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Hydraulic Top Link?

SwampCat

5 year old buck +
I want to buy one for my 65hp JD. It will be cat 2. What do I need to look for. I have a couple implements that weigh 1900 to 2400 lbs on the 3pt. I also road the tractor ten miles to one tract of land and I dont want the cylinder dropping the equipment in the highway. Do I need check valves?
 
I don't really have much to offer here but I love my hyd top link. I have a 40hp Kubota and have never had issues with my top link dropping anything other than after I park it, if there's weight on it, it will slowly extend till the weight hits the ground or it extends all the way.
 
I've never had an issue with mine dropping anything. One thing you need to consider is how you will use it. There is a range from the shortest position to longest that you specify when you buy one. One of the things I use mine for a large mower and a seed drill both of which are 3-pt implements. I put a short length of chain between the implement and the top link. This allows me to shorten the top-link to pick up the implement rear higher off the ground for transport. When using the implement, I lengthen it until there is slack in the chain. This allows the implement to "float" on the ground. A 3-pt drill typically leaves gaps when going over uneven ground where a tow behind "floats" and follows the contour of the ground better. With my setup, the 3-pt drill works like a tow-behind for operation and a 3-point for transport.

If you are going to use it like this, you need to figure out the right length for both the shortest position of the toplink, the longest position, and the length of chain you will use.

Thanks,

Jack
 
I've never had an issue with mine dropping anything. One thing you need to consider is how you will use it. There is a range from the shortest position to longest that you specify when you buy one. One of the things I use mine for a large mower and a seed drill both of which are 3-pt implements. I put a short length of chain between the implement and the top link. This allows me to shorten the top-link to pick up the implement rear higher off the ground for transport. When using the implement, I lengthen it until there is slack in the chain. This allows the implement to "float" on the ground. A 3-pt drill typically leaves gaps when going over uneven ground where a tow behind "floats" and follows the contour of the ground better. With my setup, the 3-pt drill works like a tow-behind for operation and a 3-point for transport.

If you are going to use it like this, you need to figure out the right length for both the shortest position of the toplink, the longest position, and the length of chain you will use.

Thanks,

Jack

Do you run a Cat 2 pin through a link on the implement? How do you attach the chain to the end of the hydraulic top link?
 
I kind of home brewed it. I used a hitch pin to go through the toplink that is long enough for my purpose. I put a cat 8 washer on each side of the link. I then use 2 D-Links, one on either side of each washer. I then use more washers to fill in the rest of the hitch pin so it does not slide . I attach the 2 D-links the 2 end links of a chain. I have another D link attached to the middle of the chain. It is that D-link that I attach to the pin through the implement. Again, I use washers on either side so there is not a lot of left/right sliding.

This thread has some pics: http://www.habitat-talk.com/index.php?threads/hydraluic-toplink-transfered-from-qdma-forum.5539/

I've played around with the length of the pin and such since then, but you can see the general concept in those pics.

My tractor is a DK45 and it has a cat 2 hitch.

Thanks,

Jack
 
BTW, if I had to do it a gain, I would probably get one a bit shorter. It has more length than needed when extended, but I wish it was a bit shorter when retracted. That is particular to my application and tractor but it shows how I wish I had taken more time choosing the size.

Thanks,

Jack
 
I've never had an issue with mine dropping anything. One thing you need to consider is how you will use it. There is a range from the shortest position to longest that you specify when you buy one. One of the things I use mine for a large mower and a seed drill both of which are 3-pt implements. I put a short length of chain between the implement and the top link. This allows me to shorten the top-link to pick up the implement rear higher off the ground for transport. When using the implement, I lengthen it until there is slack in the chain. This allows the implement to "float" on the ground. A 3-pt drill typically leaves gaps when going over uneven ground where a tow behind "floats" and follows the contour of the ground better. With my setup, the 3-pt drill works like a tow-behind for operation and a 3-point for transport.

If you are going to use it like this, you need to figure out the right length for both the shortest position of the toplink, the longest position, and the length of chain you will use.

Thanks,

Jack
Brilliant. Gonna try that with the Firminator.
 
I've never had an issue with mine dropping anything. One thing you need to consider is how you will use it. There is a range from the shortest position to longest that you specify when you buy one. One of the things I use mine for a large mower and a seed drill both of which are 3-pt implements. I put a short length of chain between the implement and the top link. This allows me to shorten the top-link to pick up the implement rear higher off the ground for transport. When using the implement, I lengthen it until there is slack in the chain. This allows the implement to "float" on the ground. A 3-pt drill typically leaves gaps when going over uneven ground where a tow behind "floats" and follows the contour of the ground better. With my setup, the 3-pt drill works like a tow-behind for operation and a 3-point for transport.

If you are going to use it like this, you need to figure out the right length for both the shortest position of the toplink, the longest position, and the length of chain you will use.

Thanks,

Jack
I recall reading about this before and it makes a lot of sense. The Woods seeder I just got actually has a floating top link connection to solve exact what you’re describing. There’s a slot that allows the top link to slide back and forth or float as you go over uneven ground. Unfortunately I’m unable to take advantage of that if I want you use my quick hitch, which I do. Quick hitch only works with the fixed top link location. I could rig it up to work like yours in the floating position though.
 
I want to buy one for my 65hp JD. It will be cat 2. What do I need to look for. I have a couple implements that weigh 1900 to 2400 lbs on the 3pt. I also road the tractor ten miles to one tract of land and I dont want the cylinder dropping the equipment in the highway. Do I need check valves?
I had mine outfitted from the dealership with whatever one they thought would be best for my applications (the implements I told them I was going to be using). I love it and I can tell it’s going to be a game changer when using the PSS84.
 
I had mine outfitted from the dealership with whatever one they thought would be best for my applications (the implements I told them I was going to be using). I love it and I can tell it’s going to be a game changer when using the PSS84.

The PSS84 isnt quite the beast to hook up as some other large pieces of equipment. Since the two pins that hook to the bottom links are removable - it gives a little margin for error When hooking up. But, I could see a top link helping when hooking up anything if you didnt have a quick hitch.

For those with a cab tractor - can you raise and lower your lift arms from outside the tractor?
 
I
The PSS84 isnt quite the beast to hook up as some other large pieces of equipment. Since the two pins that hook to the bottom links are removable - it gives a little margin for error When hooking up. But, I could see a top link helping when hooking up anything if you didnt have a quick hitch.

For those with a cab tractor - can you raise and lower your lift arms from outside the tractor?
I have a cab tractor and can raise and lower from the outside rear of the tractor. And I was talking more about the operation of the PSS84 being easier with the hydraulic top link, not so much hooking it up. The ability to adjust the angle of the implement on the fly is very handy.
 
I recall reading about this before and it makes a lot of sense. The Woods seeder I just got actually has a floating top link connection to solve exact what you’re describing. There’s a slot that allows the top link to slide back and forth or float as you go over uneven ground. Unfortunately I’m unable to take advantage of that if I want you use my quick hitch, which I do. Quick hitch only works with the fixed top link location. I could rig it up to work like yours in the floating position though.
I just got a Woods this spring also, I don’t use a quick hitch and I have always used the float slot. I got the FPS84 and I am loving it so far!
 
I just got a Woods this spring also, I don’t use a quick hitch and I have always used the float slot. I got the FPS84 and I am loving it so far!
I am going to plant millet with it this week...been excited to try it out and I’ve got about an acre ready for a quail/dove/pheasant/songbird plot. I would much rather use that float top link but don’t want to remove my quick hitch to hook up. I can definitely see how that floating top link would be pretty slick. I think I could rig up some strapping or a chain like Yoder Jack to use the floating top link but haven’t had near enough time to fool around with it yet.
 
I'm shopping for one as well. Question: To what degree will it effectively provide and hold down pressure?
 
I don’t think a hydraulic top link increases the pressure the implement exerts on the ground. That is still governed by the weight of the implement. Your lower 3pt arms are still “floating.”
 
Thank you sir.
 
I don’t think a hydraulic top link increases the pressure the implement exerts on the ground. That is still governed by the weight of the implement. Your lower 3pt arms are still “floating.”

I agree. My toplink does not budge from the position I extend it to, but it is not designed to increase down pressure. For example, if I use it with a box blade, I can adjust the back/forward angle without leaving the cab. It holds the position where I leave it while the box works, but it is the weight of the box blade that provides the downward pressure.

Thanks,

Jack
 
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