Stump shredder project

Stumping is one of the hardest things you can do to a saw. It's murder on it's clutch, the bar, the chain, and the crank.

Had the pillow block not broken across the mounting ears (through the sides of the bolt slots), this stump would've been gone after 2 passes. There's no evidence of any wear on the teeth.

I'm going to replace the pillow blocks with bushing blocks like I should've done from the start, probably put a flow control in the sweep cylinder, tighten the clutch, and get back to destroying stumps. :)
If it's not necessary for your purposes, then let them high. I haven't noticed any extra wear on my saws cutting stumps lower, but we're talking completely different applications. Your build and talents are supremely impressive, BTW.
 
99.8% of my trees are hardwoods. 75% of them are the hard/harder variety of hardwoods. Getting down into a ground level root flare on a maple is a much more difficult cut than taking it off 8" above the dirt. The grain starts going every which way because of the root fibers, and it's not a clean cross cut or rip cut - you're cutting every direction, and those fibers are strong, since they're what held the tree up. Far more minerals are drawn up from the soil into that first little section above the ground level too. It's what carbide teeth were made for.

This stump is only about 16". Sure, I could've cut it shorter, but with the grinder it's faster to just mow it off. It takes more time to line up the tractor on the stump than it did to do the removal you're seeing pictures of.

I don't have a Husqvarna sticker on the clutch cover of my 357xp because of stumping on my road. It got too hot for the adhesive and fell off. That's part of why I built the grinder. :)

Thank you for the kind words.
 
Saw chain is cheaper than grinder teeth. Just saying.
 
A crank isn't.
 
Most of my pines were sheared off a few inches above the ground. The grinding on those is sweet. High hardwood stumps are a whole 'mother ballgame for me.....and I hate high, hardwood stumps. Take far longer for my grinder. I usually chain saw the stump low to the ground.

Hopefully your machine will work well with them. It sure looks good on that early trial. Looks like a real time saver if it works on those.
 
Once I get the clutch adjusted right, this thing will obliterate hardwood. The numbers work out around 2000 in-lbs low for the torque setting on the clutch as-delivered (so about 20% under where it should be) vs what I was putting to it through the PTO. The Greenteeth are awesome at sheering the stump and show no wear at all from what was done, but I wasn't quite into the dirt yet, so that's not really saying much.

Today's project, along with remaking the pillow blocks in steel, is to determine what kind of flow control to go with for the swing cylinder. If I had one sided cutting (like Woods), the regulators I have now would be ideal, but I have cutting in both directions, so I need something that doesn't have the unrestricted flow to one direction. The fixed orifice offerings that FF has might be ok, but I don't know yet.
 
Well, I wrestled the alligator and got the new bushing blocks in (teflon bushings I turned from bar stock). Nearly drowned in sweat doing it, and my nylock nuts will need to be swapped out for some blue loctite, but she's done fighting me today.

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^ Hard to tell from the pics.....but.....do you think that is a stronger arangement than what you had?
 
^ Hard to tell from the pics.....but.....do you think that is a stronger arangement than what you had?
Yeah was wondering the same thing. But dang, love the way your welding looks in your pics. Going to make sure I never post pics of the the stuff I cobble together but keep to just descriptions....
 
1.25x.125" wall square tube with 1.5" .125" wall by 1.25" wide round tubing with teflon bushing inside it is much stronger than .5x.25 (x2) cast iron ears - which is what broke on the pillow block.
 
There's probably more material in my tubing than your Woods pivots, and mine have better geometry.
 
Its the 1/8 wall that yeah ain't gonna break but might give a little. For shock loading, you're right the cast is gonna bust first.
 
Yeah was wondering the same thing. But dang, love the way your welding looks in your pics. Going to make sure I never post pics of the the stuff I cobble together but keep to just descriptions....

I didn't strike an arc once and end up with these welds. It's taken years of practice, and even now they're not always as pretty as I want them.

You can always grind down the ugly ones too. :p

And thanks for the kind words!
 
Its the 1/8 wall that yeah ain't gonna break but might give a little. For shock loading, you're right the cast is gonna bust first.

Fusible link comes to mind. ;) The cast just gave up too easily.
 
Looks good Jim. Should be a lot stronger than the original.
 
We'll find out tomorrow. :)
 
Be interesting to see what happens. Just remember....those cylinders are pretty big sizes.....and you got ALLOT of leverage on those joints. Not saying they won't work....cause I really don't know. They just look a bit "light" to me. The joints on my grinder are sloppy after much use and abuse.

Good luck Jim! I hope you grind 'em to oblivion. ;)
 
If that doesn't hold up you could go with machined billet bushings.
 
The idea is that these will fail before I bend one of the pins should it come to that.

I know my swing cylinder is capable of lifting the tractor and then some. It could rip the swivel bearings off as easily as the lift block broke were it pushed into something immobile. That's precisely why I didn't machine these out of big blocks of steel. The mounts are my wear parts. They just need to hold the cutter head from twisting and jumping.
 
My neck is really pissed at me tonight after wrestling the bushing blocks in (all 450# is offset from the center line). I've got foot spasms and hand spasms going and I finished up about 5 hours ago.

I've got a Parker 1/2" ball valve to slow my sweep with ($15 at Axman :D ), but I need a male/male nipple to install it.
 
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