All Things Habitat - Lets talk.....

This is a sample guest message. Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

How to get this Rusted Part off my Spreader

Freeborn

5 year old buck +
I am trying to remove the agitator from my Lely spreader and I am thinking I need a tool (puller of some type). I am trying to remove the top cap that slips over the end/top of the rod on this agitator. The cap is rusted and I have soaked it many times with WD 40 and tried a claw hammer and crow bar without luck. I don't need it for my use but would like to remove it without wrecking anything if possible. If I have to I will have it cut off by the local weld shop.

Here are a couple photos.






 
Heat the piss out of it with a torch!
 
Heat the piss out of it with a torch!
Another thing to do after getting it really hot is cool it really fast. The sudden shock often will break things free. I use this trick all the time at work.
 
Should I try and remove it while it is hot or wait until it cools? I don't have a torch with me so I'll have to try another day.

I beat the heck out of this thing and got it to budge ever so slightly but that's it.
 
Slide hammer?
 
Heat around that top cap and when you think you have put enough heat to it, take a brass block and a hammer and smack the top of that rod. Do not hit it directly with the hammer or it will distort and cause more issues.
 
What's wrong with it
 
What's wrong with it
Depending on the material it is very difficult to get the ground drive to turn/operate as the agitator causes so much friction. Using it now I have to take a running start and throw the engagement lever to get enough momentum for it to work. I just need to lesson the friction.
 
what are u trying to spread that isn't working?
 
Should I try and remove it while it is hot or wait until it cools? I don't have a torch with me so I'll have to try another day.

I beat the heck out of this thing and got it to budge ever so slightly but that's it.
If only heating try while it hot. If you use the heat/cool shock method right after the fast cool.
 
If you need it off now, I would try to heating it before cutting it off.
If it is not critical to get it off right now, get some real penetrating oil like pb blaster or deepcreep (good) or kroil (best) (how in the world WD40 got the rep as useful is beyond me). Spray it down real good and beat it with a hammer a few times whenever you walk by it. Don't break anything though! Using this method be patient, it took time for it to rust there and it will take time to get it loose.
 
If you need it off now, I would try to heating it before cutting it off.
If it is not critical to get it off right now, get some real penetrating oil like pb blaster or deepcreep (good) or kroil (best) (how in the world WD40 got the rep as useful is beyond me). Spray it down real good and beat it with a hammer a few times whenever you walk by it. Don't break anything though! Using this method be patient, it took time for it to rust there and it will take time to get it loose.

I don't need it until next year so I have plenty of time. Where would I buy Kroil?

Thanks
 
You can order direct from here ...

http://www.kanolabs.com/

I use aero kroil (the spray kind). Antique tractor guys use kroil to free seized pistons in old engines.
 
Perfect, I'll give that a try before anything else.

Thanks!
 
What does that thing look like, I see wood? Is it meant for fertilizer? Homemade? It's got use to it, so u would think something has worked going through it. I'm wondering if the drive gear isn't your problem.
Looks like those agitators are secured by those 4 bolts anyway, did u take those out?
 
SiliKroil is some good stuff.
 
I mix Kroil with another solvent to clean gun barrels. Good stuff.

If you got it to move a little....then you have a gap to get some Kroil or other solvent in there to start working.
 
Another option is 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone. Proven as the best "rust buster" by Machinists Workshop in controlled testing. Our shop guys have spray bottles of this stuff everywhere. Results of their tests:
Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen

No Oil used ................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix............53 pounds
 
Top