Cuddeback's Cuddelink

Hoping someone can help me out with some questions... I have been using cuddeback for years now but going to start utilizing the cuddelink this year... I had bought two g-series cameras without the caps. Unfortunately I had one stolen, so the questions I have are....
1) what are my best options of locking my cameras? I move my cameras often and most of the time they are on scrape lines so i don’t like the idea of the box. It seems bulky and very noticeable. i also want to remove as few locks as possible. I like the idea of using a cable so can I run a cable around the tree and be more deterant than just unstrapping the camera. Can this be done with the cuddelock clip? I’m not certain how the clip attaches...I can’t find any pictures or videos.

2) can I buy multiple cables but all unlock all with the same key so I don’t have to have multiple keys?

3) Can I get still get a cap for my g-series camera and use it as a cuddelink camera?

1. The cuddelock clip prevents the camera from sliding out of mount. This would indeed act as some form of security IF the small sliding tab on the back of the camera were made of steel. But it is actually made of plastic and it is intentionally designed to release the camera with a modest amount of force. The thought was to reduce camera damage from bears by making a sacrificial mount. Which is good if you have curious bears. Unfortunately it is bad if you have thieves because it means a thief can easily steal the cam - a sharp yank will completely defeat the cuddelock clip by breaking the small sacrificial plastic tab. The camera releases from mount and is essentially undamaged and perfectly viable. An ideal solution would be a cable pass through, BUT unfortunately this is not present on the current G-cams. A thief is of course much less likely to steal a camera if the act of stealing actually destroys the camera itself.

The only remotely viable solution is to hide the cameras better, locate them at least 9' off the ground, and, to use a metal box. You are correct, the G-cam cuddesafe is quite big - because it is oversized to allow one box to fit different size cameras (ie: the cell home). Unfortunately, because there is no cable pass through on the camera itself the best results come from using two locks per cuddesafe. I use one cable lock for the top, and one padlock for the bottom. Also, do not use the screws included with the cuddesafe to attach to a tree. The screws are bugle shaped (like sheet rock screws) and some users are reporting this promotes pull through.

2. Amazon has a vendor that will key alike as many, or as few, cable locks as you wish. I have three dozen - all keyed alike. They are Master cable locks with a camo finish. Other vendors have inexpensive padlocks keyed alike.
 
1. The cuddelock clip prevents the camera from sliding out of mount. This would indeed act as some form of security IF the small sliding tab on the back of the camera were made of steel. But it is actually made of plastic and it is intentionally designed to release the camera with a modest amount of force. The thought was to reduce camera damage from bears by making a sacrificial mount. Which is good if you have curious bears. Unfortunately it is bad if you have thieves because it means a thief can easily steal the cam - a sharp yank will completely defeat the cuddelock clip by breaking the small sacrificial plastic tab. The camera releases from mount and is essentially undamaged and perfectly viable. An ideal solution would be a cable pass through, BUT unfortunately this is not present on the current G-cams. A thief is of course much less likely to steal a camera if the act of stealing actually destroys the camera itself.

The only remotely viable solution is to hide the cameras better, locate them at least 9' off the ground, and, to use a metal box. You are correct, the G-cam cuddesafe is quite big - because it is oversized to allow one box to fit different size cameras (ie: the cell home). Unfortunately, because there is no cable pass through on the camera itself the best results come from using two locks per cuddesafe. I use one cable lock for the top, and one padlock for the bottom. Also, do not use the screws included with the cuddesafe to attach to a tree. The screws are bugle shaped (like sheet rock screws) and some users are reporting this promotes pull through.

2. Amazon has a vendor that will key alike as many, or as few, cable locks as you wish. I have three dozen - all keyed alike. They are Master cable locks with a camo finish. Other vendors have inexpensive padlocks keyed alike.
Thanks for the explanation. So, without using the safe my only option is using a pad lock with the cuddelock clip which locks the camera to the genius mount. Then running a cable through the genius mount around the tree. So I will have two locks per camera. I don’t plan on using the screw because if my camera isn’t in a spot that produces i want to be able to move it quickly and quietly as possible.

Where do the external battery packs come into play for this setup?
 
I lost a key once to a python master lock cable around my camera. It took exactly 1 minute to cut the cable off with hand held tree pruners I use for apple trees. I’ve found the best defense as mentioned, hide the cameras, put up high and don’t put them in areas that would generally be walked
 
I lost a key once to a python master lock cable around my camera. It took exactly 1 minute to cut the cable off with hand held tree pruners I use for apple trees. I’ve found the best defense as mentioned, hide the cameras, put up high and don’t put them in areas that would generally be walked
I’m not as worried as someone tresspassing intentionally looking for my cameras to steal. I just want a deterant from someone walking thru my property during gun season, seeing my camera, unstrapping it, and taking it.
 
Thanks for the explanation. So, without using the safe my only option is using a pad lock with the cuddelock clip which locks the camera to the genius mount. Then running a cable through the genius mount around the tree. So I will have two locks per camera. I don’t plan on using the screw because if my camera isn’t in a spot that produces i want to be able to move it quickly and quietly as possible.

Where do the external battery packs come into play for this setup?
No, the cuddelock clip does not provide any security at all. Two locks as I described are for the cuddesafe. The cuddelock clip can be disabled with a sharp tug. The cuddesafe with locks will at least require tools and/or more time to disable. Make the thieves work for it.
 
I lost a key once to a python master lock cable around my camera. It took exactly 1 minute to cut the cable off with hand held tree pruners I use for apple trees. I’ve found the best defense as mentioned, hide the cameras, put up high and don’t put them in areas that would generally be walked
Agreed. But, this is the reason to add the padlock to the bottom of the cuddesafe. Slow down the thief.
 
I’m not as worried as someone tresspassing intentionally looking for my cameras to steal. I just want a deterant from someone walking thru my property during gun season, seeing my camera, unstrapping it, and taking it.
look on the site at the #3488 or #3334 mount. if you screw those to the tree with decent size screws and lock them it makes it difficult to get off the tree , nothing is 100 % but its a pretty good deterrent , Even the plastic mount can be locked and its not really easy to get off if you screw it to the tree. I have a lot of cameras in the same locations each year , escpecially on scrapes etc. I leave my metal genius mounts on those trees so i can move them quickly if needed. I rarely use straps. I either use those or post mounts for all my cameras. I dont have much worry regarding theft on any of my properties.
 
look on the site at the #3488 or #3334 mount. if you screw those to the tree with decent size screws and lock them it makes it difficult to get off the tree , nothing is 100 % but its a pretty good deterrent , Even the plastic mount can be locked and its not really easy to get off if you screw it to the tree. I have a lot of cameras in the same locations each year , escpecially on scrapes etc. I leave my metal genius mounts on those trees so i can move them quickly if needed. I rarely use straps. I either use those or post mounts for all my cameras. I dont have much worry regarding theft on any of my properties.
Thanks John. I will check them out.
 
Here are PTL 3488 #12.jpghere are some images that show how you can lock the cameras on the mounts i described. The camera blocks the screws that secure the mount to the tree , its difficult to get enough leverage to break off the genius plate on the back of the mcaera , possibly could do it with a large hammer etc but it would take significant effort. PTL 3488 #11.jpg
 
Here are View attachment 22725here are some images that show how you can lock the cameras on the mounts i described. The camera blocks the screws that secure the mount to the tree , its difficult to get enough leverage to break off the genius plate on the back of the mcaera , possibly could do it with a large hammer etc but it would take significant effort. View attachment 22724
That helps a lot. Thanks, John.
 
Is anybody running external 6V or 12V batteries on their Cuddelink cameras? If so, can you share the components (battery size, regulator, etc...) that you picked and if your happy with the end results?
 
I’m not as worried as someone tresspassing intentionally looking for my cameras to steal. I just want a deterant from someone walking thru my property during gun season, seeing my camera, unstrapping it, and taking it.

Given what you describe (not using cuddesafes, only using straps - no screws) then your best bet is to use a climbing stick and get the cams 9' or more off the ground. I use the Lone Wolf climbing stick, it is light and compact. You have already had a theft, if you place cams below 9' feet with only the cuddelock clip 3303 you are begging for another loss. Same for the battery packs - except there is no optional cuddesafe for them. The battery packs must be left unprotected, there is no way to secure them... another reason to keep everything up and out of reach. The other thing to do is apply effective camouflage to all the components (camera, battery, antenna, wires, etc). Just my 2 cents.
 
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Given what you describe (not using cuddesafes, only using straps - no screws) then your best bet is to use a climbing stick and get the cams 9' or more off the ground. I use the Lone Wolf climbing stick, it is light and compact. You have already had a theft, if you place cams below 9' feet with only the clip you are begging for another loss. Same for the battery packs - except there is no optional cuddesafe for them. The battery packs must be left unprotected, there is no way to secure them... another reason to keep everything up and out of reach. Just my 2 cents.
Freddy,

The plastic tab is actually way more tough and resilient than you seem to think it is! I've lost only one camera that was locked on a genius mount in the past and in retrospect it was probably my own fault. The camera was locked on an older tilt (not pan/tilt) genius mount with a lock clip and padlock. The thief twisted the entire mount counter-clockwise 90 degrees and then jumped on the horizontal camera to bend the mount downward about 45 degrees. When I came by the mangled mount, lock-clip and padlock were on the tree and the camera was gone without a trace of broken plastic on the ground. That's a lot of torquing and abuse to not leave behind a shred of plastic if it broke.

I puzzled over that for a few days until it dawned on me what had probably happened. Below is a pic of the back of a C camera (the E and G models are the same) showing the plastic tab and its mounting screws...
IMG_20190206_140440525.jpg
And here is a pic with the tab removed showing how it's mounted to the camera body...
IMG_20190206_140646493.jpg
On a G model camera there are a total of 17 exterior screws with only one that doesn't thread into a brass insert. The one exception is the screw that I have marked as the "weak point" which is the culprit that allowed the thief to get my camera off the mount. The screw is a tiny #4 X 3/8" with only 1/4" of threads gripping into the camera body. Any damage to these threads in the plastic body render the camera vulnerable so if you have a reason to take the tab off be damned careful when you replace it to not over torque that screw and bugger the threads! Once those threads have been damaged or breached there is just enough flex in the plastic tab to be able to slip the lock-clip over the knurled screw head and release the camera... assuming the thief has something to pry with and a good enough view of the mechanism to know how it locks. Could a thief get the job done if the threads were undamaged? He probably could if he could get enough leverage on it, but I'm pretty sure I helped him along by over torquing that screw sometime in the past. Will that plastic tab just break away with a moderate force? Absolutely not!

Obviously, I need to find a little bigger and little longer #6 X 1/2" stainless screw to fix up the buggered C camera pictured above! :emoji_wink:
 
What is the purpose of this small pair of holes below the lens?

20190211_092754.jpg
 
Freddy,

The plastic tab is actually way more tough and resilient than you seem to think it is! I've lost only one camera that was locked on a genius mount in the past and in retrospect it was probably my own fault. The camera was locked on an older tilt (not pan/tilt) genius mount with a lock clip and padlock. The thief twisted the entire mount counter-clockwise 90 degrees and then jumped on the horizontal camera to bend the mount downward about 45 degrees. When I came by the mangled mount, lock-clip and padlock were on the tree and the camera was gone without a trace of broken plastic on the ground. That's a lot of torquing and abuse to not leave behind a shred of plastic if it broke.

I puzzled over that for a few days until it dawned on me what had probably happened. Below is a pic of the back of a C camera (the E and G models are the same) showing the plastic tab and its mounting screws...
View attachment 22727
And here is a pic with the tab removed showing how it's mounted to the camera body...
View attachment 22728
On a G model camera there are a total of 17 exterior screws with only one that doesn't thread into a brass insert. The one exception is the screw that I have marked as the "weak point" which is the culprit that allowed the thief to get my camera off the mount. The screw is a tiny #4 X 3/8" with only 1/4" of threads gripping into the camera body. Any damage to these threads in the plastic body render the camera vulnerable so if you have a reason to take the tab off be damned careful when you replace it to not over torque that screw and bugger the threads! Once those threads have been damaged or breached there is just enough flex in the plastic tab to be able to slip the lock-clip over the knurled screw head and release the camera... assuming the thief has something to pry with and a good enough view of the mechanism to know how it locks. Could a thief get the job done if the threads were undamaged? He probably could if he could get enough leverage on it, but I'm pretty sure I helped him along by over torquing that screw sometime in the past. Will that plastic tab just break away with a moderate force? Absolutely not!

Obviously, I need to find a little bigger and little longer #6 X 1/2" stainless screw to fix up the buggered C camera pictured above! :emoji_wink:
Thank you. But, why not just place a dab of epoxy in stripped out plastic?
 
Thank you. But, why not just place a dab of epoxy in stripped out plastic?
Since that tiny screw seems to me to be the designed weak point (break-away point) I would prefer to beef it up some with a larger diameter and longer screw for better security.
 
Video microphone is behind those holes on the G cams. I don't believe the J cams have a microphone.
Got it, thanks!
 
I have 2 Cell Home units one works fine when doing the cell test it hooks up to cell signal with a success reading the first time. The other one will not hookup at the same location no matter how many times the cell test is tried at that location. It will hookup at locations where there is very strong cell signal. I sent it back to Cuddeback they tested it said it worked fine. They put the newest firmware in it. When I got it back I took it to the location where the other unit has been at working for over 3 months. It would not hookup tried several times. The other cell unit was dead, put new batteries in it and it hooked up the first time like always. Put it back up and called CS. They said i should get different antennas so it will pick up more cell signal. They emailed a site to get better antennas. $36 bucks latter getting antennas to do what the other cell unit with the standard factory antennas does I HOPE.
 
just snagged 4 cuddelink J's and a G cell tower unit off a classifieds at a pretty good rate. Ready for fall to get em hung.
 
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