Evaluate and Recommend...

Catscratch

5 year old buck +
I'm new to fruit trees! Planted these pears and crabs last spring from the Wildlife group and would like some thoughts and opinions (I don't really know what I'm looking at or for). So far my untrained eye sees nothing of concern but I could be completely wrong. Give them a look and don't be afraid to say what you want. Spray, prune, fertilize, etc...

Pear #1:


Some black edges along the leafs but not much:

 
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Pear #2: Pretty much the same as #1

This tree looks a lot worse after pruning, but all it's branches were on the same side and most of it's height/filler came from those branches. I took off the least I could to get a balanced tree in the future, hope it responds well.


 
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Pear #3: Nice central leader and no black or markings on leafs.
 
Crab #1:


Some outside leafs either eaten or something...
 
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Crab #2:
Lots of new growth.


Has some apples on it but it looks like something has been eating on them, or diseasing them.
 
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My guess is that birds pecked those apples. I've seen that before and had them to knock them off the tree as well.

When the trees go dormant this fall I would go ahead and remove some of the lower limbs. I would rather prune them now than making bigger cuts later.

I'm not sure what the black spots are but it doesn't look serious. It really doesn't look like fireblight. I would prune that out now. Pears can have some leaf spotting like that.

Based on the looks of that browsed limb I think a deer was able to reach in and do that. I had almost the exact same thing to happen on an apple I planted this spring.

Trees look good to me.
 
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I know you have had hail recently from your other postings. Those dents in the apples could be hail damage. Typical pear damage I see here as well after hot, windy days on young leaves. I leave them and the trees grow out of it. Crabs can take on a more bushy growth type sometimes, but I would try and establish a central leader.
 
I think your trees look pretty good, especially that larger one. The other pics are very close up and the trees look small and bushy. My best advice, keep a central leader, push/tie down anything that competes. Even on your outward growing branches, make sure there is one bud that will get all the energy, pinch off the extras so it grows outward and doesnt turn into a bush! Training in the early days really does go a long way and it took me a good 3 years to really understand that. It's easy to manipulate a small young tree and more difficult to work with a larger tree. Do it early on and you'll have a great frame to pump out fruit in a few years and for many years to come.
 
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Thanks for the advice guys.
I've got central leaders picked out for each of them but was waiting to prune anything until late next winter. Isn't that the correct time frame? I'm more than willing to trim stuff up right now but I seem to recall reading that it should only be done during dormancy.
CrazyEd, you said to pinch off everything other than the main bud. Is it safe to do that now? Should I mess with any limbs that I plan on removing next winter, or just leave them alone until then?
 
Printed page URL: extension.oregonstate.edu/gardening/node/954
Apple trees benefit from proper pruning, spring and summer

Apple tree. Photo: Bob Rost
Last Updated:
February 5, 2008
CORVALLIS, Ore. - You can prune an apple tree any time of the year without hurting it, but late winter, just before spring, is probably best. The worst of the cold weather is past, so you won't be subjecting the fresh cuts to severe icing, but you'll still be able to influence the tree's spring growth.
There are several main objectives to pruning an apple tree, says Pat Patterson, Oregon State University Extension Service Master Gardener:
  • Controlling the height of the tree, so that most of the fruit doesn't grow out of reach;
  • Developing good limb structure for strength, fruit production, and the general health of the tree;
  • Encouraging a plentiful supply of new limbs, which will begin to bear fruit their second year; and
  • Ridding the tree of damaged or diseased growth.
The overall size of the tree depends primarily on its rootstock and innate vigor. Most apple trees are grafted onto dwarf or semi-dwarf rootstock. (Take care when you plant a new apple tree not to bury the graft, where the fruiting stock joins the rootstock. This will ensure that the fruiting stock will begin to produce its own roots and the tree won't be limited to dwarf or semi-dwarf dimensions.) Even so, you'll want to monitor the height of your tree to be sure it doesn't outgrow the spot you've picked for it. Once it's as high as you want it to be, prune the central "leader," the main upright limb, back to a lateral branch. Then keep monitoring the height year by year.
"Don't expect a new young tree to start bearing well until probably its fourth or fifth year," said Patterson. "In the long run, the tree will do better to put its energy into root and limb growth rather than fruit for those first few years. So concentrate your pruning to produce a strong tree during that period."
Inspect your tree for limbs that branch from the central leader either too sharply upward, forming an acute angle, or at too wide an angle. Acute angles tend to trap bark as they grow and can lead to splitting later on. Branches that grow at too great an angle from the vertical tend to be weaker. They also encourage "water sprouts," the unproductive upright shoots that need to be pruned off mid-summer every year. The ideal angle between the central leader and lateral branches is about 60 degrees.
In general, encourage branches to grow toward the outside of the tree and eliminate those that grow toward the center or cross other branches. You want air and light to penetrate the foliage to the center of the tree as much as possible.
"Different kinds of apple trees have different ways of setting fruit buds," said Patterson. "Most modern apples are spur-bearing. Many older varieties are tip-bearing. This is obviously very important for how we prune the tree so as not to cut off the fruiting wood. If you're in doubt, as long as you know the name of your tree you can ask at your local nursery or look it up in a good garden book or on the Internet."
Once your tree has matured and begins to produce fruit, expect new branches to bear their best for several years (perhaps three to five years) and then taper off. You'll want to prune off older branches that have begun to produce less in order to encourage new ones. This practice will help you have a more-or-less steady crop over a period of years.
Summer is a good time to remove older branches, according to Patterson, because it is then obvious which branches are producing best and which should be pruned. Summer pruning also allows you to get rid of branches that are showing signs of damage or disease as soon as you spot them.
Beyond these basics (which also apply to other similar fruit trees, for instance pears) there are many fine points to pruning a fruit tree. For instance, how far from the central leader should you cut a lateral branch? At what angle? Should you shorten branches or always take them back to the central trunk? Are water sprouts ever good to keep?
The OSU Extension Service has several publications on planting, growing and caring for home fruit trees, online. Go to the OSU Extension Service Publications and Multimedia Catalog.
Then select "Fruits and Nuts." Here you will find:
Order printed copies of OSU Extension publications online or call 1-800-561-6719.
Author: Davi Richards
 
Train those branches....
 
CrazyEd, you said to pinch off everything other than the main bud. Is it safe to do that now? Should I mess with any limbs that I plan on removing next winter, or just leave them alone until then?

What i mean is like new growth, pinching it off. I do this both on the central leader and on my main scaffolds. Like pictured below is the central leader on one of my trees. There were probably 3 other buds above the clothespins that i pinched off. I find that if you leave those buds on they may or may not compete with the central leader. This helps more energy from the tree go straight up and keep the tree growing up. I do the same thing on my main scaffold branches. If i look at the tip of the branch and see that there are 2-3-4 little shoots coming out, I pick the best one that outward facing and pinch the others off. I like to do this as early as I can in the spring but i found myself again doing it yesterday, and removed a few that were 3-4" long already. I dont find this causes any damage to the tree and really helps the tree grow up and out.

Any larger limbs that are well established should be removed during dormant season pruning (winter).

CameraZOOM-20150523133953408.jpg
 
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Lol, I cut larger and established limbs! I guess what's done is done.

I added after pics to my original post. I tried to take the after pics from the same place as the before's. Forgive my photography skills and if you want better views say so.

What I did: cut some of the lower limbs that I didn't want but was waiting until dormancy, cut everything that was crossing, made a clear central leader without competition, cut anything that was unbalanced or didn't have a similar sized branch on the opposite side.

I fear I've done too much but I can't go back in time and if anything I guess they may take another yr or two to produce. I can wait...

Any other suggestions or points of emphasis?
 
I hadn't thought of the hail damage on fruit (I don't know why, I worried about my young food plots but for some reason didn't think about the trees). You are probably right though as the pits are all on the same side as the hail was blowing in on.
 
I do the same thing as Crazy Ed in the pic on post #12. It really does make the tree grow upward on the central leader. I also prune off the strongest, most competitive upper branches that are crowding the central leader - or if they are not too large or far up the leader - I train them downward to about 45 degrees with limb spreaders. That establishes stronger crotch angles better able to hold fruit loads down the road. ( Same as Maya in post #11 ).

The thick bunches of new shoots at the tops of crab #1 and crab #2 in the pics I'd thin out and establish central leaders with fewer new shoots to compete for a central leader. Use clothes pins to train the remaining new branches near the top. ( again see pic in post #12 ). Most folks don't train crabs as precisely as regular apples, but I've found that in the first 5 to 6 years, some training of crabs helps to build a strong framework for the long-term shape of the tree.
 
Is that what the close pins are for... to train the crotch angle?
 
Yep. The clothes pins will force the young " branch-lets " to grow out at about a 90 degree angle to the leader. As the tree gets taller and the branches get longer, they'll turn more upward and the majority length of the limbs will be at about 45 degrees to maybe 60 degrees to the leader. But the crotch angles will be still be around 90 degrees. That's what I've seen on our apples and crabs. We've had some loaded limbs on a few of our young crabs ( 3 to 4 yrs. ) and the limbs didn't sag or break.
 
What about the pears... The one's I tied down last yr grew outward until it was past the tie, then turned straight up. Are they worth fighting or should I just let them grow upward?
 
What about the pears... The one's I tied down last yr grew outward until it was past the tie, then turned straight up. Are they worth fighting or should I just let them grow upward?

You are going to go batty when I tell you I personally would have left Pear #2 pretty much how it was!:D Dont lose sleep over it the pear will be fine. You will not over come mother nature all the time. Most pears like to reach for the sun. I would not leave any tight crotch angles as that increases the potential for disease and weak trunks, but otherwise you can just let them be pears for the growing season. Thin out the over growth in the winter.
 
Lol, I'm a little batty anyway. Pear #2 looked good from the angle the pic was taken from, but it was very lopsided. All of its growth originated from one side of the trunk. I just evened it out a little:)
 
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