Reloading for the 280 Remington

At one time.....I would dump a charge into the scale pan.....and use that little spoon made by RCBS to add or remove a few grains of powder. The easiest method after getting a good setting on my powder measure......was to set the RCBS manual-spin powder trickle with the tube dropping into the scale pan.....and simply tap the tube with the spoon to add a few granules of powder.

Seemed that was about as quick as any method out there for stick powders. With ball powder......I could normally just set my (Redding or RCBS) powder measure......and after a few tweaks it would repeat to the 1/10 of a grain. I'd just check about every tenth load for QC......but it often would stay spot-on though loading of hundreds of rounds. I still prefer balance beam scales over the electronic stuff.....maybe it's just me and my adverse relationship with electronic stuff.

One ball powder that has been quite versatile for me was / is Hodgedon 380. I have used it in loads for my 22-250 on up to my 280 Remington (IIRC). Really easy to meter though a powder measure.
If I'm over charge I just lick my finger and pick up a few kernels with my finger tip.

Ball powder usually goes through a measure like sht through a tin horn. I use W748 for my 300 savage and 30-30 dumps great through my measure.
 
$1070 for an auto trickler? That's just nuts unless you're in the business of reloading. I do it for the enjoyment and satisfaction.

Just screwing around one time I pulled the motor out of an old cassette player and mounted it with a battery box and momentary push button switch. I mounted a pulley from the cassette player to my trickler and voila had my own motorized trickler. Quit using it cause it was easier to spin the trickler with my finger. Never have to worry about my finger being dead or bluetooth not working either.

Overkill for most applications definitely. I mostly just posted it because @Foggy47 mentioned preferring the beams over the electronic stuff but the electronic stuff has been getting really good (albeit expensive)! Having something that is both fast and more precise than you need is a nicety. I don't enjoy reloading, I'd much rather be shooting.
 
The autotricklers have been the cats ass for a while. Dispenses charges to within a kernal quite a bit faster than my RCBS chargemaster gets em to within 3 or 4 kernals with an occasional overthrow.

But this new one might steal the show

I've never had a manual powder thrower as i started with a chargemaster but might get a harrells precision to throw ball powder for less than top precision 223 ammo pretty soon here.
I've got a Harrels powder measure down here in OZ.....along with other benchrest equipment. I do not use that stuff and had planned to sell it. If you interested we should talk. I used it mostly for Bench Rest Competition a few years back. Nice measure for sure. Also have a Harrels Press. Maybe some other goodies of interest.
 
The autotricklers have been the cats ass for a while. Dispenses charges to within a kernal quite a bit faster than my RCBS chargemaster gets em to within 3 or 4 kernals with an occasional overthrow.

But this new one might steal the show

I've never had a manual powder thrower as i started with a chargemaster but might get a harrells precision to throw ball powder for less than top precision 223 ammo pretty soon here.
I've got a Harrel's Powder Measure for sale. I've got some drop tubes and bottles for it too. I used to use it when I shot benchrest some years ago. Not sure what they sell for these days.....but I could bring mine back from OZ to MN if we can make a deal. I did haul all my benchrest stuff down here.....and had planned to sell it.....but been too busy playing golf and too lazy to work on it.
 
I got some accurate 2700.

Anyone have data for the 165 grain core lock.

Thanks
 
Right out of my older Accurate reloading guide edition 3.2
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Out of my Reloader manual 2005 edition
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Few other manuals pages I don’t see that powder bullet weight combo in any of my books these should at least point you in the right direction on what powder to purchase.
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Thanks.

The guy who sold me the 2700 was for the 270 not the 280.
I only got to reload 40 of them. So I might use the 4831 sc
 
Western powders reloading guide 6.0
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Thanks.

The guy who sold me the 2700 was for the 270 not the 280.
I only got to reload 40 of them. So I might use the 4831 sc
Now were talking. My 280 loves me some 4831 sc and 140 to 160 gn bullets of most kinds. Never found something better.....but I admit, it's been a while since I tried anything new. I was kinda into the 160 swift sirocco's at one point. Maybe because I was given so many. lol I think my grandson got most of my 7mm bullets now.

I am inclined to believe that bullets made in the last 20 to 30 years are so much better than the past......that you can go down about one caliber and expect similar (or better) performance. IMO....a 280 Is about a perfect big game mountain gun with decent bullets....as long as you'r not at extreme ranges.
 
H4831 and 270s or 280s are a heck of a match. A 280 will get it done much further away than I have any business shooting at animals!
 
Does anyone pay attention to barrel length when choosing powder? It's probably more critical than the scale.
 
Does anyone pay attention to barrel length when choosing powder? It's probably more critical than the scale.

Not typically a factor i put much thought into. I think barrel length is largely irrelevant in relation to powder choice for most folks who are shooting 18-26" barrels.
 
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Not typically a factor i put much thought into. I think barrel length is largely irrelevant in relation to powder choice for most folks who are shooting 18-26" barrels.
I choose powders based on barrel length. I am trying to get 100% burn before the bullet exits, but not too much before. I typically find the most accurate loads for my rifle to be faster than those spec in books, because I am often using a shorter barrel.
 
I choose powders based on barrel length. I am trying to get 100% burn before the bullet exits, but not too much before. I typically find the most accurate loads for my rifle to be faster than those spec in books, because I am often using a shorter barrel.
So......you think you get faster speeds with a shorter barrel length? Enlighten me on how you pull this miracle off?
 
I choose powders based on barrel length. I am trying to get 100% burn before the bullet exits, but not too much before. I typically find the most accurate loads for my rifle to be faster than those spec in books, because I am often using a shorter barrel.
How do you know if you get 100% burn? Quickload? Gordons?

I've gotten to where I try to avoid heavily compressed loads but beyond that i've noticed no difference. My understanding is almost all powder burns near the chamber anyway.

My primary hunting rifles are 18" barrels that are shot suppressed. The same powders that work well for people with 26" or longer match barrels work well for me.
 
I usually guesstimate a reduction of bullet speed of about 25 fps per inch a barrel is shorter than published data as a rough estimate some barrels are faster and slower than published but it’s a place to start.
 
So......you think you get faster speeds with a shorter barrel length? Enlighten me on how you pull this miracle off?
I assumed he meant faster than one would expect because he optimizes powder for a given barrel length? I believe that is largely a farce though too or at least overblown. For example RL26 produces faster speeds than say H4831 in basically everything they are both well suited for. RL26 is going to produce faster velocities with long barrels and with short barrels and I wouldn't expect that gap to change much from 26" to 18" barrel length.
 
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