Belchertown Bowman
5 year old buck +
Ya know I thought of looking into these type of cameras,.. then I saw this thread with 168 pages,..
It changed my mind!
It changed my mind!
Cuddeback's Cuddelink
- Thread starter Peplin Creek
- Start date
ormsbybrian
A good 3 year old buck
I have never used Indoor, but have found Close/Medium works great in the woods. Far was too much and washed out many details when I tried it out to around 25'+. On a food plot your mileage may very, but I would start with Medium and I think you will be very happy! I have found that the cameras aren't as sensitive to angle of view and height with strobe as they are with IR/BF.
No-Tox
5 year old buck +
How high does everyone hang their camera? I just set mine up on Sunday and have it probably 4'-5' high. I recieved the batch pics overnight of me setting up the camera and walking around the food plot. Since then, I have only recieved a report but no pics. It simply could be that nothing has come by to trigger it but I didn't know if possibly I have it up to high?
FredG
5 year old buck +
The safest set is to have the height of the cam roughly equal to the center of mass of your intended target and the camera pointing parallel to the lay of the land, but a slight tip down (about 2 degrees) is often beneficial for night exposure reasons. If you set too high and/or aim too high you are likely to create an "animal alley" in the foreground that just won't detect well. The vertical angle of view of the PIR sensor is only about 10-12 degrees so it's pretty easy to set too high and have your detection zone pass over your target's head in the closer ranges. To help visualize where the vertical trigger zone is relative to a picture, the hot zone is roughly the middle one third of the frame.
Bpressley
5 year old buck +
I replaced the batteries on the dead K cam yesterday on the way to hunt. After my hunt and not receiving any pics, I checked the cam again. It was powered on but said it was locked. I removed the batteries, reinstalled them, powered it on, and sent a test email. It worked. I hung it again and moved to a evening stand to hunt. I know the K cam and a J cam on the network took my pic but never received a pic from either or any timelapse pics/pics in queue. This morning I still haven't received any report. I'm going to pull this cam next week and send it in. Something is definitely wrong. Tomorrow I'm going to grab my other K cam that is being used as a standalone and swap it with faulty K when I head back to hunt that area. It sucks but sometimes stuff like this happens, oh well.
Below are most of the Cuddeback acronyms, with some descriptions, that may be seen when you view a picture’s MetaData/Exifdata.
Credit to Mr. FredG. Thanks
MR = Memory Register (C.1 for camera #1 register?... begs the question if there are other registers hidden)
AD = Activation Date (the activation date of the camera... warranty period start date)
LD = Lapsed Days (the number of days from Activation Date to present)
RD = Run Days (the number of days the camera has been armed and active)
LH = time Lapse Hours (the lifetime hours the camera has been in time lapse mode)
LI = Lifetime Image count (the total number of PIR trips and/or time lapse triggers)
BT = Battery Terminations (the total number of times the internal batteries have been pulled)
BL = Battery Level in milivolts (the actual under load battery voltage at the time pic taken) this value may vary up or down.
BP = Battery Power (remaining battery power in %... not as accurate as the voltage above. 99%, 90%, 75%, 50%, 25%, etc) this value may vary up or down.
BS = Battery Source (Internal or External) While running a Cuddepower this will tell you when it switches from External to Internal batteries.
BD = Battery Days (the number of days the internal batteries have been in the camera)
BI = Battery Images (the power use adjusted number of images taken on the batteries with day pic=1 and flash pic=5
IR = Infra Red power (for non-capacitor driven IR flashes like the dual flash on G & K models and Red or Black IR on J models this shows the percentage of maximum power delivered to the IR array... this flash power will diminish as batteries deplete; for the Power House flashes this value will always read "Indoors"... PowerHouse flashes are driven by super capacitors and will always fire at 100% power regardless of battery level)
CF = IR Cut Filter (IR cut filter position... ON/OFF)
WL = IR Wave Length (850nm or 940nm)
EX = EXposure pattern (commands menu Zone setting for active exposure metering area... Wide/Centered)
ID = Camera ID
LO = Link Order, represented by number (ex. 002)
SM = Setup Menu (EZ, Advanced, Surveillance) and Prime Time with firmware version 7.7
DD = Day Delay
DI = Day Images, Pictures per detection (1-5 image burst) (not available when CL mode is on with firmware version 7.7)
DV = Day Video (OFF, 10 sec, 20 sec, 30 sec... not available to select when CL is on)
DL = Day time Lapse
ND = Night Delay
NI = Night Image, Pictures per detection (1-5 burst) (not available when CL mode is on with firmware version 7.7)
NV = Night Video (OFF, 10 sec, 20 sec, 30 sec... not available to select when CL is on)
NL = Night time Lapse
Unique to white flash strobe module:
SP = Strobe Power ("Indoors"/100 ISO, "Close"/320 ISO, "Medium"/1000 ISO, "Far"/3200 ISO)
LF = Lifetime Flash (lifetime strobe cycles... both flashes firing equals one cycle)
Credit to Mr. FredG. Thanks
MR = Memory Register (C.1 for camera #1 register?... begs the question if there are other registers hidden)
AD = Activation Date (the activation date of the camera... warranty period start date)
LD = Lapsed Days (the number of days from Activation Date to present)
RD = Run Days (the number of days the camera has been armed and active)
LH = time Lapse Hours (the lifetime hours the camera has been in time lapse mode)
LI = Lifetime Image count (the total number of PIR trips and/or time lapse triggers)
BT = Battery Terminations (the total number of times the internal batteries have been pulled)
BL = Battery Level in milivolts (the actual under load battery voltage at the time pic taken) this value may vary up or down.
BP = Battery Power (remaining battery power in %... not as accurate as the voltage above. 99%, 90%, 75%, 50%, 25%, etc) this value may vary up or down.
BS = Battery Source (Internal or External) While running a Cuddepower this will tell you when it switches from External to Internal batteries.
BD = Battery Days (the number of days the internal batteries have been in the camera)
BI = Battery Images (the power use adjusted number of images taken on the batteries with day pic=1 and flash pic=5
IR = Infra Red power (for non-capacitor driven IR flashes like the dual flash on G & K models and Red or Black IR on J models this shows the percentage of maximum power delivered to the IR array... this flash power will diminish as batteries deplete; for the Power House flashes this value will always read "Indoors"... PowerHouse flashes are driven by super capacitors and will always fire at 100% power regardless of battery level)
CF = IR Cut Filter (IR cut filter position... ON/OFF)
WL = IR Wave Length (850nm or 940nm)
EX = EXposure pattern (commands menu Zone setting for active exposure metering area... Wide/Centered)
ID = Camera ID
LO = Link Order, represented by number (ex. 002)
SM = Setup Menu (EZ, Advanced, Surveillance) and Prime Time with firmware version 7.7
DD = Day Delay
DI = Day Images, Pictures per detection (1-5 image burst) (not available when CL mode is on with firmware version 7.7)
DV = Day Video (OFF, 10 sec, 20 sec, 30 sec... not available to select when CL is on)
DL = Day time Lapse
ND = Night Delay
NI = Night Image, Pictures per detection (1-5 burst) (not available when CL mode is on with firmware version 7.7)
NV = Night Video (OFF, 10 sec, 20 sec, 30 sec... not available to select when CL is on)
NL = Night time Lapse
Unique to white flash strobe module:
SP = Strobe Power ("Indoors"/100 ISO, "Close"/320 ISO, "Medium"/1000 ISO, "Far"/3200 ISO)
LF = Lifetime Flash (lifetime strobe cycles... both flashes firing equals one cycle)
One thing I learned, if camera is in any process, ie: booting up, taking a picture, transmitting a picture or checking CL, do not disrupt the process. I have had to pull batteries to reset some as well (not just Cuddee's). I read somewhere that if you pull SD card during processing to the card, it could possibly permanently corrupt card. When I change cards I alway's, under COMMANDS - "Clear" (formats card) and also under LINK- "CC Clear" which clears the transmit queue.
Definitely some quirks with all makes and model's of camera's. But I like your attitude. "oh well" lol
Last edited:
No-Tox
5 year old buck +
Do you have it set to send pictures before the overnight batch?
FredG
5 year old buck +
Another instance where you may have to pull the batteries to do a hard reset on the camera is when you change flash modules on G or K models. If you don't give the camera a chance to re-initialize the firmware from the ground up you may not have certain menu items available that should otherwise be there or you may get erroneous symbols on your data bar. I've learned to just make it a matter of course when changing flash modules just to be sure the change is fully recognized.
Spot on Fred. I hate to admit it, but I got frustrated and threw 2 good Cuddeback camera's away a couple of years ago. Later, I learned that the SD cards would not work at all if they were formatted in my old Mac and then put them in the camera's. The batteries would be dead. But IMO, there was no place for camera to store them as the card would not store them. Bought countless new cards and would get pictures 1 time only. I suspect that is the issue a lot of the time.
Matter of fact, as we speak I am analyzing my camera's, as they haven't taken a picture other than TL in 4 days since changing all batteries and cards. From 100-400 pic/day to zero on 7-8 camera's. Odd's are against all camera's having a fault at the same time. Odd's are pretty favorable that is is human error on my part. My brother read and cleared card's for me so I suspect that may be the issue. Sometimes he had to try 2-3 different card readers before it would read. Maybe a card reader related issue?? I also used these same card's in some older camera's?? Never missed a beat before this last change. I don't know what the camera's logic defaults to if the SD card is an issue. Maybe the logic tells it to not take a picture, or maybe it actually takes picture and SD card cannot store it?? I suspect the Report and the Metadata obtain information from the SD card?? "oh well".....
Written by Digicamhelp Editor
Causes of memory card corruption
- Turning off a camera before an image is completely written to the memory card.
- Removing the memory card from a camera while an image is being written to the card.
- Removing the card from a memory card reader while files are still being transferred to a computer.
- Batteries conking out as files are being transferred directly from the camera to a computer. Note: always make sure you have fully charged batteries before transferring images.
- Removing the card from a card reader while folders and files from the card are open on a computer.
- Opening, deleting, renaming or moving files on the card while its contents are open on a computer.
- Using a memory card which has not been formatted in the camera. Use the delete/erase function when needed, however a card should be regularly formatted.
- Formatting a card in a computer instead of the camera. Formatting a memory card in a computer can slow down data processing when it’s used in the camera. With some memory cards, formatting via a computer may result in compatibility and operational problems. [Related reading: Why format a memory card]
- Inserting a second memory card into a card reader before closing and removing the first when viewing images on the card from a computer.
- Taking photos when camera batteries are nearly empty.
- Taking photos too rapidly so the camera can not complete writing one image before starting the next.
- Continually shooting and deleting, shooting and deleting images when the card is full.
- Letting a memory card get too full before downloading the images to a computer or storage device. Cards that are too full may overwrite the card headers.
- Using a memory card from one camera in a different camera without formatting it in the new camera first.
Bpressley
5 year old buck +
Every hour
JLemon
5 year old buck +
I have 3 DB Strobe. All 3 are in the woods and are run on medium I believe.
Attachments
Jrozzi16
5 year old buck +
I have a j series that just died had 12 lithium and 6 ds lasted 23 days and took 308 pics. There a chance the booster is not functioning ? Is there a way to check this? I know when the voltage is the same an ext does not show up on report but obviously 23 days is low.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Bpressley
5 year old buck +
With the camera empty (no batteries), put batteries in the booster and plug it into the camera. The camera should power on.
Jrozzi16
5 year old buck +
Look at BL in the MetaData on your last pic. This represents your voltage. Also, for some reason, if you put internals in first, it immediately start up on internals and will not recognize the externals. Remove all batteries, press some buttons to discharge capacitors, put in the externals first, then internals.
I recommend all good Alkaline’s. I use Rayovac’s and have 1 camera that’s been out since June.
JLemon
5 year old buck +
On a remote or Cell?
Natty Bumppo
5 year old buck +
I've seen this thread over the past few years or so and never clicked on it. Today I got curious as to how this thing has reached 169 pages. Not sure I want to spend the time reading the entire thread, but I am curious as to why members have been discussing these cameras for 2 years and 169 pages. Would anybody be kind enough to summarize the 2 or 3 salient points that emerge about these cameras?
