Mowing clover?

Just had to mow one problem plot a second time this summer. This was a throw and mow type plot that did not really take off last year and showed some weed problems this year. Mowing #1 was an early flush of yellow rocket. First time I have really seen that on my land but common in some fields not too far from me early in the year. Mowing #2 was for the top three weeds on my hill. Thistle, thistle, and thistle. Coming in 4th place this year was some more pigweed. I held off as long as I could so the white clover that was there could bloom and hopefully set some seed. I do have an advantage over those with just lawn mower or swisher style equipment that I can set the brushhog style mower fairly high. Hardly chopped any of the clover heads but they were mostly brown anyway.

Did not mow the plot mentioned in Post #3 above. It has some grass but very little other weeds and the pigweed got smothered out by the vigorous clover growing. I'm sure there is still seed there but just not giving them the space to germinate.

We also just had a bunch of rain so not too worried about stressing the stuff I wanna keep growing.
I just read about this the other day on a Lick Creek thread, might be helpful to you bud.

"Weed suppressor - Rye is one of the best cool season cover crops for out competing weeds,especially small-seeded, light-sensitive annuals such as lambsquarters, redroot, pigweed, vel -vetleaf, chickweed and foxtail. Rye also suppress -es many weeds allelopathically (as a natural herbicide), including dandelions and Canada thistle and has been shown to inhibit germination of some triazine-resistant weeds"

Page 101 on this site, this was a clickable link in the Lick Creek thread.
 
Deer hammer poke salad at my place. I leave it standing when I see it. I agree that weeds for a deer manager are beneficial. 1. Some weeds deer will eat and are very nutritious for them. 2. Weeds that are not beneficial to deer in a plot will become organic matter once it is mowed. Just have to keep a watch on the plot and not let the weeds take over.
I'd say it really depends on the plot and your objectives. For example, I plant my small sub-acre harvest plots with perennial clover. I do take care to follow best practices during establishment to start with a clean field, but after the first year, I just let it go and mow once just before the season. Clover is a cool season crop and my objective is hunting season attraction for these plots. There are so many "weeds" and such diversity of weeds that you wouldn't even know there was clover in it in the summer. Those weeds provide food and cover for wildlife as well as helping shade the clover from the hot summer sun. I mow as cool evenings and fall rain favor the clover. For the first few years, a couple weeks after I mow, you won't even know there were weeds in the field. Lush clover, favored at this time of year, takes over. That clover fulfills my objective for 7 to 10 years before I have to rotate. Because clover fixes N into the soil, each year, it becomes more and more attractive to many weeds that need the N. Eventually, a clover field wears out and needs to be rotated no matter what you do. The time and cost of regular mowing and selective herbicides far outweigh any benefit in this case.

Contrast that will the summer plots I had for years. Between browse pressure and weed competition, I could not begin to cover the summer stress period. These feeding plots had a different QDM objective of covering that stress period. By using RR beans and gly I was able to cover that period for many years. When we had a pine thinning adjoining these large fields followed by a controlled burn, the open canopy and needle removal caused a plethora of seeds in the seed bank to sprout. The most dominate was Marstail which quickly got into our food plots. Because it is naturally resistant to glyphosate, planting RR beans was just making things worse, so we had to change course.

We turned to 24D Amine and a smother crop of buckwheat and sunn hemp for summer. Eventually we turned to a LIberty generic for burndown which did an even better job on Marstail. Things are under control now, so we could probably go back to planting RR beans, but decided not to. Why use all that herbicide to plant beans? If we go RR, the Marstail could raise it's ugly head again. Using Liberty-link is even more expensive. The buckwheat and sunn hemp are competing favorably against weeds, and shooting does has helped with browse pressure. So at this point, we are sticking with the buckwheat/sunn hemp approach. It has been quite cost effective for us.

Here are two examples where different conditions and objectives and required quite different management.

A very smart guy once said that the best definition of a weed is simply a plant growing some place you don't want it to grow. So by that definition, we are probably all anti-weed. However, by a farmer's definition, "anything I didn't plant in my crop field", there are many weeds that are either positive or neutral from a deer manager's perspective.

Thanks,

Jack
 
I just read about this the other day on a Lick Creek thread, might be helpful to you bud.

"Weed suppressor - Rye is one of the best cool season cover crops for out competing weeds,especially small-seeded, light-sensitive annuals such as lambsquarters, redroot, pigweed, vel -vetleaf, chickweed and foxtail. Rye also suppress -es many weeds allelopathically (as a natural herbicide), including dandelions and Canada thistle and has been shown to inhibit germination of some triazine-resistant weeds"

Page 101 on this site, this was a clickable link in the Lick Creek thread.

Yah, actually did throw rye and clover out late in the year on this plot and another plot that beans got decimated so bad that no canopy and weeds were getting going. Actually threw rye out twice several weeks apart. On the sparse beans finally ran disc lightly thru one pass to help rye germination. That made a big difference. On the throw and mow plot wanted to see results just throw and hope. Yep it sucked. Hence why this spring had more issues with weeds. So now will try timely mowing and see if the clover out muscles the 95% crap weeds I have that cows wont eat either, much less deer.
 
Curious question, After the clover flowers and the flowers brown, what happens to the seeds? Do they naturally fall to the ground or what? Probably a dumb question, but hey, got to learn some way!
 
I didn't have time to read every post on this thread, but I have a question. We have a couple clover plots with some grass and broadleaf weeds in them. I know you're not supposed to mow clover in hot, dry weather without a near-certain forecast for GOOD rain in 24 hours after mowing. How do you time your mowing if you want to hammer the weeds before they seed - and still get "free seed" from your clover to thicken the plot?? We aren't farmers at camp !!!

Thanks in advance for all advice.
 
I didn't have time to read every post on this thread, but I have a question. We have a couple clover plots with some grass and broadleaf weeds in them. I know you're not supposed to mow clover in hot, dry weather without a near-certain forecast for GOOD rain in 24 hours after mowing. How do you time your mowing if you want to hammer the weeds before they seed - and still get "free seed" from your clover to thicken the plot?? We aren't farmers at camp !!!

Thanks in advance for all advice.

That is where knowing what weeds are a problem and which weeds are beneficial. Every plant has it's own cycle. I ignore non-problematic and beneficial weeds. For an infestation of a problematic weed, you really have to look into the weed. Some weeds can be controlled by mowing before they go to seed, but it is not that simple. For example, one weed I've dealt with is Marstail. If you mow it too early, it will just flower again but much shorter and eventually it is too low to mow. If you wait until it flowers and get it just before it goes to seed, it does not have time to flower and have the seed mature again (at least in my area). But wait. Seed is not the only way it propagates. It will resprout next year from the root system. Herbicides are most effective when it is young.

So, it took a combination of methods for me to get a handle on it. I ended up spraying in the spring and then planting a smother crop of buckwheat and sunn hemp. In perennial clover, I could not get it under control without killing the clover. Because it is problematic, I had to deal with the weed for a couple years before rotating back into clover.

That is just one example of one problematic weed. When I have a good mix of diverse weeds in clover, I completely ignore them. Most of those weeds don't hurt the clover at all. When I mow once, just before the season, the fall weather lets the clover dominate again.

If you have to mow clover in the heat, mow it high. That will stress it less. When perennial clover is well established, it is pretty hard to kill. I would not mow below about 8" or so during dry periods if I had to mow for a specific weed control.

Thanks,

Jack
 
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