There are lots of grafting techniques and finding the right one for the job can be difficult. It is going to depend on what you are grafting too and, of course, the skill of the grafter. For example, Chestnuts tend respond to the injury of grafting by putting up new shoots from the ground. It is hard to convince them to put the energy into the scion rather than new shoots. Persimmons tend to push water sprouts as a response to cutting them down to do a traditional bark graft. One of the most important thing with them is to remove water sprouts under the graft every week or so for that first season after grafting. Apples seem to do pretty well at pushing a graft.
This is very general, but trees seem to want to push the most energy into to highest point, usually the top of the central leader. So, in general, you lateral graft will get less energy than the scion. That does not mean the scion won't get enough energy to grow. I would use this kind of when trying to grow multiple varieties on a the same tree. Another application might be if the tree is so large that you think the wound from a traditional bark graft would put the tree at risk. I've tried traditional bark grafting on some persimmons that were 5" or more in diameter with poor results. One strategy might be to use this lateral bark graft with multiple scions on a large tree and then pick the best one that takes and remove the rest of them. Then take about 25% of the parent branch down each year for 4 years. This would leave a more substantial tree when the final cut is made. It may allow the tree to recover.
It is an interesting technique.
Thanks,
Jack