Stubble Roller (Stalk chopper) vs Cultipacker / Crimper

[txbowman12]

Interested in your thoughts between these two implements. I've been kicking around the idea of getting the packermaxx cultipacker / crimper combo. But saw a company that makes stubble rollers within a couple of hours from me. These are typically used in rice fields to make holes for duck hunting, but I have to imagine it would do a decent job on mature rye / goatweed.

Stubble Roller Sml

www.hughesmfg.net

I'm a little concerned about the packermaxx's longevity in my fields. We have a fair amount of hogs that like to root around and I think might bend the crimper blades. The stubble roller seems like it would put more weight on the crimp, as only two blades have the whole 400-500lb weight on them at once.

Don't have a drill, or plans on getting one, everything I do is with a UTV. My other option is a pull behind brush hog, but I like the idea of not having another motor.

 

[omicron1792]

I have a pull behind bush hog that’s been used once If you want to come get it

 

[yoderjac]

Well, I have not been able to talk myself into a crimper. While they are great for terminating cereal, they are less effective against lots of weeds. That means you need to use WR and terminate it at the right stage. That can be limiting in terms of what you plant and when you plant it.

I won't speak to the packermax specifically. I have looked at them but nut used them. I have a tractor so I bought an old farm cultipacker. You can get small ones for ATVs. I find it to be a very useful implement. More often than not, I find spraying to be more effective for weed control. I till very infrequently and lightly when I do. I find for throw & mow type applications, a cultipacker improves germination rates with my soil. This is even more true when we don't get a good rain after planting. It presses seed into the soil. It also puts an uneven surface on the soil that helps prevent run-off and let water sink in.

I would classify a crimper as a more special purpose implement. I like the idea of reduced herbicide use, but I often do things that would limit its effective use. I find a good cultipacker to be a regularly used implement.

 

[matinc]

Wow omicron did you get rid of your brush hog or is yard decoration now

 

[bigboreblr]

How many acres do you do? What kind of soil do you have. Are there rocks in the soil. Cultipacking sandy soil vs clay can be quite different. Are you going to use these implements in lieu of sraying.

How big is your property, do you have trails you need to maintain. I have a large water filled roller, a 4ft true agriculture cupltiacker with 16 inch cast iron wheels and a 2" shaft. I can add weight to it. Homemade. I also have a swisher 42" rough cut mower.

I question the life of those stubble chopper arms. I also question the packermaxx as well. Think the cultipacker would be ok, bot the crimper part. But, if you ruin the crimper, you still got a cultipacker.

There are several folks on here who have made concrete cultipackers. I have heavy clay at home and sand at camp. The extra weight and larger radius of the large wheels does alot better for me.

These guys can make you a good one likely.

ATV | Custom Cultipackers | Welder in Savannah, TN

Custom Cultipackers provides various cultivator services at affordable prices. Call us for roller-crimpers and aerator-pluggers in Savannah, TN and nearby areas.

www.custom-cultipackers.com

MY throw and mow is that. I have a 6x12 enclosed trailer I sleep in. MY ATV and one implement can fit in there, I maintain snowmobile trails too, as well as put rye in them. One thing I learned this year, dont mow too much. I did 3-4 passes to cut it well. There are spots that didn't come up. Got too thick.

Same thing with the mower. I have 2 blades as no shroud around them. It throws the cutting pretty evenly. I am surprised how tall a mess that thing can cut without stalling.

Single blase brush hogs don't cut evenly. Get something multiple blade. MY issues with the swisher 42". Needs a beefier frame, or maybe I abuse it too much. I did some weld reinforcing, so my problems are pretty much done. The briggs signel cylinder is splash lubricated. IT doesn't live a long life. Do not run it on steep areas. If buying one, find one with a kawasaki engine. My 11hp is original and still has rod knock. I found a new 13hp for only $500. Had it around years, 11hp still runs. I change the oil every other time I use it, about 6 hours. Think the kawasaki motor was $1600+. There's a 13hp chinese made yardman motor on ebay thats cast iron and prssured lubed for $450 or so. THe 13hp everything bolts on. Pull start, gas tank ,etc. Was much less hassle.

Avoid steep hills ad freqeunt oil changes a bit on the high level side, you'll be ok for a long time.

I bought the mower for $500, bought a new motor on standby for $500. And got some welding and fussing time on it. I'd probably do it again. Might put larger wheels on it. There a rocky spot I wish I had an extra inch or two on the snowmobile trail. I've beat the snot out of it and it's still kicking. Didn't even replace the blades or bearing either.


The 4 wheeled ones might need bigger wheels. Think those flail mower would work well.

I mow about 4 acres at home and about 25 acres at camp. Throw and mow is going to stay at camp. At home, I might go back to mowing monthly. I am on year 2 of rye rotation. I have an insane amount of voles near my apple trees from the unmowed field stuffed with seed heads. I will still throw rye in the fall, so deer have food. But will maintain it during the summer to a clover field.