• If you are posting pictures, and they aren't posting in the correct orientation, please flush your browser cache and try again.

    Edge
    Safari/iOS
    Chrome

Trail Blazing Experiences

I'm talking about a simple trail…. Something to use walk quietly around the property border. Wide enough for a 4 wheeler. Clear enough so a person isn’t tripping over roots and 2 inch stumps. I figured the box blade and shanks would be a good option to pull out the roots and 2-3 inch stumps after clearing a bit with the mower.
Save the wear and tear on your equipment and your time. Hire a mulcher. The guy that did mine had a mulcher that was 6 feet wide. He was a good operator and did two small plots and about 300 yards of trail. All done in one day and everything flat and level with nothing to trip on. Total cost was under $2500.
 
I'm talking about a simple trail…. Something to use walk quietly around the property border. Wide enough for a 4 wheeler. Clear enough so a person isn’t tripping over roots and 2 inch stumps. I figured the box blade and shanks would be a good option to pull out the roots and 2-3 inch stumps after clearing a bit with the mower.
I had about three miles of trail like that cleared with a mulcher. Most of it was in ground with few rocks and no stumps at all remained after mulching - just chips. No brush to contend with after clearing. About a 1/4 mile was upland with some rock and there were half a dozen 3” tall stumps I had to remove with a chainsaw afterwards.

This is representative of my trails. Looked like this about 18 months after mulcher went through. I marked the trails where nothing bigger than about 6” dbh was removed

Well, wont do that - none of the icons highlighted so I cant add picture
 
IMG_5872.jpeg

This is what my mulched trails look like after 18 months
 
Interested in hearing how some of you in thick woods handle cutting new trails. We would like to build a perimeter trail on the property which will necessitate blazing through some thick stuff. We’ve done a little chainsaw work which is slow and tedious to make sure we aren’t leaving punji sticks along the path.

We have:

A ‘70s Massey Ferguson 180 (diesel) with the Woods-DuAl bucket on front.

A King Kutter rotary brush mower.

A King Kutter box blade with the shanks.

Am I crazy thinking we could just blaze a trail with the bucket and box blade?

The mower is OK, but still leaves behind all the tripping hazards to be cleaned up.

I’m all ears!
I’ve tried it all. Dozer. Mulcher if your pockets are deeper and there is absolutely zero water management (grading) to do. This is assuming that it’s more than a few hundred yards. If a small job, maybe brute forcing it with hand tools and a tractor is your best bet.
 
Last edited:
I'm talking about a simple trail…. Something to use walk quietly around the property border. Wide enough for a 4 wheeler. Clear enough so a person isn’t tripping over roots and 2 inch stumps. I figured the box blade and shanks would be a good option to pull out the roots and 2-3 inch stumps after clearing a bit with the mower.
It can be done like that. But man it will be tough. A forestry mulcher would do that trail in about an hour.
 
My main trail already previously completed I weed Wacked it this year and blew out all the leaves already. Talk about stealth quiet Plenty wide for side by side. Even brought in gravel for low areas off a trailer l. Keeps ticks away. I may install a culvert in a low area. Of course I use shovel and pick axe.
 
I'm talking about a simple trail…. Something to use walk quietly around the property border. Wide enough for a 4 wheeler. Clear enough so a person isn’t tripping over roots and 2 inch stumps. I figured the box blade and shanks would be a good option to pull out the roots and 2-3 inch stumps after clearing a bit with the mower.
First, you’re going to want to start way wider than your minimum width. Brush on the sides is going by to creep and lean into your trail relentlessly. You need 12’ clear width at ground level to have 2’ of clear width at eye level.

Second, I don’t think you’re going to have much success using rippers on your box blade to uproot saplings. Those roots go down at least 6”. Ripping at 6” of depth may not even be possible for your tractor. Even if it is, you’ll be left with an incredibly rough ground surface.
 
Very nice!

View attachment 86298
This is the sort of stuff we’re looking at.
Not sure how I missed the pic. You aren’t ripping many of those up with a box blade. What is working in your favor is that they’re really tall. I’m guessing it’s a pretty closed canopy, so you won’t have to deal with the encroachment into your trail that I mentioned earlier. However this also makes felling difficult. Crowns are gonna be tangled. If it’s more than a few hundred yards, I’m still saying dozer.
 
I don't have a couple thousand dollars to spend on a 4-wheeler path. I do have years of chainsaw experience.

I realize that there are operators who do a good job with a forestry mulcher, but I've never found one in VT. I've been hired a number of times to clean up after a forestry mulcher was used to "clear" an area. What a mess. Had to use a saw and a fire to get it back in shape. Like I said, I know they can work miracles, but I've never seen it in person.
 
I don't have a couple thousand dollars to spend on a 4-wheeler path. I do have years of chainsaw experience.

I realize that there are operators who do a good job with a forestry mulcher, but I've never found one in VT. I've been hired a number of times to clean up after a forestry mulcher was used to "clear" an area. What a mess. Had to use a saw and a fire to get it back in shape. Like I said, I know they can work miracles, but I've never seen it in person.
I can’t envision what an experienced sawyer might clean up from a mulching job. Good chainsawers are the scalpel. Mulchers are a Murray lawnmower.
 
IMG_6022.jpegIMG_6020.jpeg

This is a mulching job I had done on a 40’ wide by mile long fence right of way. Mostly 2” to 10” green ash. Any tree 6” or larger, I had him push the trunk to the side to cut into firewood or lumber and mulch the tops and limbs. This was one of the thicker areas. On This amount of chips, vegetation was slow to re-establish, but a dozer or track hoe would have left a thousand root holes that would have been soft - maybe forever - they are soft 12 yrs later, and an unmanageable amount of
Debris piles to deal with. Mulcher is running over a tree top in pictures
 
View attachment 86353View attachment 86354

This is a mulching job I had done on a 40’ wide by mile long fence right of way. Mostly 2” to 10” green ash. Any tree 6” or larger, I had him push the trunk to the side to cut into firewood or lumber and mulch the tops and limbs. This was one of the thicker areas. On This amount of chips, vegetation was slow to re-establish, but a dozer or track hoe would have left a thousand root holes that would have been soft - maybe forever - they are soft 12 yrs later, and an unmanageable amount of
Debris piles to deal with. Mulcher is running over a tree top in pictures
It’s a good question to ask. Around here a mulcher is 2-3x the cost of a dozer. Dozers can easily make up the cost difference by working those stump holes. Maybe not everywhere.

Stump holes are also remedied with a box blade and a little time.
 
Back
Top