Ben, that sure is a lot of trees! Would love to see what it turned into. That would probably cost a fortune now. I'm sure it's been rewarding looking back.We've planted over 5000 evergreens by hand using a dibble bar in both NW WI and SE MN using DNR nursery bare root trees. I've planted a mix of white pine, red pine and white spruce and all did really well. The white spruce start out slow, but after 18 years they are the same size as the white pines and red pines that start out faster. 18"+ year growth average is common for all of the trees and that can increase in wet years. The pines eventually lose their lower branches and aren't as effective as a visual screen or as small game cover. I'm sure they will make great turkey roosting in 40 years, but that is a long time to wait.
My oldest plantings are now almost 18 years old, and the white spruce still have their needles on their lower limbs wherever they are in full sun. If your deer numbers are high, they will likely browse the pines in winter - the deer really liked both red and white pines in both of my places. The white spruce were never touched though. As mentioned, the bucks really like to rub pines and spruce, but I had far fewer issues with spruce because they tend to have more branches at the base. The spruce will usually survive rubbing and send up a new central leader if the main leader is destroyed, but it is irritating to lose a few years of growth.
My largest plantings were as a visual screen around my fields and those trees were planted and left to fend for themselves with no cages, mulch or fertilizer. I'd guess my survival rate was 95%+. In SE MN, the deer numbers are higher and I'll occasionally use a cage to protect a few trees that I really want to protect.
I planted a few hundred white spruce last spring in established sod and they did really well with no after planting care or fertilizer. I'd estimate the survival rate was over 90%.
I'd recommend taking lots of pictures before and during the planting process since it is always nice to be able to look back at the old pictures years down the road.
No sense in beatin' a dead horse! I'm taking the advice. Thanks man! I am a little nervous about spray drift from the big crop field border. I'm hoping about 16' from the property line is safe.It's been said here 100 times, but you get what you pay for with trees. For every guy who have had mass tree planting success, 10 or more have failed.
Your best bang for your buck IMO is to buy less bigger trees (versus more smaller trees) and pay for their care and do it once. If you do that every year, you'll likely have the quickest and best results.
No sense in beatin' a dead horse! I'm taking the advice. Thanks man! I am a little nervous about spray drift from the big crop field border. I'm hoping about 16' from the property line is safe.
The tree prices were pretty cheap when we first started planting them in 2007 - I think they were only around $0.15 per tree if you bought 1000 of one size and species. I've had good luck planting the 2 and 3 year old bare root trees that are up to a foot tall (not counting the root size). Trees larger than that are a big pain to plant and I avoid them if possible. One year I bought some cottonwood trees, and their roots were huge and planting them was not fun.Ben, that sure is a lot of trees! Would love to see what it turned into. That would probably cost a fortune now. I'm sure it's been rewarding looking back.
How big of a bare root do you think you can get away with using a dibble bar to plant? I'm just trying to get the best trees I can afford and get as many in the ground as possible because of lack of cover. I hate the idea of having to get a guy out to run the auger on the tractor but if getting a bigger tree in the ground is worth the extra planting time, I suppose I need to do just that.
I lost 500 trees when the farmer renting my field turned around in my young tree rows with his sprayer running. After that, I added steel fenceposts to mark the tree boundary and I also made some signs that said trees planted, no spray.No sense in beatin' a dead horse! I'm taking the advice. Thanks man! I am a little nervous about spray drift from the big crop field border. I'm hoping about 16' from the property line is safe.
Thanks guys! I just got off the phone with the director of the local swcd. He said he'd cut me break on the Norways @ $2.30 a piece if I order over 100. They're 4yr. transplants up to 30" and much too big for a dibble bar. He recommended a post hole digger. Looks like I'm gonna have my work cut out for me...
That had to have made you absolutely sick!I lost 500 trees when the farmer renting my field turned around in my young tree rows with his sprayer running. After that, I added steel fenceposts to mark the tree boundary and I also made some signs that said trees planted, no spray.
I was looking at that or Harbor freight. I do like that I could get this in tight spots. Do you have any experience with the 3pt mounted ones?If you can swing it, I would recommend and Earthquake Auger with either a 6" or 8" drill head. For the 4 yr tn's this will allow you to get the depth and width of hole for spreading the roots out. It's about $300 and will same you alot of time and your back/shoulders.
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I thought about it but that'll catch spray for sure. I'm thinking of just making that a mowed path that I can use to get around and work without driving through cover. Then if it does get some overspray, no biggie.Grow switch grass between the farmer field and your trees.
That would be the last time that dude stepped foot on my land.I lost 500 trees when the farmer renting my field turned around in my young tree rows with his sprayer running. After that, I added steel fenceposts to mark the tree boundary and I also made some signs that said trees planted, no spray.
I wasn't very happy, but I was lucky that only one section of trees was killed. It was the local co-op that the farmer contracted to do the spraying, so my renter wasn't very happy about the situation either.That had to have made you absolutely sick!