Oak tree from acorns?

Derek Reese 29

5 year old buck +
So this is a weird question and may have already been asked but anyone got a good resource for how to grow oaks from acorns. I’m sitting near a big white oak and have been covered up in deer all morning. I know they take a long time to produce, but if there is this level of attraction I would certainly be interested in trying to add some at my house..I know you have to stratify them but beyond that have no idea…thanks fellas!60920FFF-03A3-4088-8154-37470427545E.jpeg
 
You don’t have to stratify white oaks but you can refrigerate them over winter if desired. That’s what I usually do. Damp (not wet) paper towel in a ziplock then plant in early spring after your last frost or inside under lights anytime.


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We usually start ours in small pots designed for this purpose with commercial seed starter mix then in ~June we up pot them to one gallon Rootmaker’s. At that point we plant them in 3-1-1 planting medium. Three parts mini pine bark nuggets, one part sand, one part peat moss.


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My Great Grand parents had a 40 acre farm in NJ 30 minutes from NYC...most of the farm was sold off in the 1930's except for 2-3 acres. There was a Huge oak there even when My Grandfather was a kid and he was born in 1910 and they use to keep a mule down near the tree. The tree still stands today, and a Cousin now owns the land with the big old oak. 5-6 years ago (maybe longer) I asked him to send me some acorns from that tree. I planted them in pots and left them out in the garden all winter here in Virginia. I got 3 trees to grow....two I planted in the woods and haven't grown much, This one I planted in the front yard in full sun and is probably 10-12 foot tall. Here are some tips
 

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Might be worth it looking around your woods for younger trees to open up or transplant.

NYSDEC seedling sale had white oak. A few places sell seedlings for a few bucks each.

Those options can get you 2-10 years ahead of the curve. Other oaks produce alot quicker. Got pin oaks growing up nicely at home here.
 
I would plant bare root trees from a department of conservation. They will save you at least a year or two for around 0.60/tree. I think it is a good deal.

Make sure you get some tree tubes or cages to protect the seedlings.
 
Might be worth it looking around your woods for younger trees to open up or transplant.

NYSDEC seedling sale had white oak. A few places sell seedlings for a few bucks each.

Those options can get you 2-10 years ahead of the curve. Other oaks produce alot quicker. Got pin oaks growing up nicely at home here.
I was really just gonna try it from scratch to get those genes…I couldn’t believe the amount of acorns I was slipping on them getting to the tree in the dark and with every little puff of wind another 2 dozen fell…
 
Might be worth it looking around your woods for younger trees to open up or transplant.

NYSDEC seedling sale had white oak. A few places sell seedlings for a few bucks each.

Those options can get you 2-10 years ahead of the curve. Other oaks produce alot quicker. Got pin oaks growing up nicely at home here.
I did look around a little but the canopy is so thick in there I don’t think there are many little ones..would love to get a few and pop them in tubes in my fence row or along the bottom part of my food plot and see what happens!
 
I would plant bare root trees from a department of conservation. They will save you at least a year or two for around 0.60/tree. I think it is a good deal.

Make sure you get some tree tubes or cages to protect the seedlings.
I’d love you buy trees for .60 a piece!!
 
I have planted some burr oak from MDC. They were nice. Last year I paid $43 for 25 swamp white oak bare roots from the local NRCS. DNR stuff is cheaper but they want you to buy in increments of 100. No thanks.



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I like the @OakSeeds method of direct planting with a 2 gal container with bottom cut off and hardware mesh protecting the acorns.

Seems that some of the hybrids should grow faster and bear acorns sooner so I’d consider getting some of them if one wants to see an oak produce before they are ancient.
 
I like the @OakSeeds method of direct planting with a 2 gal container with bottom cut off and hardware mesh protecting the acorns.

Seems that some of the hybrids should grow faster and bear acorns sooner so I’d consider getting some of them if one wants to see an oak produce before they are ancient.

I’m gonna need a full run through on this one…
Is it just bury acorn, place 2-gal bucket over (with bottom removed), then cage above the bucket?


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I will be storing my acorns in the fridge this winter and planting them in the very early spring less likely hood of predation of the acorns. I have fall planted acorns also with good success but feel the longer I can keep them out of harms way the better. I really like one of these for plugging acorns.

 
I’m gonna need a full run through on this one…
Is it just bury acorn, place 2-gal bucket over (with bottom removed), then cage above the bucket?


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I can look for his description tomorrow but here’s a quick picture of one I did with bur English oaks from a generous forum member. The dirt on top is actually left over vermicast I was using up from a different generous member but not part of the standard program.
The containers are just cheap leftovers from potted spruce from the SWCD spring tree sales.
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Do you end up pulling the pots out?
 
I put acorns in ziploks, usually with moist sphagnum moss or sawdust. Poke holes in the bags or crack the top open to let them breathe a bit, and stuff them in the beer crisper in the fridge. Around the end of February I pot them and put them under lights. After last frost, I'll put them outside until I can get them in the ground, usually in their permanent location by the wnd of june. I always tube oaks and have very few losses each year.
The acorns in the bags are from yesterday. I was scouting these trees and they were raining down. I couldn't resist filling my pockets. The swamp whites are about 50 yards down wind of the whites and I have a tree from one of these that looks like a cross.
 

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Do you end up pulling the pots out?

Not yet. That pic is from this year. The pots have no bottom so it’s just a matter of pulling them once the tree starts really getting big. The sides of the pot are only 5 or 6” deep.
 
I can look for his description tomorrow but here’s a quick picture of one I did with bur English oaks from a generous forum member. The dirt on top is actually left over vermicast I was using up from a different generous member but not part of the standard program.
The containers are just cheap leftovers from potted spruce from the SWCD spring tree sales.
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The seedling grows through the hardware mesh, then you cut the mesh out, correct?
 
The seedling grows through the hardware mesh, then you cut the mesh out, correct?
That is correct. Mesh is just to protect the acorn from tree rats until the seedling is established.
 
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I can look for his description tomorrow but here’s a quick picture of one I did with bur English oaks from a generous forum member. The dirt on top is actually left over vermicast I was using up from a different generous member but not part of the standard program.
The containers are just cheap leftovers from potted spruce from the SWCD spring tree sales.
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This is the post I got the idea from: https://habitat-talk.com/threads/field-grown-trees-anyone.5889/page-3
Originally Posted by OakSeeds

Even though I am planting a small acorn, I prepare a "planting hole" that is 2-3 feet in diameter and 12-18 inches deep. I plant the acorn (lay it on it's side so the radical grows downward) about 3-4 inches deep (it will be only a couple inches under the soil after moisture compacts the loose soil in the planting hole). I cover the acorn with a piece of hardware cloth or other piece of metal to keep squirrels/other rodents from eating the acorn. I take a 3-gal black plastic landscape pot and cut the bottom out of it; then, I place the pot over the planted acorn and push it down 2-4 inches into the loose soil. The landscape pot serves 3 important purposes; first, it helps to keep rodents and rabbits away from the newly planted acorn or newly growing seedling. Second, the black plastic absorbs sunlight and gives me a greenhouse effect in the early spring with cool days. 3rd, the pot makes watering the tree very efficient with no runoff; all the water goes directly down to the root zone. Finally, I almost always place a cage over the newly planted tree; if you don't, it is very likely deer will browse the central leader off them (make bushes of you tree). I always give direct seeded acorns a good watering when I plant them to ensure the radical has good contact with the soil and that it has the moisture necessary to promote growth. Good luck; contact me if I can be of help in any way.
 
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