Help with weeds

[BuckSutherland]

Got back to the farm to see the pigweed took it's turn germinating. In a month it was 1-2' tall. I hit it hard with chemical as you can see it starting to wilt. Mid August I'll go up and till it up again and plant winter rye. This summer should have gotten a lot of the seed bank knocked down if nothing else.View attachment 25090

ROFLMFAO!!! You think you knocked the seed bank down? That is comical. You have taken about 5 steps backwards this year. I can see all kinds of escapes from that photo. By the time you get back up there in August your gonna have plenty of extra seed added to your seed bank. I'll say it again for the third f******g time since you didnt hear it the first two times I mentioned it. "You need residual chemicals to never let the shit germinate, and hit your escapes when they are SMALL." I'm sure all the neighboring farms love all those super resistant weeds seeds blowing all over Ottertail county. What a train wreck.

 

[homerj]

Buck...what residual chemicals should a foodplotter use?

 

[willy]

homerj, here is a place you perhaps can buy the pre emergent Buck refers to. Authority First https://www.keystonepestsolutions.com/authority-first-herbicide-10-pounds-792

I'm not sure if you need to have a license to buy it though. Try to keep eyes in socket when you see the price. You have to buy a large quantity but it will last years if you only have a couple acres. It breaks down to around 30 bucks an acre if you use recommended amounts.

The pre emerg I use are metribuzin and prowl h2o just prior to planting or at planting. Then 3=4 weeks after planting I use fomesafen (a herbicide with the name star in it has this ingredient) and it has worked well on my rup resistant weeds along with a dual magnum 2 generic.

The only weed I seem to have a problem with is velvet leaf still coming up after the pre.

Next year the plan is to use liberty soybeans on a couple acres of bean plots along with the above pre emergs and see if there is any noticeable difference.

 

[BuckSutherland]

Buck...what residual chemicals should a foodplotter use?

Go and talk to a local farmers coop in the area. Most of the suppliers in my area would sell you what you need as long as its not a restricted use pesticide like atrizine. Instead of buying a 10# box of authority first (4-5oz needed per acre) they would probably sell you what you need. A local supplier is also gonna know what the resistant weeds in your area are and what is gonna be the best option. Dont go in the spring or fall when they are swamp. Plan ahead and get your stuff before they get busy.


Willy,

If you really want to have something next year either use Asgrow Xtend Flexi beans (Round up, Dicamba and Liberty) or Enlist beans. (Roundup, 2-4d, Liberty).

 

[Nova]

ROFLMFAO!!! You think you knocked the seed bank down? That is comical. You have taken about 5 steps backwards this year. I can see all kinds of escapes from that photo. By the time you get back up there in August your gonna have plenty of extra seed added to your seed bank. I'll say it again for the third f******g time since you didnt hear it the first two times I mentioned it. "You need residual chemicals to never let the shit germinate, and hit your escapes when they are SMALL." I'm sure all the neighboring farms love all those super resistant weeds seeds blowing all over Ottertail county. What a train wreck.

The only thing comical here is your arrogance! Mr. cleanest fields, greatest yields in north America. You have a very limited history with the property, zero info on soil type, not a clue what I sprayed or at what rate and you can diagnose a field from a cell phone picture on the internet? Run your mouth all you want keyboard cowboy, I am not listening to a word of it.

I realize the title of the thread is asking for help, but I have told you multiple times, I don't have the budget for high dollar seed(Liberty) or 5 different types of high dollar chemical. So I am going at it a different way. I couldn't give 2 shits if you like it or not. As far as spreading resistant seed all over Ottertail county, the farmer that leases the 55 acres right next to this plot is on board with my plan and he has been farming for over 30 years and actually knows something about the area, the soil, and what I am applying. You were already wrong once when you said the plot will be full of waterhemp in a few weeks and you are wrong again. Every plant in this plot is deader than hell per a report from yesterday. I'll have a clean plot to plant into come mid August.

 

[BuckSutherland]

You have money to own a bunch of property in Ottertail county, but dont have money to buy a $35-40 bag of LL soybeans or spend $15-20 acre for a bean pre emerge??? You can spend all kinds of money to run a tiler through it and do recreational spraying of your giant super weed patch??? Those things are all free?? If you had the slightest bit of intelligence you could have done something that actually works and saved yourself on the number of passes your are doing. Its gonna cost you more per acre to keep doing what your doing than to do something that actually works.

I said the plot would be full of waterhemp after you tilled your giant ragweed, and that is EXACTLY what happened your picture proved it 100%. Now you spent a bunch of money again spraying, ****ing around thinking you killed all the weeds. Doubtful you got all the small ones underneath, and the big ones will most likely shoot new growth right out the top. Your seed bank is so ****ing full you have no clue, and next time you till you will bring millions of fresh seeds per acre to the surface and it will just keep happening. Since you have no residual (cause you cant afford them) out there what is gonna stop the next flush of weeds from coming with all the rain?? I dont need to be in Ottertail county to know shit about your soil to know that you have RR resistant giant ragweed and waterhemp, but you insist on calling it pig weed. Soil type doesnt have a ****ing thing to do with resistant weeds. You cant even identify the problem correctly, I've been dealing with the problem first hand for damn near 10 years. And you wanna talk about arrogant?? Why dont you tell me a few more times how I should run my land and food plots, and share my experiences. But by all means, keep showing us all how its done..

 

[trampledbyturtles]

Shut it buck, no one likes a know it all.

Take your 40 acre showcase plot back to the coop if you want a pat on the back. Anyone can crank out 250bu/A corn 80 bu beans. Just depends on how far down the rabbit hole u wanna go.

 

[Baker]

Here is a different perspective... I don't mind weeds in my summer annual food plots. I'm growing crops for deer not commercial sale and don't need my plots to look like a commercial farmer. I no till with heavy multi specie plantings and while there are weeds present they have not become a problem...at least in the last 10 years. Interestingly I'm apt to find deer browsing on some weed species right next to beans or peas etc.

Secondarily, We don't eat foods drenched in poisons around our house so I'm not keen on drenching the foods I grow for wildlife with poisons. Just a little eccentricity of mine. To each his own.

 

[Baker]

Nova, at the risk of redundancy , here is a video I did earlier this year on growing food plots for deer. Might be a different approach than some consider but maybe you will find value. I also did a video on the planting techniques I use which is posted in the property tours section under " farm and ranch life" if you have any curiosity for a different approach. Happy to show some of the deer we grow if you have any questions if the approach works.

 

[Rit]

This is starting to sound like the foodplots are worthless thread

 

[Tree Spud]

The only thing comical here is your arrogance! Mr. cleanest fields, greatest yields in north America. You have a very limited history with the property, zero info on soil type, not a clue what I sprayed or at what rate and you can diagnose a field from a cell phone picture on the internet? Run your mouth all you want keyboard cowboy, I am not listening to a word of it.

I realize the title of the thread is asking for help, but I have told you multiple times, I don't have the budget for high dollar seed(Liberty) or 5 different types of high dollar chemical. So I am going at it a different way. I couldn't give 2 shits if you like it or not. As far as spreading resistant seed all over Ottertail county, the farmer that leases the 55 acres right next to this plot is on board with my plan and he has been farming for over 30 years and actually knows something about the area, the soil, and what I am applying. You were already wrong once when you said the plot will be full of waterhemp in a few weeks and you are wrong again. Every plant in this plot is deader than hell per a report from yesterday. I'll have a clean plot to plant into come mid August.

Nova ... I and many others probably in same situation as you. Only at the property on weekends so weather plays a roll in what I can do. Have just tried RR beans for the past year and had 2 acres last year consumed with pigweed. I have to disk some before I plant as I have an old Van Brundt seed drill which is not real efficient unless I do some soil prep.

This year I was much more focused on the field with the pigweed and got ahead of it. Planted my RR beans May 12th, did one spraying before planting on emerged weeds, one in early June. Did my 3rd Gly spraying last weekend as the pigweed had re-emerged in about 20% of the field after the first 2 treatments. My sprayer is a 15 year old Fimco with a 10' boom strapped in the back of my Kawi mule.

I stopped worrying about having a perfect weed free foodplot that looked as smooth as my living room carpet. Always amazed at the weeds that keep showing up every year, this year in the middle of my north 5 acre plot, I have 5 asparagus plants that sprouted up. In addition to wind blown and other sources, weed & grass seed is also brought in by the deer as they travel to the plot.

The RR beans have made a big difference. I can spray after they have started growing to knock back the weeds. This keeps the water & nutrient competition down, but also allows better success for over-seeding red clover, WR, & brassicas late summer.

I am sure I would get demerit points for the above from the judges, but I still enjoy the work.

Good luck with your plot!

 

[Bill]

I'm a bit behind in keeping up with things. Kinda on call 24/7 this time of year.

Buck nothing wrong saying you think a guy is going about things wrong. But there is a right way to say it and a wrong way. You picked the latter in this case. As is always the case when it turns ugly any constructive criticism will be dismissed 100% of the time even if it's good advice.