MAybe you heavy snow folks could latex paint above the vole guards. Might help out. Was thinking of doing that up in the adirondacks.I’ll be lucky to be pruning anything in the next 4-6 weeks. Zone 3a.
We’ve had a foot+ snow in the last 4 days, with another foot coming in the next week.
My 36” tall trunk vole guards are under the snow level right now.
All my trees, atleast the ones I got so far from whitetail crabs are 5ft+ tall. Some are monster whips with no laterals at all. I plan n taking a bit off the top of them when my new shears come in. Maybe 6-8 inches.
A few trees the laterals are turning upward and almost to the height of the total tree. Not sure how much to nip them. I will enjoy these trees at home quite a bit, but some of these tree's main purpose is scion stock for other trees. So, a bit excessive pruning doesn't bother me at all. Will take is pic in a bit and post tonight.
It's still alive. I did find a small amount of black knot on a couple of them again this year. I cut if off and burnt it. Some I had to gouge out. I sprayed them last year and it seemed to have helped. I think it'll be a never ending battle until the trees get too big that I can even reach it.Those little nubs on the laterals and central in Derek's picture, should you cut those? LEt's say they kinda look like fruiting buds, those 1/2 inch long ones. Do you let the buds live, just pick the flowers, or lop em off. For a young tree you want to get bigger instead of fruit production.
PAtinPA, How did that plum tree fare? Was that a natural crotch area, or did you cleft graft the year before?
This works. I didn't do it with double-sided cutting tool like the video guy did, just a sharp knife - and only on one side of the trunk - about 1/4" above a bud. I followed the advice of Penn State and other universities, and some online videos. I just pushed the blade straight into the bark above the bud until I feel & hear a "snap" as the blade breaks through the cambium layer. No sawing the blade back & forth. It worked for me.You could try bud notching to promote branch growth.
This works. I didn't do it with double-sided cutting tool like the video guy did, just a sharp knife - and only on one side of the trunk - about 1/4" above a bud. I followed the advice of Penn State and other universities, and some online videos. I just pushed the blade straight into the bark above the bud until I feel & hear a "snap" as the blade breaks through the cambium layer. No sawing the blade back & forth. It worked for me.
This works. I didn't do it with double-sided cutting tool like the video guy did, just a sharp knife - and only on one side of the trunk - about 1/4" above a bud. I followed the advice of Penn State and other universities, and some online videos. I just pushed the blade straight into the bark above the bud until I feel & hear a "snap" as the blade breaks through the cambium layer. No sawing the blade back & forth. It worked for me.
Yeah, I would be very nervous cutting like he did. A sharp Opinel knife should work.
Absolutely. The absolute best time to start training a new tree is the day the tree is planted IMO. By the time my trees are 2 years old they wont have any scaffold branches lower than 4 feet and likely wont have more than about 5 main scaffolds appropriately spaced, and I can remove my spreaders because all of the crotch angles will be growing at 45-60 degreesYou guys trim new ones at all?