Steel Flat roof on hunting shack

[farmhunter]

Hinge your roof on the front wall. Build it hanging vertical and hinge it up when it is all done - you can them build the back wall so that you have a pitch.

 

[Red Picqua]

Is it faster cutting everything at your 2* or my 5*...... Or do you mean you just bang her together......

I grew up building houses and I have certain requirements otherwise I can hear my old man in my head giving me some crap for doing a crappy job.


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yea.. me too as my dad was a carpenter. I am fairly decent, probably better than most. I see where your dad is coming from in a house. But in a deer blind you don't need an extreme pitch. I usually keep it at one bubble off level on the top. Which works out to be about an inch maybe a bit more. You don't need much! If you have ever hung gutters its always hung outside one bubble. Meaning the bubble on the level is outside touching the line. I do my drains the same way too.

I would not recommend MO's way. Sorry. To keep the consistency of each of those boards sounds good, but how do you fill in the gaps along the top plate? You would need a board planed from 1 3/4 to 3/4' to 3/4' to 3/8? which has me stumped on construction rough in lumber?? I know finished lumber to be of that dimension, but not standard rough in.

The method I described you can just run a top plate of a 2x6. I would recommended more 2x6's laying flat across the roof for support. Take your scag pieces of lumber and fill in the gaps in the front and the back.

One thing the ol' man would say to me.. Don't forget your corner boards. HAHAH Take a few 1x2's and tack them on the corners, to protect your seams. :)

great looking blind too!

 

[Red Picqua]

one thing to add.. i always add a bead of silicone on my tin roofs on the seams. Plus, I don't hit that rubber screw hard into the rafters. just compress it a little bit. And do I dab the screw heads with a touch of silicone. yes.. why.. my ol man would say.. it's a deer blind why not!

still chuckling on your dad saying is it faster to cut your 2 inches or my 5 inches HAHAH I can hear my ol' man saying the same thing.

 

[MoBuckChaser]

yea.. me too as my dad was a carpenter. I am fairly decent, probably better than most. I see where your dad is coming from in a house. But in a deer blind you don't need an extreme pitch. I usually keep it at one bubble off level on the top. Which works out to be about an inch maybe a bit more. You don't need much! If you have ever hung gutters its always hung outside one bubble. Meaning the bubble on the level is outside touching the line. I do my drains the same way too.

I would not recommend MO's way. Sorry. To keep the consistency of each of those boards sounds good, but how do you fill in the gaps along the top plate? You would need a board planed from 1 3/4 to 3/4' to 3/4' to 3/8? which has me stumped on construction rough in lumber?? I know finished lumber to be of that dimension, but not standard rough in.

The method I described you can just run a top plate of a 2x6. I would recommended more 2x6's laying flat across the roof for support. Take your scag pieces of lumber and fill in the gaps in the front and the back.

One thing the ol' man would say to me.. Don't forget your corner boards. HAHAH Take a few 1x2's and tack them on the corners, to protect your seams. :)

great looking blind too!

Fill in what gaps? You bend the tin over the two sides and let the tin stick out for a overhang on the top and bottom.

Pretty simple, well since I am a carpenter, it is!

 

[northernpotter]

roof should have a slight pitch to it, so water and snow melt runs off. 2x4 around the whole top and across the top with a piece of3/4 plywood with roofing tar paper followed with tin andcaulking