GP/LP 3P600 or 3P606NT user thread

[Foggy47]

Yep......but if you move the press wheels up it should then be about the same depth but cutting level IMO. How deep are your openers cutting now?

Edit; If you look closely at the openers.....they are most narrow when positioned level and will cut more effectively (deeper) when the drill sits most level. Pulling them at a slight angle compromises this most narrow slice into your soils and straw. I realize this is a slight difference.....but just like a coulter cuts best when shiney.....it all adds up.

 

[Foggy47]

^ A good analogy for what I am getting at might be: Consider pulling a knife edge through some material....now turn the blade so that the back side (blunt side) is used. The sharp edge will cut far easier and deeper while the blunt side may "ride up".....especially with limited weight / down pressure. Trivial? Maybe.....

 

[Wind Gypsy]

If you zoom in on the setup you can see a 9" torpedo level on the big seed box.

That being said, you are correct, it wasn't level. When I set the drill down with the 3 pt arms, when it was level I was getting inconsistent ground contact with the drive wheel. After playing around with the hydraulic top link, I couldn't find a happy medium very easily where the drill was level and still got consistent drive wheel contact. I believe this is because my ground is hard and the cutting wheels weren't penetrating. I'm not sure if this means I'm short on weight or I need to make some other adjustments, open to ideas on this?

I feel like an extra 400 lbs of weight could help the cutting wheels get a little deeper but also there are likely some other settings I should play with.

I think more weight is the best answer.. even with my little 3’ 2100# esch, it was a little unbalanced because the drive wheel and gears are on one side. 80# of tractor weights on the light side made a huge difference in getting the light side rows in the ground.

 

[Foggy47]

I think more weight is the best answer.. even with my little 3’ 2100# esch, it was a little unbalanced because the drive wheel and gears are on one side. 80# of tractor weights on the light side made a huge difference in getting the light side rows in the ground.

At one time I had planned to hang a couple of suitcase weights I have on each side of the drill. I have not needed more weight to get 'er done on my soil.....but I may be at my land later today and I have this idea on how to hang weights. If I do get to my land...I will try to show an example of the idea I have for a weight bracket(s). Pretty simple.

 

[Wind Gypsy]

At one time I had planned to hang a couple of suitcase weights I have on each side of the drill. I have not needed more weight to get 'er done on my soil.....but I may be at my land later today and I have this idea on how to hang weights. If I do get to my land...I will try to show an example of the idea I have for a weight bracket(s). Pretty simple.

Please do, because my method wasn't something I want to make a habit of haha!

 

[swat1018]

I would start with the drill level, if it's skipping, move the drive wheel. The row units are designed to plant and cover seed when running level. Most of us have had to lower the drive wheel a hole or two from factory settings.

 

[Brian662]

I would start with the drill level, if it's skipping, move the drive wheel. The row units are designed to plant and cover seed when running level. Most of us have had to lower the drive wheel a hole or two from factory settings.

Factory was setting 4 and I moved it to setting 6. If you believe the manual (I do), then lowering the wheel for more ground contact will stop the openers from going deeper. I agree the drill wants to be level but the inability of the openers to pentrate my soil is the problem IMO.

 

[Wind Gypsy]

Factory was setting 4 and I moved it to setting 6. If you believe the manual (I do), then lowering the wheel for more ground contact will stop the openers from going deeper. I agree the drill wants to be level but the inability of the openers to pentrate my soil is the problem IMO.View attachment 67705

Yeah, I don't think I'd want to go to #7 where it says you only get 1/8" opener depth. Even 5/8" isn't much.

 

[Foggy47]

OK....this may be a bit crude, and may vary depending on the weights you use. I have a good quantity of JD suitcase weights. Mine are 2 3/4" thick and weight 70 lbs, IIRC. The "hat section" shown here would hold two on each side of the drill. Thus adding as much as 280 lbs of weight. (alternately you could use some "Z" sections of appropriate size and hang one weight from each Z section. A local welding shop with a brake could make these brackets for pretty cheap.....or if you can weld you could just weld some 3 x 6 tubes on each side. <---I would not do that as it may destroy the re-sale value......unless you are a good welder. (Also, keep in mind that if you mount the bracket to go over that shaft you would need to allow clearance for the shaft.)

I had not made up my mind where I would mount the brackets. It was hot in my shed and I decided to get out. I'll let the pics tell the story.

 

[Foggy47]

Looking at the pics I posted above......I beleive I would mount two Z Sections on either side to hold 4 suitcase weights. I'd put one in the lower front....and locate the other behind that shaft that drives the seed cups. Both would retain the suitcase weights without further fasteners. It would likely look cleaner and they could both face the "right way" in my mind.....and not snag branches or debris. Easy / peasy.

Keep in mind...the more forward you mount the weights on the drill.....the easier it will be for your tractor to lift the weight.

 

[Brian662]

Yeah, I don't think I'd want to go to #7 where it says you only get 1/8" opener depth. Even 5/8" isn't much.

Correct and I'm in the situation now where if I move it back to #5 I am only going to have a bigger problem with drive wheel/ground contact. Either have to use the drill when the soil is softer or add more weight, I believe those are my only options at this point.

 

[Brian662]

Looking at the pics I posted above......I beleive I would mount two Z Sections on either side to hold 4 suitcase weights. I'd put one in the lower front....and locate the other behind that shaft that drives the seed cups. Both would retain the suitcase weights without further fasteners. It would likely look cleaner and they could both face the "right way" in my mind.....and not snag branches or debris. Easy / peasy.

Keep in mind...the more forward you mount the weights on the drill.....the easier it will be for your tractor to lift the weight.

I like it, I will want my weights as close to the location of my double disc openers as possible. Also they won't stick out any further off the side of the drill than my lights do already so no real risk of snagging on trees or fences.

 

[Foggy47]

OK...glad you like it. Send two box tops from your Post Toasties....and Ten Dollars to the Deertopia Proving Grounds, C/O Foggy's blue prints, Pequot Lakes, MN. BR549. Grin.

If you do this.....take a pic. Good luck Brian! Also, gotta say....my drill goes deeper as the blades get a bit of shine on them. When I got mine the blades were a bit rusty.....and seemed to ride up more. Don't underestimate a good shine on "tillage" tools.....but I agree that having enough weight will be of a big help.

 

[Brian662]

OK...glad you like it. Send two box tops from your Post Toasties....and Ten Dollars to the Deertopia Proving Grounds, C/O Foggy's blue prints, Pequot Lakes, MN. BR549. Grin.

If you do this.....take a pic. Good luck Brian! Also, gotta say....my drill goes deeper as the blades get a bit of shine on them. When I got mine the blades were a bit rusty.....and seemed to ride up more. Don't underestimate a good shine on "tillage" tools.....but I agree that having enough weight will be of a big help.

"Check is in the mail" as they say.


Only problem is, do you trust the post office?

 

[swat1018]

GP has weight brackets as a purchase option when you order a drill. Have you guys looked at their design?

 

[Foggy47]

GP has weight brackets as a purchase option when you order a drill. Have you guys looked at their design?

We have. They dont work on the 3P500 or 3P600.. They will work on the no till models tho.

 

[Brian662]

OK....this may be a bit crude, and may vary depending on the weights you use. I have a good quantity of JD suitcase weights. Mine are 2 3/4" thick and weight 70 lbs, IIRC. The "hat section" shown here would hold two on each side of the drill. Thus adding as much as 280 lbs of weight. (alternately you could use some "Z" sections of appropriate size and hang one weight from each Z section. A local welding shop with a brake could make these brackets for pretty cheap.....or if you can weld you could just weld some 3 x 6 tubes on each side. <---I would not do that as it may destroy the re-sale value......unless you are a good welder. (Also, keep in mind that if you mount the bracket to go over that shaft you would need to allow clearance for the shaft.)

I had not made up my mind where I would mount the brackets. It was hot in my shed and I decided to get out. I'll let the pics tell the story.

View attachment 67706
View attachment 67707View attachment 67708View attachment 67709View attachment 67710

Fab shop is in session today. These are my weights. Will have it welded on by mid next week.

 

[omicron1792]

Fab shop is in session today. These are my weights. Will have it welded on by mid next week.View attachment 67769

You built that. Thats cool.

 

[Foggy47]

Fab shop is in session today. These are my weights. Will have it welded on by mid next week.View attachment 67769

Those are very heavy weights. Only need one on each side with those. I'd consider a couple of 1/2" bolts to carry those big weights. Anxious to see your work.

 

[Brian662]

Fab shop in progress...

They don't stick out past the lights which is important. Small engineering error so one weight has to be inverted which shouldn't be a problem. Very happy with it. Tomorrow we drill.