GP/LP 3P600 or 3P606NT user thread

I set the t-handles to the third or fourth slot on the shallow end this year. Seemed to be about right.

How’d it go?

Edit to add, I leave all down pressure springs to factory settings. My logic being that if you set any to be stiffer, that reduces the down pressure available to all other rows and down pressure seems to be a limiting factor for me with these drills.
I have left all the springs and press wheels alone (press wheels are two notches from all the way forwrard). I simply adjusted that drive wheel to get the right depth and then use the top link to tweak it perfect. I use a level to check the drill from side to side and front to back. Then....I can see by movement of the hydraulic top link (with small tweaks) when the pressure is near neutral......and that works for me. Then, I watch the drive wheel to make certain it functions correctly.

Ive tried to alter things a bit with the press wheel settings......but find the settings I have seem good. I do not find any variation in the depth wheel settings due to ground compaction variations.....as I have firm, sandy soil. Now, and further tweaking is done via the hydraulic top link (if any).
 
I set the t-handles to the third or fourth slot on the shallow end this year. Seemed to be about right.

How’d it go?

Edit to add, I leave all down pressure springs to factory settings. My logic being that if you set any to be stiffer, that reduces the down pressure available to all other rows and down pressure seems to be a limiting factor for me with these drills.
I chickened out because for the first time since April we don't have any appreciable rain in the forecast for the next 7 days. I'll probably give it a shot on Monday and hope for some rain next Wed/Thursday (next forecasted chance).
 
Took the day off work to get caught up on a few things, got the drill calibrated for NW Whitetails sweet feast and crimson clover.
I think it will be sufficient for the small seeds but I need to get deeper when I plant my bigger seed blends in a few weeks.

This worked good for me on the 3 row calibration cups20240823_133540.jpg20240823_133546.jpg

I think my double discs were ccutting about 1/2" in most spots but my soil is pretty compacted at the moment. It did a great job of knifing through the dead rye thatch. Most seeds fell in trench and were pushed down by press wheels. Overall pretty happy for first run.

Might either add weight or move drive wheel from 6 to 5 for the bigger seeds.
20240823_135355.jpg
After calibration

20240823_141410.jpg
The rig with the food plot pinch and blind.
 
Took the day off work to get caught up on a few things, got the drill calibrated for NW Whitetails sweet feast and crimson clover.
I think it will be sufficient for the small seeds but I need to get deeper when I plant my bigger seed blends in a few weeks.

This worked good for me on the 3 row calibration cupsView attachment 67612

I think my double discs were ccutting about 1/2" in most spots but my soil is pretty compacted at the moment. It did a great job of knifing through the dead rye thatch. Most seeds fell in trench and were pushed down by press wheels. Overall pretty happy for first run.

Might either add weight or move drive wheel from 6 to 5 for the bigger seeds.

After calibration


The rig with the food plot pinch and blind.

You've got those press wheels set pretty deep. I would have guessed with that setting and if openers are only getting 1/2" deep that you wouldn't have any notable pressure on the press wheels?
 
You've got those press wheels set pretty deep. I would have guessed with that setting and if openers are only getting 1/2" deep that you wouldn't have any notable pressure on the press wheels?
That was the factory setting and when the drill was in the ground they felt like they had down pressure but I didn't play with them at all.

The soil was hard and dusty even under the rye thatch.

One thing that was a little concerning was that I calibrated 6 lbs of sweet feast and 6 lbs of crimson combined for 12 pounds. The small seed box setting of "50" came right in at 12 lbs/acre. According to my acre meter I drilled 1.2 acres and still had a little seed left in the seed box...not ideal. Any ideas?
 
That was the factory setting and when the drill was in the ground they felt like they had down pressure but I didn't play with them at all.

The soil was hard and dusty even under the rye thatch.

One thing that was a little concerning was that I calibrated 6 lbs of sweet feast and 6 lbs of crimson combined for 12 pounds. The small seed box setting of "50" came right in at 12 lbs/acre. According to my acre meter I drilled 1.2 acres and still had a little seed left in the seed box...not ideal. Any ideas?

My drill has a little different style of acre meter than yours and it is wrong in the opposite direction (reports fewer acres) so i'm not of much use there. I will say i'm not a big fan of the small seed box (or at least the way mine is) because its just level all the way across without having funnels for the seed meters that settles seed so when you get to the end of a hopper its pretty easy for some rows to not be getting seed.
 
Took the day off work to get caught up on a few things, got the drill calibrated for NW Whitetails sweet feast and crimson clover.
I think it will be sufficient for the small seeds but I need to get deeper when I plant my bigger seed blends in a few weeks.

This worked good for me on the 3 row calibration cupsView attachment 67611View attachment 67612

I think my double discs were ccutting about 1/2" in most spots but my soil is pretty compacted at the moment. It did a great job of knifing through the dead rye thatch. Most seeds fell in trench and were pushed down by press wheels. Overall pretty happy for first run.

Might either add weight or move drive wheel from 6 to 5 for the bigger seeds.
View attachment 67613
After calibration

View attachment 67614
The rig with the food plot pinch and blind.
That looks just like my rig!
 
My drill has a little different style of acre meter than yours and it is wrong in the opposite direction (reports fewer acres) so i'm not of much use there. I will say i'm not a big fan of the small seed box (or at least the way mine is) because its just level all the way across without having funnels for the seed meters that settles seed so when you get to the end of a hopper its pretty easy for some rows to not be getting seed.
Mine is beveled but not funneled. It has three "boxes" of three (9 rows) and each box has a separator that has 1/2" opening on the bottom for seed to flow between the boxes. I'll take a pic if I remember when I get a chance.

Fwiw, I ran 3 calibrations of .1 acres and when it was done the acre meter read .2 acres. Due to the fact that it under reported my calibrations, I was surprised there was seed left after planting.
 
I took my acre meter off and put it on the shelf. Not sure they won't steer you wrong.
 
Perhaps it's just an illusion, but you don't look level to me. Looks nose down, a little. That takes a fair amount of pressure off the press wheels.
If you zoom in on the setup you can see a 9" torpedo level on the big seed box.

That being said, you are correct, it wasn't level. When I set the drill down with the 3 pt arms, when it was level I was getting inconsistent ground contact with the drive wheel. After playing around with the hydraulic top link, I couldn't find a happy medium very easily where the drill was level and still got consistent drive wheel contact. I believe this is because my ground is hard and the cutting wheels weren't penetrating. I'm not sure if this means I'm short on weight or I need to make some other adjustments, open to ideas on this?

I feel like an extra 400 lbs of weight could help the cutting wheels get a little deeper but also there are likely some other settings I should play with.
 
Perhaps it's just an illusion, but you don't look level to me. Looks nose down, a little. That takes a fair amount of pressure off the press wheels.
I think that’s about as level as it gets. Anymore rear tilt @Brian662 and the drive wheel skips.
 
My drill has a little different style of acre meter than yours and it is wrong in the opposite direction (reports fewer acres) so i'm not of much use there. I will say i'm not a big fan of the small seed box (or at least the way mine is) because its just level all the way across without having funnels for the seed meters that settles seed so when you get to the end of a hopper its pretty easy for some rows to not be getting seed.
Finished laying my brassicas in/on the ground last night and took a pic of the small seed box.
20240825_203952.jpg20240825_204003.jpg
 
I think that’s about as level as it gets. Anymore rear tilt @Brian662 and the drive wheel skips.
That's exactly what I was running into when trying to maintain "level". I do think if I can get better ground penetrative with the cutting wheels that I can get a little closer to level.
 
That's exactly what I was running into when trying to maintain "level". I do think if I can get better ground penetrative with the cutting wheels that I can get a little closer to level.
Tip on the small seed box.

1. Always put in more seed than you need. Can get spotty towards the bottom

2. Make sure you turn right and left in field. If you always turn one direction all the small seed will accumulate on one side and it gets spotty
 
That's exactly what I was running into when trying to maintain "level". I do think if I can get better ground penetrative with the cutting wheels that I can get a little closer to level.
Agree. I use hydraulic top link to get it as close as possible to level without skipping.
 
I think you may want to move that drive wheel down one more hole. Then perhaps adjust your closing wheels up a bit. I think it would be more level. How heavy is your soil? Dry or wet?
 
I think you may want to move that drive wheel down one more hole. Then perhaps adjust your closing wheels up a bit. I think it would be more level. How heavy is your soil? Dry or wet?
Soil is moderate loam but she was pretty hard this time of year. It is very dry, I'd be interested to see how it cuts with some soil moisture. Between the rye thatch and the hard ground it was tough sleeding for this style drill.

If I move the drive wheel down, isn't that supposed to plant shallower?
 
Soil is moderate loam but she was pretty hard this time of year. It is very dry, I'd be interested to see how it cuts with some soil moisture. Between the rye thatch and the hard ground it was tough sleeding for this style drill.

If I move the drive wheel down, isn't that supposed to plant shallower?
Yep......but if you move the press wheels up it should then be about the same depth but cutting level IMO. How deep are your openers cutting now?
 
Yep......but if you move the press wheels up it should then be about the same depth but cutting level IMO. How deep are your openers cutting now?
Initially I thought 1/2" but I'd say closer to 3/8".

Planting my cereal blend in another week or so and I'd like to get them in a little deeper.
 
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