Northwest Greening Apple

[buckvelvet]

This tree is available this year from my local conservation district. The wolf river is too (AWESOME!) However I am not familiar with the Northwest Greening variety, does anyone know of its disease resistance as I have not seen it on any charts that I could find.

 

[leexrayshady]

Sanbur Loves this apple, I have one I planted several years ago but it go hit by sunscauld and never has recovered I think Im going to just cut it down this spring. but from what I have heard it is a very good late hanger

 

[sandbur]

My NWG tends to bare every other year. It has been hardy at my location between zone 3 and zone 4. CAR has not been a major problem at this point.


a few years back in Nov, I left my deer stand with my pockets full of frozen NWG. They were still good.

I would recommend it for deer hunters for the Nov. time frame.

I prefer crab apples if you can find those that hang in the same time period, but NWG works.

 

[buckvelvet]

My NWG tends to bare every other year. It has been hardy at my location between zone 3 and zone 4. CAR has not been a major problem at this point.


a few years back in Nov, I left my deer stand with my pockets full of frozen NWG. They were still good.

I would recommend it for deer hunters for the Nov. time frame.

I prefer crab apples if you can find those that hang in the same time period, but NWG works.

Agreed Sandbur I'd rather have Crabs (lol) but NWG is just a cheap option from my local CR district campaign. I contacted them to see what rootstock they are grown on. I'm not sure what the real late hangers are for the Crabs as Dolgo and things are earler if I'm not mistaken.

 

[sandbur]

Agreed Sandbur I'd rather have Crabs (lol) but NWG is just a cheap option from my local CR district campaign. I contacted them to see what rootstock they are grown on. I'm not sure what the real late hangers are for the Crabs as Dolgo and things are earler if I'm not mistaken.

Kerr is supposed to be a bit later dropping.

I also suspect columbia and some ranetka rootstock.

 

[Bowsnbucks]

Bur - you beat me to the Kerr suggestion. Late Sept. into Oct. for ripening time. I'm not familiar w/ Columbia or Ranetka. Kerr is a cross between Dolgo and Haralson apple. From every account I've read or heard, it's a great tree to have.

Edit: All-Winter-Hangover, Winter Wildlife, and Violi's hanging crabs from SLN are supposed to keep dropping crabapples over the winter. 1" to 1 1/2" fruit.

 

[Ben.MN/WI]

I planted a NW Greening on my land in NW WI about 5 years ago and it was my fastest growing apple tree. It's produced only a few apples so far, but the growth was very impressive. That tree was from Woodstock Nursery in WI and it was listed as semi-dwarf rootstock.

 

[buckvelvet]

I'm trying to stay with full size trees because I don't like them being to short when the snows like last year get 4 feet deep and the deer could potentially real havoc on the trees themselves.

 

[Ben.MN/WI]

I agree with you on sticking with full sized trees. I didn't really know much about rootstock the first few years I planted apple trees and most of them ended up being semi-dwarf. Now I get 95% of my trees from SLN and they're listed as standard sized. My semi-dwarf NW greening is already at least 12 feet tall, so it should end up being a pretty impressive tree despite the less desirable rootstock.

 

[buckvelvet]

Ben I'm pretty familiar with your apple information you are deff one of the go to guys for sure. I have no doubts at all that one of your trees will result in the impressive category. :)

I'm doing this on the small scale as I don't have much land to work with even though I LOVE planting trees so I'm trying to plan this the best I can. I put in 15 apple/pear trees last year with tubes and wire cages I am only losing about 3 due to 2 never waking up and 1 was just to darn finiky. I will replace those and add maybe 5 more so I got to do some better planning to get all the varieties I want.

I'd love to just stick with crabs and pears though.

I currently have Dolgo, Chesnut, and a hybrid from Oikos and then a few Laconte pears but I want to install Bartlett and Kieffers and 4 or so more crabs of other varieties.

 

[Ben.MN/WI]

I've also learned the hard way how easy it is to kill a tree, so I have quite a bit of experience growing trees that are less than impressive. Last winter is really tough on my pear trees - I had a number of pear trees die back after last winter. I don't think I'll plant any more pears since I'm concerned about their hardiness. I've read some places that pears are more hardy than apples, but I have not found that to be the case.

I also have been planting more crabapples the last couple years. I like the late dropping dates that the crabapples have and it sounds like they are reliable producers. I've purchased different types of crabapples from SLN, but a couple years ago I ordered some ornamental crabapples from our county and they looked really good as well. I've heard that the ornamental crabs aren't used by deer quite as much, but they're preferred by both grouse and turkeys so I thought they would be worth a try. My land in northern WI has some decent grouse numbers, so I decided to plant a dozen crabapple trees for the grouse.

 

[buckvelvet]

I planted 2 Flemish Beauty from Cummins nursery in my own personal orchard this past year and they were doing well in their first growing season. Have you tried them for Pears as they are rated well as a cold seasoned pear?

 

[Ben.MN/WI]

I haven't tried Cummins, but I know a lot of people here recommend them. A couple of my pears that died back were from St. Lawrence Nursery and were supposed to be cold hardy and I believe a couple other pears were from Woodstock Nursery in WI. I also had a cherry die back last winter as well. My apples seemed to do pretty well, but most of the other fruits didn't fare as well. Even though the tops of some of the pears died they ended up sending up some new growth from the main trunk, so they're still alive. It will be interesting to see if the pears can withstand a colder winter when they get older or if they will die back once a decade or so.

 

[buckvelvet]

I haven't tried Cummins, but I know a lot of people here recommend them. A couple of my pears that died back were from St. Lawrence Nursery and were supposed to be cold hardy and I believe a couple other pears were from Woodstock Nursery in WI. I also had a cherry die back last winter as well. My apples seemed to do pretty well, but most of the other fruits didn't fare as well. Even though the tops of some of the pears died they ended up sending up some new growth from the main trunk, so they're still alive. It will be interesting to see if the pears can withstand a colder winter when they get older or if they will die back once a decade or so.

I got my Chesnut Crab and some beaked Hazelnut from Wallace last year. My chestnut is doing awesome and there was this little root piece attached to it that had a chute attached to it. So I stuck that in the ground separately and it's growing awesome in another location, freebie!

The beaked hazelnut I got from them has had zero signs of life the entire time so that was incredibly disappointing as the stock they sent me never woke up. I did not however contact them to voice that concern so thats my fault.

 

[buckvelvet]

Were they bare root? Did you sweat the roots before planting them to wake them up?

They were bare root yes. I just jumped into planting stuff face first, I didn't know what sweating roots was last spring nor am I familiar w/ the term now.

 

[buckvelvet]

I had them in a bucket of water over night when I got them in the mail before planting the next day so I guess I did sweat them just unannounced to me. :)

 

[chummer]

I planted 2 Flemish Beauty from Cummins nursery in my own personal orchard this past year and they were doing well in their first growing season. Have you tried them for Pears as they are rated well as a cold seasoned pear?

I planted 4 different varieties of pear from cummins two years ago. 3 of the 4 including Flemish Beauty had severe die back. They sprouted again above the graft and put on 5'+ of growth. If they don't survive this winter I will be pulling them.

 

[buckvelvet]

I planted 4 different varieties of pear from cummins two years ago. 3 of the 4 including Flemish Beauty had severe die back. They sprouted again above the graft and put on 5'+ of growth. If they don't survive this winter I will be pulling them.

Yikes that doesn't make me feel very good about my prospects. :(

 

[Bowsnbucks]

Ben.MN/WI - You said you have good grouse numbers and you planted crabs for them. Do you have any hawthorn trees on your land? If you don't, I highly recommend Washington hawthorn trees for grouse. I planted 12 of them about 18 yrs. ago at my camp and they draw grouse like magnets in the fall / winter. It's rare that a walk past those haws doesn't put out some grouse. They eat those red berries like candy and they produce loads of them each year. Deer also eat the drops and turkeys love them too. Trees are tough as nails and have withstood browsing when young. Just a thought if it's any help to you.

 

[Ben.MN/WI]

bowsnbucks - Thanks for the suggestion, I haven't planted any Washington Hawthorns. I'll have to look them up to see if they are hardy enough to live in northern Wisconsin. About 7 years ago I planted 100 hawthorn seedlings from the WI DNR on the edge of my pine/spruce visual screen by the road, but they didn't do too well. there might be a few left hanging on, but they certainly aren't setting any growth records. I really like the idea of having good grouse hunting in the long term, so I've been trying to add shrubs and trees that grouse like. Were the hawthorns you planted just 12" tall seedlings or were they large trees? I'll probably try to plant some this spring - do you remember where you bought them from?