White Birch Farm
5 year old buck +
This was swampy, AO, MFR infested land when I bought the farm. I have created about a mile’s worth of fruit tree planting opportunities where none previously existed by ditching and berming in this fashion.
Swampy, AO, MFR infested land.
- Thread starter White Birch Farm
- Start date
j-bird
Moderator
In the post it looks like you have graded slopes away from the fruit trees with the trees being at the high point and then the ditches collecting and draining the excess water away....Its difficult to really tell in the pic...but is what it looks like. Obviously the AO and MFR are at least not in this pic. What sort of condition is the top soil in? Typically the issue with graded land is that it removes the top soil and thus makes growing other more desirable plants more difficult due to a lack of organic matter in the remaining soil. Have you found that to be the case? Do you have issues with the AO or MFR popping back up to seed in the seed bank? Are you working mostly with a sandy type soil or something with a heavier clay content? Many folks have areas with too much water and thus limits our choices. Your practice here may help some of us work with a similar drainage problem,
White Birch Farm
5 year old buck +
I use a three bottom plow to break a furrow. Depending on the slope of the land (for example where the ditch runs in the direction of a single slope) you can break it left and right leaving a dead furrow in the middle creating a ditch. However, in many cases you wont want to berm dirt into a field as that will create drainage issues on the edge of that field. So, in that case, using a straight blade and the plow I simply repeatedly use the plow to ditch and move dirt in the direction of the future berm and use the straight blade to smooth and firm the berm as I go. Below is an example of where I did in a field where the slope both runs with the ditch and off the edge of the field.
mikmaze
5 year old buck +
Looking amazing Jeff, you have taken that place to another level. Never met a guy that asked question, listened to answers, and then went beyond, like you. True testament to what can be done with time, and drive. taking every advantage of resources and programs available, and always looking for more.
White Birch Farm
5 year old buck +
Thanks Mike!
White Birch Farm
5 year old buck +
Here is another example. First pic is when I began. The second is the following spring when I planted.
Much of this area held standing water when wet before I started. Now, I have Apples, Pears, Persimmons and Chestnuts growing succesfully there.
Much of this area held standing water when wet before I started. Now, I have Apples, Pears, Persimmons and Chestnuts growing succesfully there.
Apple Junkie
5 year old buck +
This is really impressive work. You probably already gave this some thought, but some rootstocks do better with wet feet than other. For example, P.18, B.118, and Emla 111 reportedly tolerate damp conditions well. M.111 on the other hand prefers well drained soil. I can see the trees on the edge of your existing tree line are chasing the sun and leaning slightly toward the open field. Your newly planted tree get plenty sun, but they will likely do the same. I would love to see how this project progress over the next several years… it’s really interesting what you’ve done so far. Thanks for sharing your work here.
White Birch Farm
5 year old buck +
Thanks Apple Junkie. Most of my land is not really terribly “wet” like a true wetlands. However, it is flat and has a shallow fragipan from as little as a few inches to a foot or two deep throughout. As a result, any areas where water can not drain will pond with any major rain event and will hold water most of the winter and spring. These methods virtually eliminate those problems across big portions of my land.
I have a number of apple trees on P18 and B118 in areas where it was impractical to do this on a large scale. All are doing well. I simply chose the highest spots possible, even if they were only a few inches above the surrounding area. Where it appeared almost always wet, I went with P18 and small mounds of shoveled dirt just so water doesn't sit next to the crowns. Those same areas already had dozens of wild crabapples as well. Below is one.
White Birch Farm
5 year old buck +
Got 2.5” of rain one day this week, which was great for aging this ground quickly. I wasnt happy with the ratio of the size and height of the ditch relative to the berm on the low end. So, I got in there to address it again. It wasnt easy...but I get it set up to settle in again with another rain today. 
How far off the tree line did you choose to plant your fruit trees and is that the Northeast tree line...I'm considering lining my one large Northeast line food plot and staying close to the tree line and thought persimmon would make the best choice since it's growth is more upright and would have best chance of producing fruit on the tree line side..shade...north...pear second and put apples in 4 sided sun
White Birch Farm
5 year old buck +
That row runs north/south and will get direct light from sunup until late in the afternoon. The 10 acre area to the west was a heavy seed tree cut this fall. So, they will have plenty of light. Either way, I have about 200 fruit and nut trees on the property, not including oaks, so I never worry about finding perfection in any single spot. For feeding wildlife it is about successfully growing huge numbers, not worrying about having a half dozen or even a dozen perfectly located trees.
