) I can lower the grinder down and if I flex the head one way it doesn't touch the cutting edge of the tooth. But if I flex the grinder head the other way, the grinding disk rubs the tooth.

If you lower the grinding head and it hits the top of the tooth (preventing you from lowering it more), you have it set to far too much engagement. You don't want to grind a lot of the tooth off. You want it where the flex in the sharpener's hinge lets you flex the grinder sideways into the tooth. As you press the grinder head sideways (using the flex in the cheap hinge) you should barely hit the cutting edge of the tooth with that disk.

Then turn it on. Bring the head down flexing it so it will NOT touch the tooth, and when the disk is part way down the tooth, flex the head the other way so you gently grind the cutting edge of the tooth as you lower the head a few more mm.

I like to do about this much contact on each tooth

For mounting it, I screwed it on short 2x4 block so I can put it in my vice when using it. The rest of the time its hanging on pegboard with the short 2x4 block attached.


Awesome. Thanks, I'll give it another go. I would really like to get that thing working.
 
This is what I'm using. Works well for me.
Screenshot_20250120_094442_Chrome.jpg
 
That Oregon sharpener looks like it works very well. I'm pretty good with a file, but it takes me a long time and the results vary. If it'll sharpen a chain after cutting old hedge, I'm sold 🙂
 
The low was supposed to be -11 last night. I delivered 4 truckloads of firewood to friends and family yesterday. Looks like it actually got down to -16. Hopefully they poured it on last night!
 
Out of curiosity T-Max, What is the going rate for a load of split hardwood by you?
 
I have no idea. When I do TSI I always cut and stack any hardwoods and anything else that burns well. I cover it and deliver it the next fall to my aunt's place. I've never sold any.
 
Nobody here has mentioned burning pine. Granted when it's cold , like it is now nothing beats hard wood (oak for me) for keeping the fire going with some nice coals. But I like burning nice seasoned lite red pine in the shoulder season for a quick short fire. Most people think pine will build up creosote and cause a chimney fire, but if i's seasoned right that is not the case. What do you think they burn in Alaska?
I have a firewood processor and running pine through it is like cutting butter compared to knotty oak. I have lots of red pine I'm clearing and end up selling it as camp fire wood. I refuse to sell it to loggers for the price they will give me on pulp. Even on bolts I make over four times the amount they will give me.
 
Couldn't pay me to waste time cutting wood or heating my home with it. Grew up spending every Saturday during the winter months cutting wood. Spent the first decade of home ownership doing the same. Kinda silly looking back. All the time and tools used to save a few dollars a month... Installed a Bosch heat pump a few years back and it's probably some of the best money I've ever spent. I find cardio is much more enjoyable when there's women and yoga pants involved.
 
Couldn't pay me to waste time cutting wood or heating my home with it. Grew up spending every Saturday during the winter months cutting wood. Spent the first decade of home ownership doing the same. Kinda silly looking back. All the time and tools used to save a few dollars a month... Installed a Bosch heat pump a few years back and it's probably some of the best money I've ever spent. I find cardio is much more enjoyable when there's women and yoga pants involved.
Everybody's got their thing. For me there nothing better than being in the woods dropping trees with a nice light weight professional chainsaw and sharp chain. As far as the woman in yoga paints , I get more satisfaction from porn hub. 😀
 
I enjoy cutting and splitting a little firewood for my maple syrup hobby, but burning wood as a main heat source sounds like a lot of work. I like to save my free time for fishing and hunting!
 
Couldn't pay me to waste time cutting wood or heating my home with it. Grew up spending every Saturday during the winter months cutting wood. Spent the first decade of home ownership doing the same. Kinda silly looking back. All the time and tools used to save a few dollars a month... Installed a Bosch heat pump a few years back and it's probably some of the best money I've ever spent. I find cardio is much more enjoyable when there's women and yoga pants involved.

I enjoy being in the woods in the winter dropping trees. Creating food plots, making trails, creating aspen regeneration...for me firewood is simply a bi-product of my hobby. It also creates a lot of browse for the deer in the winter in the form of the buds on the tops.
But yes, that's why I only cut and split 3 cords or so a year of my required 6. I like it as a hobby. But I don't want it to be a chore. So I am also happy just buying the other 3 and saving the time.
 
Nobody here has mentioned burning pine. Granted when it's cold , like it is now nothing beats hard wood (oak for me) for keeping the fire going with some nice coals. But I like burning nice seasoned lite red pine in the shoulder season for a quick short fire. Most people think pine will build up creosote and cause a chimney fire, but if i's seasoned right that is not the case. What do you think they burn in Alaska?
I have a firewood processor and running pine through it is like cutting butter compared to knotty oak. I have lots of red pine I'm clearing and end up selling it as camp fire wood. I refuse to sell it to loggers for the price they will give me on pulp. Even on bolts I make over four times the amount they will give me.

Pine causing creosote is an old myth that won't die. All trees cause creosote if burned incorrectly. Slow combustion, green or semi-seasoned wood, cool fires, lots of smoke, cold flue, poor air intake all cause creosote. Pine and spruce and fir get the blame because they burn very hot. Creosote builds up in the chimney after 4 or 5 years. The homeowner then burns a load of pine which burns very hot and ignites the chimney and the pine gets the blame.

Been burning spruce and fir for 20 years and I've never had a problem.
 
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