As for Tordon - it has a lasting residual soil effect, which may kill surrounding trees & plants. Our state forester recommended Triclopyr 4 (generic Garlon = cheaper) and diesel mixed together for hack & squirt, as well as basal spraying for that reason. That mix has killed everything we sprayed with it - with no residual soil effects to kill anything we didn't want killed. This mix fried barberry, AO, and TOH out of existence.What chemical is recommended? I have used remedy and tordon before. Can it be done in summer? I basal sprayed some elms early but did kill them
Interesting as everything I read about Triclopyr 4 was it was no good for H&S, but worked well for basal bark applications. Wonder if what it's doing is really just basal bark treatment with a little help. I don't understand why it's not supposed to work, but what do I know.Our state forester recommended Triclopyr 4 (generic Garlon = cheaper) and diesel mixed together for hack & squirt, as well as basal spraying for that reason. .
NY State? PA isn't that far, right?Can't buy Garlon/Triclopyr 3 in my state, can't make "Craig Harper's cocktail" without it.
(for that matter, I can't buy Tordon in my county)
I end up using straight Glyphosate in a squeeze bottle with a dash of Imazapyr. It's wasteful, but it's been working okay.
We went by what our state foresters told us - not shooting down Dr. Harper at all. The TOH we hacked & squirted last early September using triclopyr 4 & diesel died pretty quick, and are still dead. Same for basal spraying of AO and barberry. We had to get those invasives killed for a USDA / NRCS EQIP program so our money could be released. That mix is what our foresters told us to use. It worked for us. Gly was used on ferns and stilt grass.Guys. Craig Harper is who all the state foresters learn from. He is the best there is. Professor at university of Tennessee who has done studies to prove or disprove habitat work. If he promotes it it is because he has done a study to prove it works, not just anecdotal evidence.
Adding diesel to hack and squirt is not necessary and may make it work less. The oil is help carry the chemical through the bark and cambium layer. With hack and squirt or girdle and squirt you are accessing that layer mechanically already.
I’m sure your forester is great. No disrespect to him.We went by what our state foresters told us - not shooting down Dr. Harper at all. The TOH we hacked & squirted last early September using triclopyr 4 & diesel died pretty quick, and are still dead. Same for basal spraying of AO and barberry. We had to get those invasives killed for a USDA / NRCS EQIP program so our money could be released. That mix is what our foresters told us to use. It worked for us. Gly was used on ferns and stilt grass.
Blue dye is available to color any sprays we might use, to let any of us know what & where we already sprayed. We wasted some time & spray before we started using dye. Many chemical vendors handle the blue dye - a little goes a long way!!I guess WHAT you're killing matters as well.
Part of the issue is time. I keep using straight Gly, even though I'm wasting lots of it, because it works for me (mostly anyway, still have trees that survive). But if I switch to something else, and it doesn't work, it will be next spring before I know that it didn't work.Lot of work and more importantly a lot of time wasted.
This past weekend I did some trees with a diluted solution I could actually spray. I was "stump" spraying some brush with it and figured I'd use up the rest of it on H&S to see if it worked. I'll say, actually spraying it is easier/faster than the squeeze bottle, and used waaay less product.
However the test is already a failure, as after four days of H&S off and on, I have no recollection of which trees got which strength.
I'd love something "cheaper", possibly faster and more effective.