C'Mon Foggy - I think you've got one more left in you. Please put me on the waiting list for a "Foggy Foamer"^ I found that foam marker kit two years ago.....when it was on a "Fall Sale" on line. I remember thinking it was quite a deal as the price of a foam marker set up is not particularly "cheap". Somewhere I once saw a guy that made a marker system using shaving cream cans and the mechanical means to push the release via a pull cord and pulley system. I think you can still find that set-up on line.
If I were younger and needed to make some money.....I may develop a self contained electric solenoid that could be attached to a can of saving cream and electrically triggered to press that button on top. The foam would be directed thru a tube to mark the spot. A $150 gadget like that could sell pretty well for weed spraying and grain drills, etc. Marketing via the inter webs and operate out of your basement. I like it. "FOGGY FOAMER" TM Reg USPO 2023.....grin. Then......if I could make it to just fit the foggy foamer replacement cans......I could "give 'en the razor and sell them the blades".....so to speak. Works for Gillette. lol
(I did patent over 25 gadgets in my lifetime.....my wife says I am all done.)
Send $100 deposit money to the care of the Deertopia Proving Grounds, QDMA Headquarters Building, Pequot Lakes, MN. BR549. This will hold your spot on the waiting list.C'Mon Foggy - I think you've got one more left in you. Please put me on the waiting list for a "Foggy Foamer"![]()
Send $100 deposit money to the care of the Deertopia Proving Grounds, QDMA Headquarters Building, Pequot Lakes, MN. BR549. This will hold your spot on the waiting list.
I started out with a used JD 790 that had a decent loader on it and was in real nice shape. Paid $10,000 for it. Got along with it ok....but it was really hard to position for use with my stump grinder due to the gear shift......which really needed a HST transmission. Upgraded to a JD 3320 HST......and was pretty satisfied with that tractor for many years. I ground over 3000 (lost track maybe 4000??) stumps out of my trails and food plots with that grinder. The bug caught up with me and I decided I needed a CAB with HVAC. No going back now.I am just jealous of y'alls tractors man! Nice setups guys!![]()
I have the side shift on mine and I use it that way quite a bit. Allows me to get a bit wider on trails and roads.....and closer to buildings and parked implements when mowing. One thing it does do tho....is require adjustment for weight on the right when side shifted as the extra weight makes is hang lower on the right than when centered. I do try to find a "happy medium" as I do not adjust for the different operation modes (a tilt cylinder on the three point would make it easy). I get along with it pretty well......and I really like the safety and mulching and even spread produced by the fail mower.Questions on your flail mower. I am considering one of those. We have a lot of long rows of tree tubes that require maintenance for 3 yrs or more. My bush hog sticks so far back that turning is risky. Do you have a side shift? I think I would one with a centered fix position. Having it stick out to the right seems problematic to me.
Thanks,
Thank you. What HP tractor and mower width do you have? I have 13,000 native trees in rows, they cover about 45 acres. I'm a little undersized with the tractor (L3901), but a bigger machine would be hard to operate in tight conditions. I think the flail mower would save me a lot of time and accidental tube grindings! I have some slopes where the return trip with the mower off centered would be a hazard. So I think I'll try to find one that is centered. Even most fixed units are off-center.I have the side shift on mine and I use it that way quite a bit. Allows me to get a bit wider on trails and roads.....and closer to buildings and parked implements when mowing. One thing it does do tho....is require adjustment for weight on the right when side shifted as the extra weight makes is hang lower on the right than when centered. I do try to find a "happy medium" as I do not adjust for the different operation modes (a tilt cylinder on the three point would make it easy). I get along with it pretty well......and I really like the safety and mulching and even spread produced by the fail mower.
I still have a rotary cutter....but have not used it since getting the flail mower 3 years ago.
I have a 38 HP tractor.....which in reality puts out about 30 PTO HP as the hydro and cab air rob some HP. The flail mower is by Woodmaxx and it's a 78" wide model with the side shift hydrualic cylinder. I'd buy it again for my needs. They also offer a centered version for less money. Woodmaxx had a good reputation with the folks on Tractor By Net (or had one .....the last time I read about them). I had planned to get hammers but instead got the flail knives......as that was all that was available at that time. I'm happy with the knives.....and have gone thru up to 3" saplings with the unit (tho not a steady diet). I bought an extra set of belts and an extra set of knives when I purchased the unit. Shipping was prompt.Thank you. What HP tractor and mower width do you have? I have 13,000 native trees in rows, they cover about 45 acres. I'm a little undersized with the tractor (L3901), but a bigger machine would be hard to operate in tight conditions. I think the flail mower would save me a lot of time and accidental tube grindings! I have some slopes where the return trip with the mower off centered would be a hazard. So I think I'll try to find one that is centered. Even most fixed units are off-center.
Tedd
I did buy a pliers from Amazon that arrived today. It's spring loaded and has some grooves in two directions that can better catch those hose clamp "ears". Wish it would have showed up sooner as I had a heck of a time re-installing those hose clamps that are attached to the drop tubes. Thanks for the tip Omni.
Here is the one I bought. Seems to do the job just fine.Do you have a link for these pliers? Had a heck of time with our county’s drill this spring.
I’ve got the ROPS version of foggys tractor and the non side shift version of his flail mower. Very happy with both. When going through willows and really thick fibrous grass the tractor is a little low on HP for that 6’ mower but a guy just has to slow down a bit.Thank you. What HP tractor and mower width do you have? I have 13,000 native trees in rows, they cover about 45 acres. I'm a little undersized with the tractor (L3901), but a bigger machine would be hard to operate in tight conditions. I think the flail mower would save me a lot of time and accidental tube grindings! I have some slopes where the return trip with the mower off centered would be a hazard. So I think I'll try to find one that is centered. Even most fixed units are off-center.
Tedd
Agree. I'm always surprised how much power it takes to run a mower......and how much power it takes to run at high speeds with a tractor. Seems odd.....as they have so much pulling torque.....yet can be bogged down by these things. When I was buying a tractor....the L3860 with a Cab was about the biggest tractor I could buy that would fit under a 10 foot high door.......or I may have bought the next larger tractor. Still, I am happy with the power I have and the implement sizes I own are right for my property.I’ve got the ROPS version of foggys tractor and the non side shift version of his flail mower. Very happy with both. When going through willows and really thick fibrous grass the tractor is a little low on HP for that 6’ mower but a guy just has to slow down a bit.
Much of my land has some degree of thatch.....but the higher areas are now toast. Low ground holds a bit more moisture.....and the clover there is hanging on pretty good.Foggy, do you have a thatch layer already from last year? I believe you do if I remember you were rolling last year already. Are those spots with last year's rolled rye thatch hanging on, or are they getting toasted too?