Pruning fruit trees

[PatinPA]

Here are two of my poor plum trees. These are the worst of them. Going to have to cut them way back. The one would've had a decent fruit last year.

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The tree on the left had fungus right in the crotch of the branches at the bottom of the pic. I gouged it out the best I could. Do you think it'll be ok or should I just chop it off and hope the nub resprouts?
I cut a little path for any water to run out and not pool and cause rot.

 

[Apple Junkie]

I’d get some tree wound goo like TreeKote and plaster that area to keep moisture out and let it heal.

This fungus is a bear to get rid of. The “experts” say to prune off any branch you see with it and burn it to destroy the spores. Just pruning it and not properly disposing of the black knots still allows the spores re-infect your tree. I am not setting a good example in this… but after a couple years, I gave up because it kept showing up on so many bigger branches, I had no tree left. You might have better luck, so don’t follow my lead here. Good luck!

 

[PatinPA]

I’d get some tree wound goo like TreeKote and plaster that area to keep moisture out and let it heal.

This fungus is a bear to get rid of. The “experts” say to prune off any branch you see with it and burn it to destroy the spores. Just pruning it and not properly disposing of the black knots still allows the spores re-infect your tree. I am not setting a good example in this… but after a couple years, I gave up because it kept showing up on so many bigger branches, I had no tree left. You might have better luck, so don’t follow my lead here. Good luck!

Ya I looked at few videos on youtube about it last night. It apparently likes to attach to small spur branches. They said to be vigilant on keeping any small branches like that off of the main trunk. Unfortunately two of my four trees have it in prominent locations and I had to hack a bunch of bigger branches off. Hopefully they can bounce back. I'm not sure where it even came from. I think this is about their 4th year in the ground and it just showed up. There are no other plum or cherries nearby that I know of anyway. I'll get some of that tree wound goo. thanks

 

[bigboreblr]

Im kickstarting this old thread, since it's top of the 8th inning for pruning.

I have a portion of my years trees in, but the ones I planted this fall could use some pruning. I got some monster whips, some trees with tons of tiny spurs, A few laterals that are way long. I've seen a few nightmare trees folks didn't prune. They thought they'd mess up or stunt the growth.

Thought these were good info.

Basic

Formative Pruning, Central Leader Form – How to Prune Young Fruit Trees in the First Three Years

Fruit trees are trained into particular shapes to make them more productive, easier to manage and better able to support heavy crop loads. Formative pruning (also referred to as framework pruning) …

deepgreenpermaculture.com

More in-depth

Pruning and Training Fruit Trees

This illustrative publication will help you prune and train a variety of fruit trees. The level of pruning is determined by the kind, cultivar, and age of fruit trees.

store.extension.iastate.edu

Liked the one from iowa so well, I saved it on my computer

 

[bigboreblr]

Wild Thing, lots of great info and pictures.

I'm in need of some good shears, likely buy corona or felco's. I do have a corona lopping shear I only using for pruning. Keeping my eye out for a good used orchard ladder, probably gonna be awhile......

 

[buckdeer1]

I about bought an orchard ladder as there was one on Wichita ks craigs list a month ago

 

[4wanderingeyes]

I was just thinking about trying to get out and start looking over the trees to see how much pruning needs to be done, then I realized there is waist deep snow, and decided the trees can wait until it’s below my knees. May be a while.

 

[Derek Reese 29]

I am way behind on pruning (as in I haven't started) but thankfully I have newer trees that probably don't need a ton. I have a question (sorry in advance for hijacking the thread) about the tree pictured below. It is an Arkansas Black from Turkey Creek that has added some good leafy growth but hasn't grown a ton vertically. It was only planted in spring of 2021, so I know I have to be patient. (and I really like the tree as it is a very solid specimen!)
What pruning should I do on this tree? It seems to have 3 central leaders? Or just 1 central leader and a couple big branches. Definitely will take some of the smaller stuff down low and keeping the big what I think is the central leader in the middle. What should I do with the other 2 bigger branches? They are only about 3.5-4' above the ground. Sorry the pic quality isn't great just snapped it on the way out the driveway this morning. Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[Mortenson]

Some guys will say remove them both now. Others will say take 1 off this year and 1 next year. Snip off all the small stuff below it as well.

 

[Derek Reese 29]

Some guys will say remove them both now. Others will say take 1 off this year and 1 next year. Snip off all the small stuff below it as well.

that was my thought...maybe keep the one on the right as it faces more south and will get the most sun for the tree and get rid of the one to the left this year and all the small stuff then get the one on the left next year...liking that plan!

 

[Turkey Creek]

that was my thought...maybe keep the one on the right as it faces more south and will get the most sun for the tree and get rid of the one to the left this year and all the small stuff then get the one on the left next year...liking that plan!

Take off the heavier "side shoot/ leader" (the left one). Right now your tree thinks it has 3 leaders. As a general rule when young trees are establishing you dont want to ever leave a side shoot over 2/3 the diameter of its main leader as it will start to out compete the main leader. On a older tree if you like the branch location you can just stub it back and let it produce another branch off the stub, thus making it subdominant to the main leader. In this case just remove it. Next year you can remove the other side. Actually looks like it is pushing a good amount of growth, barring anything major occurring you should see a nice push of height from the main leader this year. You have some fruit spurs (will be blossoms this year) already, dont let it produce more than an apple or 2 though or you will be setting back the growth on it.

 

[Derek Reese 29]

Take off the heavier "side shoot/ leader" (the left one). Right now your tree thinks it has 3 leaders. As a general rule when young trees are establishing you dont want to ever leave a side shoot over 2/3 the diameter of its main leader as it will start to out compete the main leader. On a older tree if you like the branch location you can just stub it back and let it produce another branch off the stub, thus making it subdominant to the main leader. In this case just remove it. Next year you can remove the other side. Actually looks like it is pushing a good amount of growth, barring anything major occurring you should see a nice push of height from the main leader this year. You have some fruit spurs (will be blossoms this year) already, dont let it produce more than an apple or 2 though or you will be setting back the growth on it.

Thank you TC! I would like to get some fruit (but not enough to hurt the tree) just to see what it looks like. So glad for all the great advice and greater experience that is shared on this forum.

 

[Bowsnbucks]

Take off the heavier "side shoot/ leader" (the left one). Right now your tree thinks it has 3 leaders. As a general rule when young trees are establishing you dont want to ever leave a side shoot over 2/3 the diameter of its main leader as it will start to out compete the main leader. On a older tree if you like the branch location you can just stub it back and let it produce another branch off the stub, thus making it subdominant to the main leader. In this case just remove it. Next year you can remove the other side. Actually looks like it is pushing a good amount of growth, barring anything major occurring you should see a nice push of height from the main leader this year. You have some fruit spurs (will be blossoms this year) already, dont let it produce more than an apple or 2 though or you will be setting back the growth on it.

Hey TC -
Isn't there some kind of "internal wiring" in fruit trees that tell the tree to respond a certain way to how it's pruned?? Some kind of hormone guidance?? Like if you take off lower limbs (some in this case), the tree "knows" to push growth upward??

 

[Turkey Creek]

Hey TC -
Isn't there some kind of "internal wiring" in fruit trees that tell the tree to respond a certain way to how it's pruned?? Some kind of hormone guidance?? Like if you take off lower limbs (some in this case), the tree "knows" to push growth upward??

Yes plant hormones (Auxins for the most part) control a lot of shoot/ branch development. Terminal buds on leaders have a lot of control over tissue/ buds that in relative close proximity to it through hormone production.

 

[omicron1792]

Yes plant hormones (Auxins for the most part) control a lot of shoot/ branch development. Terminal buds on leaders have a lot of control over tissue/ buds that in relative close proximity to it through hormone production.

I want to put out a shoutout for Turkey Creek. My dealings with him have been first class. He’s given me great advice and a pleasure to do business with.

 

[Derek Reese 29]

I want to put out a shoutout for Turkey Creek. My dealings with him have been first class. He’s given me great advice and a pleasure to do business with.

Definitely second that!! Very easy to work with and extremely helpful.

 

[bigboreblr]

If you're keeping one of those larger ones, I'd atleast put a spreader on it to get the crotch angle better.

 

[bigboreblr]

Those little nubs on the laterals and central in Derek's picture, should you cut those? LEt's say they kinda look like fruiting buds, those 1/2 inch long ones. Do you let the buds live, just pick the flowers, or lop em off. For a young tree you want to get bigger instead of fruit production.

PAtinPA, How did that plum tree fare? Was that a natural crotch area, or did you cleft graft the year before?

 

[Turkey Creek]

Those little nubs on the laterals and central in Derek's picture, should you cut those? LEt's say they kinda look like fruiting buds, those 1/2 inch long ones. Do you let the buds live, just pick the flowers, or lop em off. For a young tree you want to get bigger instead of fruit production.

PAtinPA, How did that plum tree fare? Was that a natural crotch area, or did you cleft graft the year before?

All those "little nubs" are fruiting spurs, just leave them unless you are removing the branch entirely. As the tree matures the ones on the trunk will basically just become "inactive". I typically leave the flowers and pop off any fruit that starts to set. The bees and other pollinators always enjoy those first blooms of Spring.

 

[b116757]

My oldest boy and I pruned about 60 fruit trees the other day wearing t-shirts in Zone 6b