Hydraulic Top Link?

[SWIFFY]

Who uses one and thinks its worth the money?? Ive had a few of my neighbors and friends say its not worth it... but I look at how often it would be so nice to adjust that angle from the seat... I cant help but want to find out myself! Any of you tried one and didnt like it? Other than the up from cost, or taking up a set of valves, whats the downside? Just curious... they arent so expensive that someday if I found one On sale I may just have to get it.

 

[thunderchicken10]

I just bought a new JD and wish I’d put one on mine. I’ve always like having one


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[Foggy47]

I've got a new Kubota L 3560 a few years ago...and immediately added a hydraulic top link....which I bought from Agri Supply.....or Surplus Hydraulics (can't remember which). I would do it again in a heartbeat. Much easier to hook up implements.....and adjusting things like a disk, mower or drill on the fly is really nice. I dont think I have $250 invested in mine with hoses and couplers. I already had the extra remotes when I bought the tractor.

 

[DavidHunter2001]

Been using one for years and would not be without it.

 

[yoderjac]

Who uses one and thinks its worth the money?? Ive had a few of my neighbors and friends say its not worth it... but I look at how often it would be so nice to adjust that angle from the seat... I cant help but want to find out myself! Any of you tried one and didnt like it? Other than the up from cost, or taking up a set of valves, whats the downside? Just curious... they arent so expensive that someday if I found one On sale I may just have to get it.

I do and well worth the small amount of money for the benefit. Faster hook-up to start with, but the big benefit is dynamic changes. For some implements like my seed drill that hang out far behind the hitch. I need dynamic adjustment. It has a cultipacker that covers the seed. If I adjust the top link on this little Kasco versadrill so the cultipacker works, when I lift it I barely have a couple inches of ground clearance for the cultipacker which is problematic when making turns on uneven ground. I retract the toplink for transport and then extend it to plant. One more advantage is that it makes a 3-pt drill work like a tow-behind. A tow-behind "floats" where a 3-pt is pushed down then lifted when the tractor goes over a hump resulting in unplanted spots. By attaching a chain between the hydraluic toplink and drill, I can lift it with plenty of ground clearance for transport. When I plant, I extend it so there is slack in the chain. The drill then follows the contour of the ground. I also do this with mowers so they float.

For a couple hundred bucks (presuming you have the plumbing) they are well worth it for me!

If you use the search on here you will find several good threads. Here is one: https://habitat-talk.com/index.php?...-transfered-from-qdma-forum.5539/#post-107832

Thanks,

Jack

 

[SWIFFY]

Thanks for the input guys! Yoder I can see what you mean about the float advantage... id never thought of that. I have that on my brush mower but the chain is between the 3 pt hook up and the rear wheel, so different location of the chain but same result in the float.

I have 3 remotes and only have 1 implement right now that takes any so I dont think it will be an issue. If so id just unhook it.

One question, during the hookup do you have to have the top link hole PERFECT or how do you get that to line up? With a traditional toplink you can twist the thread to microadjust it to fit. With the hydraulic do you have to keep getting on and off the tractor and adjusting your lever until its perfect??? Just now sure about that part.

FWIW most of my stuff I have redone so it all hooks up to a Quicktach, im thinking the Hydro link would make that even easier yet!? Plus the benefit of the leveling.

Thanks

 

[yoderjac]

Thanks for the input guys! Yoder I can see what you mean about the float advantage... id never thought of that. I have that on my brush mower but the chain is between the 3 pt hook up and the rear wheel, so different location of the chain but same result in the float.

I have 3 remotes and only have 1 implement right now that takes any so I dont think it will be an issue. If so id just unhook it.

One question, during the hookup do you have to have the top link hole PERFECT or how do you get that to line up? With a traditional toplink you can twist the thread to microadjust it to fit. With the hydraulic do you have to keep getting on and off the tractor and adjusting your lever until its perfect??? Just now sure about that part.

FWIW most of my stuff I have redone so it all hooks up to a Quicktach, im thinking the Hydro link would make that even easier yet!? Plus the benefit of the leveling.

Thanks

For implements with a chain between the toplink and implement it is not an issue. You just need to be in the right ball park. Most of my implements are kept on dollies on a cement barn floor so I can move them by myself. Since I can move the implement slightly, again, I just need to be close. For a few items like a box blade that I keep outside, you need to be much closer, but not perfect. It is just a matter of getting a feel for the detent control in my tractor. I can bump it to move the cylinder slightly. Even with these implements I find it faster.

I tried a quick attach and did not like it. It fits some implements but is problematic with others. Some implements like a box blade can be much more effective when I adjust the angle for different situations. My quick hitch just sits. Some day I might put it on my little tractor that just uses a few small implements. I found the dolly/hydraulic toplink was a better solution for me. I find it much more flexible.

For implements that are just steel, with no PTO or gears to worry about, I store them outside with no dolly. It is much more of a pain to maneuver the tractor to get the arms hooked up than the toplink. I recently got a cement mixer (https://habitat-talk.com/index.php?threads/cement-mixer.14411/). My longer term plan, when I get time, is t build dollies for these. I'll then pour small pads a couple feet square where the wheels of the dollies go. This should let me maneuver the implements a foot or so for easy alignment of the arms. In the barn, space is limited, so I need to push them some distance for storage. Outside, I'll just need small pads strategically placed.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[WeedyJ]

Get it. Agree with everyone above.