Early Planning for North Texas Place

IkemanTx

5 year old buck +
OK, This was my pre-emptive thread I started over on QDMA before they lost their heads... Projected start time is 2020 for me to have the lease.

I was bit by the habitat bug several years ago, but am just getting to where I can devote a little time and money towards it. My wife and I plan to either buy or lease my mother's 42 acres of what used to be my Great-Grandmother's farm. The time frame we are looking at is taking over management of the property in 2020. The rancher that currently leases the place put a bit of work into fences, seed, and chemicals a few years ago, and I want him to have time to re-coup his investment. My mother has always had this "dream" of building cabins for us kids out there, so is hesitant to outright sell it to me (she admits she probably never will, just doesn't want to stop dreaming). But we have already gotten the OK for leasing. Since all this is only 4 years away, that means my planning and research has already started (and tree planting on a small scale is already occurring). The access for the property really couldn't be any better situated. It is almost center on the north border. This area's primary wind direction is out of the SE for most of the hunting season. I don't plan on this property ever being my primary hunting spot, as the area it is in has VERY low deer densities (until the last few years, my neighbor to the west hadn't seen a deer in over a decade). The population is slowly starting to rise because ranchers are starting to let less productive fields sit fallow now that the last generation of subsistence farming in the area are either passing, or too old to maintain the levels of production they once did and properties are getting broken up more and more and pulled from cattle production completely. A recent switch to the county's antler restrictions, along with reduced Doe harvest times, is also allowing populations to grow that have been stagnant for 4 or 5 decades. I would like to catch the rise in population as I build the cover and food availability over 5 or 10 years.

A little about the place... My mother's portion is just a hare over 42 acres, and quite open. My aunt has the other 27 acres bordering to the west. A decade ago, the only trees on the property were consolidated to a single north/south ridge on the south of the place, and a TINY east west line of trees on the west fence line. Fortunately, pretty much every fence line is now filled with scrub trees or cedars at least 10 or 12 feet tall. They aren't a food source, but do act as great screening to separate small portions. There is currently cattle on the place, but will not be once I take it over. This area, and especially this specific property, will need just about everything but water added. No cover, and no food exists currently save some old Burr oaks on the previously mentioned ridge.

Here is the overview of the area


A bit closer


And a close-up


There are 2 ponds on the place, and this sat pic was taken during the only single time they have gone dry in 80 years. There is also a creek that flows to the north and has a Y coming from both the east fence line, and the property south of us. The field in the south and center is by far the best farmable ground on the property.

My plan is to plant cover, in the form of warm season grasses (such as bedding in a bag). This will have fire breaks of clover around about each 2-2.5 acre chunk. I will be adding about 8-10 acres total of mast producing trees, so 500ish trees minimum. I will probably plant at a closer spacing to mitigate drought loss, which may put actual planted trees up to 1000. I will also be planting between 4 and 7 acres of food, split between multiple locations and food types. The rocky area west of the north/south ridge will not be planted in anything due to poor soil and erosion issues, it will be left fallow. Same goes for the rocky portion of field at the northeast corner. Below is what I am considering most right now. Although White oaks do have a specified destination plot (hard to see, but it is the white polygon just south of dead center), they will also be mixed in with the locations labeled "hard mast mixture". The sawtooth, white oak, and chestnut specific stands will be planted into clover. I hope to keep that clover dominant for 6 or 7 years via mowing and cleth/gly spot spraying.


Obviously there are 2 glaring holes that don't have plans yet. I have yet to decide what to do with the empty space west of the creek, and the larger area east of the creek that adjoins the east pond. On the larger spot, I want to design a compartmentalized network of cover and micro food plots (1/4 acre or so) to increase daytime activity on the place. I am just having a hard time figuring out a layout that would be huntable without increasing percieved pressure. The spot to the west of the creek is pretty wet/soggy in the spring and winter. I haven't decided what I want to plant there to tolerate that.
Let me know what you think, design changes I could make, entry and exit improvements for plot or tree plantings and so forth. Fortunately, I have a few years to put the plan into action, so nothing is set in stone.
 
Also included over "there"

I am debating only planting out 5 acres or so of the 10.77 acres designated for "cover" and trying to either GLY or burn the rest. I don't know if the cost savings would justify the headache of trying to force a native stand back out of a bermuda grass field. Also, I don't know how much native seed remains in the seed bank after 60-70 years in non-native grass.

As far as proportions, of the 42 acres

10.77 is listed for cover
8.32 acres are currently designated for mast tree plantings
4.3 acres are going to be allowed to regenerate naturally (too rocky to plant)
5.3 acres of food plots
and the rest is currently unplanned, but will include some mix of shrubs/trees/plots as well.

Am I pretty close, or do I need to increase one resource a good bit?

I have also noticed a lot of tree plantings in MUCH higher densities than I expected. I was planning on planting with a spacing just smaller than mature diameter. (i.e just closer than an orchard planting, 25ish feet for hardwoods). On these higher density plantings, is it assumed that thinning will occur later, or is the survival rate just assumed to reduce the final densities to a more desirable level for mast production?

And, In reference to reversing the plan to put the cover in the center instead of on the outsides where it is currently mapped)

That was my original thought, but the center of the property sits lower than the rest of the property. I typically don't find much bedding on the low ground in our area. Also, if I put the cover on the high ground (where I feel they will prefer bedding anyways) and put the food sources down in the center of the property, they may stay on the property just long enough for the sun to set. Also, I am afraid that as wet as much of the center stays, I will be very limited in the cover I could plant, as well as the food sources I could actually grow on the rockier, thinner soil high ground.

This property has many quirks that will be interesting to deal with. The soil is black gumbo on top of white rock (and sometimes exposed white rock). In two of the small fields, my great-grandfather put clay pipe French drains in the 40's to make them tillable. Those have essentially completely stopped functioning and the fields can get pretty soggy during the winter and early spring. I am planning on planting oaks tolerant of wet feet in those areas.

Another benefit I thought might happen is that by compartmentalizing the bedding cover, I might end up with multiple doe groups bedding on the place instead of one dominating the central bedding design.

I am very new as well, and there are probably a thousand better ways to do it than what I have drawn out. Just trying to match up soil/water properties with the best matching plant type.
 
That's a heck of a project you have there.
 
Thanks for posting. I have the same family situation going on currently. With a mother who thinks like yours, nothing wrong with that line of thinking. My mother wants everything to stay the same as it was when she was a kid and for everyone to share it. The problem from someone who wants to be a land manager is that really handicaps your planning and goals, as more than likely no one else has the same vision as you. As time permits I will look at your project a little more closely, one thing that has been said repeatedly in the past fill the biggest hole in habitat first. If security cover is limited in your area fill that hole first, lack of food in the area fill that first..... "make" the deer want to use your area. Also I highly recommend calling your local NRCS or NRD office about grass mixtures for your area, they can tell you what grass mixes will likely give you the best bang for your buck. Pun intended! Welcome to HT.
 
Kinda off track, but I have some trees I started from acorn at home on the back porch. I started 2 pin oaks, a sawtooth, and a persimmon in #3 Superoots Airpots (3gal equivalent). Aside from a really hot spell killing off the leading tips of the pin oaks, the only problem I have had is the loss of media from the containers when I water. Is this normal with most air pruning pots, or did I really set myself up for it by not starting in a smaller container and transferring into the bigger ones? I'm not too concerned with losses, as I just started them on a whim and those pots will have peppers in them next year anyways.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Give a shout to Jack on here he is one of the growing in a pot experts.
 
Great project looks like it's going to keep you busy.
 
I have had the same splashing problem, as well as the time it took to really get them soaked. Spent a fairly long time "getting around to" putting in a fairly elaborate watering system and it never happened. A 2 week out of town trip forced me to do something so my neighbor could water without standing there for 30 minutes like I do. 30 minutes and less than $30 later I had a watering system. It is not fancy or timed but I simply turn the faucet on for 45 minutes 2 times a week and the trees are happy.Wish I had done this two years ago when I had 80 or so trees.

IMG_0968_zpsachstdwa.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
IMG_0968_zpsachstdwa.jpg
 
Top