Trail Blazing Experiences

[Walleyeguy13]

Interested in hearing how some of you in thick woods handle cutting new trails. We would like to build a perimeter trail on the property which will necessitate blazing through some thick stuff. We’ve done a little chainsaw work which is slow and tedious to make sure we aren’t leaving punji sticks along the path.

We have:

A ‘70s Massey Ferguson 180 (diesel) with the Woods-DuAl bucket on front.

A King Kutter rotary brush mower.

A King Kutter box blade with the shanks.

Am I crazy thinking we could just blaze a trail with the bucket and box blade?

The mower is OK, but still leaves behind all the tripping hazards to be cleaned up.

I’m all ears!

 

[Telemark]

I don't have experience, but I think I would mow it first. Then the brush is chopped up into little pieces, which the box blade would handle better than shrubs and small trees.

 

[SwampCat]

I would probably hire a mulcher

 

[Walleyeguy13]

I would probably hire a mulcher

Thinking about it. But where’s the fun in that? ;)

 

[SwampCat]

Thinking about it. But where’s the fun in that? ;)

Getting it done in an expedient manner. You probably have plenty else to do.

 

[TreeDaddy]

I would probably hire a mulcher

This^^^^^. you won't regret it

bill

 

[Walleyeguy13]

This^^^^^. you won't regret it

bill

I was warned that you guys would try to spend my money for me.

 

[bigboreblr]

Many surprise stumps in there? Just need one bad one to lip the tractor.

What size are we talking here. acres and brush size.

Not breaking your tractor with a tire puncture, a rollover, or breaking your 3 point being too rough on the box blade has a price......

IF you can push them down and mow, keep doing that.

 

[Walleyeguy13]

Many surprise stumps in there? Just need one bad one to lip the tractor.

What size are we talking here.

Shouldn't be, but we'd walk it, clear big stuff and mark our path ahead of time. I think we will focus on stuff less than 3 inches in diameter.

 

[Feelslikefar.]

I made a bit of trail this spring, but I didn't need it to be straight, so I let the trees tell me where it was.
"The path of least chainsawing"

 

[The Fishman]

"The path of least chainsawing"

This is the answer assuming that you only need to get to point B from point A and not necessarily in a straight line. This also assumes that you only need an 8 - 10 foot wide trail. I have done it with a chainsaw and also a battery powered reciprocating saw. Just cut everything over 3" diameter level as close as you can to the ground. Make sure to stump treat everything with a 20-25% concentration of glyphosate so it doesn't grow back. Just drop everything where it falls and use the tractor bucket to move it off the trail. Run the mower over anything under 3". You don't mention how long the trail will be, but remember that you don't have to do it all in one day. Make sure you have some type of guard to protect the tractor grill and radiator.

 

[Walleyeguy13]

I made a bit of trail this spring, but I didn't need it to be straight, so I let the trees tell me where it was.
"The path of least chainsawing"

This is the answer assuming that you only need to get to point B from point A and not necessarily in a straight line. This also assumes that you only need an 8 - 10 foot wide trail. I have done it with a chainsaw and also a battery powered reciprocating saw. Just cut everything over 3" diameter level as close as you can to the ground. Make sure to stump treat everything with a 20-25% concentration of glyphosate so it doesn't grow back. Just drop everything where it falls and use the tractor bucket to move it off the trail. Run the mower over anything under 3". You don't mention how long the trail will be, but remember that you don't have to do it all in one day. Make sure you have some type of guard to protect the tractor grill and radiator.

We need way less than 8-10 feet. Enough for the 4 wheeler really. I’d guess about a half mile of trail that can (and should) wind a bit. The purpose is to go around the east side of the property to allow stand access without disturbing bedding areas on the inside.

 

[Lee Haakenson]

I would probably hire a mulcher

After the many back breaking trails I have put in with nothing but a saw, I agree this is the route to go!

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[SD51555]

Get a 5-6 ton excavator with a push blade and bucket thumb on it. Have a second guy there to run a chainsaw. That machine can handle big trees, move the slash where you want it, stack it to burn, throw it in a low spot and use it for fill, fix holes, smooth it out.

In my area, $2500 will get you a machine delivered and fueled for 40 hours work. Mulcher can’t grab stuff, dig, or smooth your trail. If you’re gonna use these trails for 10-40 years, do it right.


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[SD51555]

Acme in Bemidji will bring you a Kubota KX057.


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[SwampCat]

I have a lot of low ground. Digging a stump in a trail will leave you a low, wet spot forever. Fine on upland. I cant build a road up in my bottom ground, in a flowage easement

 

[bigboreblr]

go 2 or 3 paths wide if possible. A spot or two, especially at intersection, make an extra dead end path or two like 100 yard out. Great Treestand spots. Maybe even clearance cut around some important trees like a larger oaks on the southern side more.

Many trails have been made with renting a bulldozer too. Might be $400 a day or so. sometimes mulchers on skid steers can be rented too.

Make sure that brushhog gearbox is full of oil and clean n clear. Cover in stuff it can not cool well. Can even put a small rag and hang a soda bottile with a small hose to drip cool the box off if needed.