More problems in my orchard

[Charman03]

Perhaps this copper stuff?

I have the bottom stuff already

 

[sandbur]

I have nearly lost a couple of trees that were hit by scab and CAR at the same time. They were seedling apples and nearly 30 years old.

Do some trees, depending on rootstock , have a limited lifespans on lighter soil? I heard this many years ago , before we had as many different rootstocks or before we had the internet to share info between areas of the country. This was about 50 years back and the discussion was about hardy rootstock for northern Minnesota.


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Typically, the smaller the dwarf tree, the shorter the productive life span. I have read thatgrowers will often replant apple trees on M26 rootstock after 15-20 years.

Dwarfs are often not recommended by many in the north country from what I have heard.


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[marlin]

Yes liberty is supposedly immune to scab. Perhaps it's something else. Can't believe how many problems I'm having with my trees. Almost every tree has something going on

Liberty is resistant not immune . Get on a good spray program...everything will be fine.

 

[Apple Junkie]

I guess my trees get tough love once they are at the camp. Cages and some mowing is all they get, no watering or spaying. Luckily, there is no Apple Protection Society to report me to - yet!

 

[Native Hunter]

Those maples look healthy.....

Yes, I agree with probably scab on the Liberty and 100% CAR on the others. Although undesirable and ugly, none of that looks serious enough for great concern in a wildlife planting. One of the best bearing apples I grow has CAR worse than that every year but drops loads of fruit and stays health.

But, if the Apple Protection Society finds out...………….

 

[chickenlittle]

That is not scab on the Liberty's leaves. It is Frogeye Spot / Black Rot. Beyond spraying fungicide, you want to remove apples that rot on and hang all winter as mummies on the tree. Next winter, see if there are cankers forming on the tree that need pruned out and remove those. Those mummified apples and cankers are the where the fungus will overwinter.

https://plantpathology.ca.uky.edu/files/ppfs-fr-t-03.pdf
https://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/plpath-fru-07
https://blogs.cornell.edu/acimoviclab/fungal-diseases-symptoms-2/

 

[sandbur]

That is not scab on the Liberty's leaves. It is Frogeye Spot / Black Rot. Beyond spraying fungicide, you want to remove apples that rot on and hang all winter as mummies on the tree. Next winter, see if there are cankers forming on the tree that need pruned out and remove those. Those mummified apples and cankers are the where the fungus will overwinter.

https://plantpathology.ca.uky.edu/files/ppfs-fr-t-03.pdf
https://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/plpath-fru-07
https://blogs.cornell.edu/acimoviclab/fungal-diseases-symptoms-2/

Good to know. Thanks. I pulled apples off of my Kerr crab this spring.


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[buckdeer1]

Why worry about CAR?I wish 1/2 my ground was cedars

 

[Charman03]

If CAR gets bad can it defoliate the tree?

 

[Native Hunter]

If CAR gets bad can it defoliate the tree?

It depends on how susceptible the particular cultivar of apple is to it. I've seen it nearly kill trees, but that is uncommon.

Most of us take disease resistance into account before we purchase trees. Most of us are also willing to plant a tree that may have some CAR spots if other attributes of the tree are appealing to us. For instance, I planted a Goldrush knowing that it would have quite a bit of CAR spotting in my area. However, the other things I knew about it made me willing to take the risk. Normally, for me to buy any apple it has to have the reputation of being highly resistant to CAR and FB. Either can be troublesome, but FB is the one that will make you wish you had never seen an apple tree if you plant the wrong one.