Bluehill 2025

[Dantana]

Ryan posted on FB that select trees are now on sale for $20. The prices still reflect the original pricing until you add them to cart then they update to $20. It does look like there is a 4 tree minimum. Unfortunately, $56 in shipping for me will keep me from ordering any more.

 

[TWalter91]

It's definitely tempting to put another order in... But man I have already had my trees in the ground for almost 6 weeks now. It's a bit late for me to plant trees not unless I baby them. Great deal though!

 

[Derek Reese 29]

You guys are all a bad influence..but I’m not buying 4 more trees this year..I would probably find myself single if I did so…

 

[rogersb]

I ran over to his place this weekend and grabbed 5 sweet advent pear trees. I got one in the ground and the rest are in pots. I'll get spots ready for them this summer and get them in the ground in the fall.

 

[goatman]

I ordered 12 yesterday. Half I hope will be in the ground. The other half I will pot and water this summer for fall planting. Ryan told me that you can get about 15 trees to a box. Reduce shipping per tree.

 

[GoldenTriangleIL]

I also felt compelled to add some more trees to Orchard. Trailman, Turning Point, Callaway, Sweet November, Advent and a Winter Pear. Any advice/tips for planting this "late"?

 

[Native Hunter]

I also felt compelled to add some more trees to Orchard. Trailman, Turning Point, Callaway, Sweet November, Advent and a Winter Pear. Any advice/tips for planting this "late"?

I have two tips:

1. Give attention to watering sufficiently as summer goes on, but not overwatering.

2. I have sometimes put a shading device on top of the cage to limit the amount of direct midday sun until the tree has time to establish its root system. This would only be for the first year and probably not needed except during extreme summer heat. Something as simple as a garbage bag duct taped to the top of the cage will work. Punch a few small holes in the plastic to let the water go through.

 

[buckdeer1]

So this seems as good as anyplace to ask your thoughts. 2 years ago I planted a new 34 tree orchard.I purchased trees from 5 different nurseries and the first year I lost 1 tree. I didn't think alot about it as still figured good success ratio. Now I have 5 more that looked bad and I contacted the nursery and they told me to cut all the dying limbs off and if they die they will replace next year. All the sick ones are from the same nursery. Most of the symptoms look like severe cases of CAR. These trees are supposed to be resistant.

 

[Native Hunter]

So this seems as good as anyplace to ask your thoughts. 2 years ago I planted a new 34 tree orchard.I purchased trees from 5 different nurseries and the first year I lost 1 tree. I didn't think alot about it as still figured good success ratio. Now I have 5 more that looked bad and I contacted the nursery and they told me to cut all the dying limbs off and if they die they will replace next year. All the sick ones are from the same nursery. Most of the symptoms look like severe cases of CAR. These trees are supposed to be resistant.

Dead limbs doesn’t sound like CAR - that sounds more like fireblight. With CAR the leaves will be affected, and in some severe instances the leaves will completely deteriorate and the tree will grow a new set of leaves before the end of the year.

Send me a PM with the names of some of the varieties most affected and pictures of the problem if you have any.

 

[goatman]

^ What Native Hunter said.

 

[buckdeer1]

I know I have a couple other pear trees that get fire blight but they are quite a ways from these.I showed to Chris and he thinks fire blight and CAR. Just shows be careful who you buy from.Maybe these brown limbs will turn black. So whats the common thing to do cut down all trees that get fire blight?

 

[Bowsnbucks]

I know I have a couple other pear trees that get fire blight but they are quite a ways from these.I showed to Chris and he thinks fire blight and CAR. Just shows be careful who you buy from.Maybe these brown limbs will turn black. So whats the common thing to do cut down all trees that get fire blight?

I think it depends on how badly a tree gets FB, and what effect it has on a particular variety. Some gents on here have said their apple or pear trees (of certain varieties) get FB, but not bad enough to kill the tree, or the fruit crop. It can also depend on how wet/windy/cold it gets in a particular spring season, as to if/ how bad a FB outbreak occurs. Wet, windy weather seems to hammer blossoms, which are the usual entry points of FB. We used to have a Bradford ornamental pear in our yard that would get FB, but it would only strike the newest, tender branch tips, and it didn't effect the fruit amount, or kill that tree. It would be worse in windy, wet springs - other years, not so much. I cut that Bradford pear down not because of FB damage, but because it outgrew its location.

I f a tree is cut down due to FB, all parts of that tree should be burned to avoid spreading the bacterial pathogen that causes FB.

Maybe Native Hunter or other gents with more FB knowledge /experience will jump in here.

 

[Native Hunter]

I know I have a couple other pear trees that get fire blight but they are quite a ways from these.I showed to Chris and he thinks fire blight and CAR. Just shows be careful who you buy from.Maybe these brown limbs will turn black. So whats the common thing to do cut down all trees that get fire blight?

If they are still fairly young, you can topwork them to a more resistant variety. But, if they are on B118 rootstock, I wouldn't even waste my time doing that - just cut them down and burn them.

Actually, I doubt that burning them really does much to prevent future infections. In areas prone to FB, it is going to be present regardless of what you do. Unless you are running a commercial orchard and spraying, the best thing to do is to plant FB resistant trees. You will probably still see it even on those, but they will not be affected to a great extent. I even saw a couple of limbs with FB on Liberty this spring, but I'm not worried about it and won't do anything. It won't hurt the tree, and I will get fruit from the unaffected limbs.

Tip - There is probably no variety 100% immune to FB, but on resistant varieties the infection will likely not go into 2 year old wood, and generally fewer limbs with new growth will be affected. Heavy fertilization stimulating rapid new growth will cause FB to be worse in years when it flares up.

Best wishes

 

[buckdeer1]

my main ones affected are sheepnose and grayghost

 

[bigboreblr]

Fireblight can be handled sonwhat with spraying and openibg up tree to more light and air. Think copper can handle it. Bonide copper works for me on pears for fireblight.

Libeety, enterprise, freedom, sundance, and galaria are good replacements.

 

[homerj]

Copper is better than nothing for FB, but it's pretty weak. Streptomycin every few days is about the only real solution.

 

[Bowsnbucks]

If they are still fairly young, you can topwork them to a more resistant variety. But, if they are on B118 rootstock, I wouldn't even waste my time doing that - just cut them down and burn them.

Actually, I doubt that burning them really does much to prevent future infections. In areas prone to FB, it is going to be present regardless of what you do. Unless you are running a commercial orchard and spraying, the best thing to do is to plant FB resistant trees. You will probably still see it even on those, but they will not be affected to a great extent. I even saw a couple of limbs with FB on Liberty this spring, but I'm not worried about it and won't do anything. It won't hurt the tree, and I will get fruit from the unaffected limbs.

Tip - There is probably no variety 100% immune to FB, but on resistant varieties the infection will likely not go into 2 year old wood, and generally fewer limbs with new growth will be affected. Heavy fertilization stimulating rapid new growth will cause FB to be worse in years when it flares up.

Best wishes

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