omicron1792
5 year old buck +
I’m enjoying this thread. Thanks guys.
Thanks for the pic. My rear rack is about that wide. I considered putting the gun holders across from each other like that. The seemed awfully close to each other. My gun holder rotate to any angle, so I put one on the front right of the rear rack and the other on the rear back to get more separation. It also keeps the crossbow from sticking out.Running through the harvested soy fields has been no problem. The rack holds a rifle or cross-bow (although I use additional straps for the crossbow. 750W Heybike, Under $1000.
This inexpensive Coleman (utility) rack makes putting a rifle or crossbow on the bike easy. For the 'bow I use additional straps. For a rifle the "rubber bands" included with the gun rack hold it steady. I've been running through my forest trail and the harvested soy fields with no issues. As posted before, the fat-tire 750W Heybike has great reviews, is under $1K, rated at 320#, comes with the bike rack, and has held up this past year quite well. I was reticent to spend 3K on a bike if I was not sure if it was a tool or a toy. I am finding mine to be a tool, and if it fails, will replace it with something nicer with no regrets.
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For sure, if the bike rack was much narrower they would not work...as it is, I "lay them back" slightly for the crossbow, but they are fine for the rifle. I've not had it long enough to try the shotgun, but I feel it will work OK. Having a place to put the weapon allows me to carry a small backpack with my others essentials (coffee, calls, etc.).Thanks for the pic. My rear rack is about that wide. I considered putting the gun holders across from each other like that. The seemed awfully close to each other. My gun holder rotate to any angle, so I put one on the front right of the rear rack and the other on the rear back to get more separation. It also keeps the crossbow from sticking out.
Yes, I'm looking forward to having a rack for firearms. My crossbow is pretty short compared to my rifles and shotguns. Muzzleloader season is starting Saturday. I plan to pick up some metal tomorrow morning to build a front rack.For sure, if the bike rack was much narrower they would not work...as it is, I "lay them back" slightly for the crossbow, but they are fine for the rifle. I've not had it long enough to try the shotgun, but I feel it will work OK. Having a place to put the weapon allows me to carry a small backpack with my others essentials (coffee, calls, etc.).
Do you deal with any hills on it? Nice bike for the price.Running through the harvested soy fields has been no problem. The rack holds a rifle or cross-bow (although I use additional straps for the crossbow. 750W Heybike, Under $1000.
This inexpensive Coleman (utility) rack makes putting a rifle or crossbow on the bike easy. For the 'bow I use additional straps. For a rifle the "rubber bands" included with the gun rack hold it steady. I've been running through my forest trail and the harvested soy fields with no issues. As posted before, the fat-tire 750W Heybike has great reviews, is under $1K, rated for 320#, comes with the bike rack, and has held up this past year quite well. I was reticent to spend $3K on an e-bike if I was not sure if it was a tool or a toy. I am finding mine to be a tool, and if it fails, will replace it with something nicer with no regrets.
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that looks really cool. I don't have the tools or skill to create that... lol I bought the rambo gun or bow rack and mounted it to the back side of my bike. it worked well holding my cross bow and now we're moving into gun season so will be interesting to see how it works.Well, here are the pictures I promised.
The first is how I configured the packrat gun holders on the rear rack at an angle for the crossbow:
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I began working on the front rack today. The next picture shows the tapped holes that can on the front of the bike
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I took think paper (actually an old Lowes receipt) placed it over the holes and used a pencil to take an impression. I then taped the paper to a block of wood center punched and drilled the holes. I did not want to make a mistake with the metal. I then attached the wooden block. I used a 1/4 inch bit since it is slightly larger than the M1.0x40mm screws I was using. I figured this would give me enough slop. The block attached well. I then clamped the block to my metal and used to holes as guides to make sure I got the holes just right. Sure enough, it lined up quite well.
I leaned into my nascent welding skills and built the bracket. The next picture is the bracket after welding but before painting:
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I used 1" square tube for the bar that attached to the bike. I wanted to make sure I had enough metal on each side of the screws. This bar is 12" long. The rest of the bracket is 3/4" square tube. The front bar where the PackRat gun holders will attach is 24" long. This should give me enough room for adjustment.
Thanks,
Jack
Good point. Shouldn't be a problem for me as I'm basically on logging roads and cleared trails.While they have their purpose and abilities I never realized how much grasses can be a pia with them (and a derailleur). Just an FYI.
I don't take my bike the entire way to the stand I'm hunting. I do feel much more comfortable taking it much closer than I do an ATV or UTV. Depending on vegetation and terrain and such, I keep the bike out of the shooting area. I've always used my ATV or UTV to go from camp to the general area of my stand. I would always walk the last 100-200 yards. With the bike, I'm generally not walking 200 yards. In most cases I have vegetation or terrain that lets me take the bike close enough to keep my walk to 100 yards or so.I have a surron x electric dirt bike . Thing zips and handles hills no problem. Not completely quite ,but good enough. My problem is figuring out where to put your bike once you get to stand.
Got this two days ago.I don't take my bike the entire way to the stand I'm hunting. I do feel much more comfortable taking it much closer than I do an ATV or UTV. Depending on vegetation and terrain and such, I keep the bike out of the shooting area. I've always used my ATV or UTV to go from camp to the general area of my stand. I would always walk the last 100-200 yards. With the bike, I'm generally not walking 200 yards. In most cases I have vegetation or terrain that lets me take the bike close enough to keep my walk to 100 yards or so.
With an elevated box blind, one could probably screen in the bottom and park an ebike right under the blind. I have not tried that yet.
Very cool. I understand those motors they put on electric motorcycles are different than the motors on ebikes and have a lot more torque and hills are not an issue. Hope you like it!
I have found the same with cold weather. It will zap my battery fast.Here is an update on my Biktrix: ebike. I definitely did not over buy. I thought perhaps I could have gotten away with a 750 watt motor as it was able to creep up my hills with jus throttle with no sweat. Well, I got a surprise tonight. It had been in the mid to high 70s here. This week the temps dropped with highs in the mid-40s. When I went out to hunt this afternoon, stopped part way up a hill. When I started back up, the bike struggled for a bit and I wasn't sure if I was going to need to pedal. I gave it full power and after a few seconds, it got going fine and I was able to back the power off.
This tells me that performance (of this bike at least) is somewhat temperature dependent. I have the bike stored in a barn with not heat and the charger plugged in. One more caveat on this. The bike has 2 modes, Eco Mode, and Sport Mode. I was operating it in Eco Mode. In that mode, it tries to make the batter last longer for long trips. Sport mode is supposed to improve performance. I'm guessing this only applies to pedal assist mode, but I'm not sure. It may apply to throttle as well. Next time, I'll try Sport Mode.
Any any rate, I'm glad I got the 1,000 Watt mid-mount motor rather than the 750 Watt version!
Thanks,
Jack