So are you mostly frustrated with your summer plots and not this years fall plots?I thought the soil looked pretty good. I have not turned this dirt in 6 years. It helps that we have had 6” of rain since August 19th. I do think I have a bit of surface compaction in the newly forming root zone. You can feel the clay in the damp soil and when I plant trees in the spring it’s a train wreck.
I also think I have a residue management problem. Something isn’t right though I have a lot of bug pressure and I have read or saw on a video several times that insect cannot attack healthy plants. That’s not the case with my plants they get hit pretty hard.
Sorry gents my account was locked out for some reason I had to change emails addresses..Rit, I think you’re just messing with us now! I would hold the course.
That’s a good summary. My summer plots have been mostly terrible and in turn my fall plots have been mostly underwhelming.So are you mostly frustrated with your summer plots and not this years fall plots?
Soil looks good to my uneducated eye. The recent moisture should have you sitting pretty good on fall plots?
I couldn’t agree anymore. I am confused at what is happening and why things aren’t working better.I’m more confused now than I was at Day one of this post.
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I was ready to rototill up my field until I dug a few holes. I do get standing water in spots if we get enough rain. The Johnson grass issue is new this year. I also think the residue management is a problem. I only have a rotary cutter and no way to manage everything I cut down.Your soil structure looks great. I wonder if you're getting inhibition from the johnson grass residue?
Maybe try a different mower (like a flail, sickle, or disc mower) that can get down to an inch or two to get a handle on that grass and keep it short (like mow once a week) from spring greenup all the way to fall planting to keep that residue from building up and to starve those perennial roots. Then try getting a kill and flip it into a wet clay friendly blend like rye, white clover, flax, and chicory. I may even throw in some japanese millet if it's still wet when you plant.I was ready to rototill up my field until I dug a few holes. I do get standing water in spots if we get enough rain. The Johnson grass issue is new this year. I also think the residue management is a problem. I only have a rotary cutter and no way to manage everything I cut down.
I’m not sure if it’s my rotary cutter or all rotary cutters but the thick residue it windrows all to one side is an issue to drill into and for more obvious reasons inhibits seed growth. If I choose to spray it doesn’t allow me to kill anything underneath. I need to take a different approach. This fall everything was 4-6’ tall so I figured I needed to mow before I sprayed.
I couldn’t agree anymore. I am confused at what is happening and why things aren’t working better.
I have in the past but didn’t as much as I should have this time.Also have you tried mowing a second pass perpendicular to the first to mulch up thatch more and remove windrows?
Not for some years and I really need to do another. I should have started there before I go crying on a forum.Have you had soil tests done recently? I just did one on mine and found that many of my fields were low on phosphorous which is important for nutrient & water intake.
I’d love to buy another mower but the mortgage end is well within sight on this farm and I have a huge desire to buy another piece of ground.Maybe try a different mower (like a flail, sickle, or disc mower) that can get down to an inch or two to get a handle on that grass and keep it short (like mow once a week) from spring greenup all the way to fall planting to keep that residue from building up and to starve those perennial roots. Then try getting a kill and flip it into a wet clay friendly blend like rye, white clover, flax, and chicory. I may even throw in some japanese millet if it's still wet when you plant.
That's gonna be a lot of mowing, but absent a better suggestion, that's what I'd try.
You will get zero argument from me and possibly none at all from anyone else. All of my TNM plots would lag behind for a bit but the end result was usually a pretty good plot. Not always though. When I used a tiller I more times than not if I had acceptable levels of rain I had a really good plot that was a huge draw. I am just not getting the desired results using a drill which is perplexing to me. I seem to have more weeds than I did when I was disturbing the soil.