• If you are posting pictures, and they aren't posting in the correct orientation, please flush your browser cache and try again.

    Edge
    Safari/iOS
    Chrome

Crabapple timeline

I reckon I'll take my chances and leave my 2 BH crabs like they are with the graft 2-3 inches above ground , instead of burying them ....after seeing this


That link is pretty much how I plant trees. Not sure if it applies to all trees, but it's my general method.
 
My rationale for burying grafts is:

1. I am in Michigan’s elk range. I want vigorous trees that will grow out of their reach, and as rapidly as possible.

2. We also have bears. I hope to have trees that will someday be large enough so that bears do not totally destroy them.

3. If voles, mice or rabbits girdle my trees I want a chance that root sprouts might be from the scion variety.

4. I hope for trees that will endure for generations, and I have several seedling trees that I believe are at least 80 years old, and perhaps much older than that.

Unfortunately, many of the trees that I see are simply grafted too high to make burying the grafts practical.

My first two reasons are less important with trees produced on full-sized RS, like those from Blue Hills. But trees from big box & farm stores that I’ve seen are often on semi-dwarf or unknown RS. I have no use for trees on dwarfing RS, except as scion donors.

I’ve been planting apples & crabs this way for 35 years when the grafts are low enough, and it has worked for me. But I have extremely light, sandy soils. Perhaps it would be less successful in heavier soils or in clay, I do not know.

I am not saying that burying grafts is right for everyone. But in my situation I believe that the benefits outweigh the disadvantages.
 
Last edited:
My rationale for buying grafts is:

1. I am in Michigan’s elk range. I want vigorous trees that will grow out of their reach, and as rapidly as possible.

2. We also have bears. I hope to have trees that will someday be large enough to so that bears do not totally destroy them.

3. If voles, mice or rabbits girdle my trees I want a chance that root sprouts might be from the scion variety.

4. I hope for trees that will endure for generations, and I have several seedling trees that I believe are at least 80 years old, and perhaps much older than that.

Unfortunately, many of the trees that I see are simply grafted too high to make burying the grafts practical.

My first two reasons are less important with trees produced on full-sized RS, like those from Blue Hills. But trees from big box & farm stores that I’ve seen are often on unknown RS. I have no use for trees on dwarfing RS, except as scion donors.

I’ve been planting apples & crabs this way for 35 years when the grafts are low enough, and it has worked for me. But I have extremely light, sandy soils. Perhaps it would be less successful in heavier soils or in clay, I do not know.

I am not saying that burying grafts is right for everyone. But in my situation I believe that the benefits outweigh the disadvantages.
Interesting advice for your light sandy soils.
 
Of course non of this applies to me because Im done planting fruit trees!🤣
Me, too. I mean, me was. Well I am done as of today.

Luke had some small Prairie Sensationn on dolgo that I couldn’t pass up. I told him how I struggled with tree tubes 30 plus years ago and how the trees wouldn’t harden off by fall.

He also has vented tubes so I followed his suggestion. Plant and tube. Sink the tubes at least four inches in the ground. Then pull the tubes in late summer. I will window screen and fence then.

I thought I had lots of trees. I would estimate he has 3x on his hunting ground. Better soil and more wind protection than my location. I am expecting to have to tie some of these trees to conduit when I pull the tubes.

He is in wooded hills. I am in open ag, former prairie lands. I had a 20 minute tour of his set up. Impressive.
IMG_2061.jpeg
Well, I am done planting trees….. for now.
 
I’ve planted over 100 fruit trees from both WC and BH (and others) and had the grafts above ground in North Central PA and the only 3 trees I’ve lost in 5 years have been from stupid voles…
It's amazing what those little b'trds can do to trees. Once a tree gets a few years of growth & gets established, even bears don't usually do enough damage to kill a tree - but voles can kill a full-grown tree without protection. In winter - everything edible is fair game to voles & mice.
 
It's amazing what those little b'trds can do to trees. Once a tree gets a few years of growth & gets established, even bears don't usually do enough damage to kill a tree - but voles can kill a full-grown tree without protection. In winter - everything edible is fair game to voles & mice.
One of them was a three year in the ground Wolf River that I was expecting fruit on that year till I noticed it kinda tipping sideways an when I went to move it the whole dang thing popped out of the ground! My little guy was with me and may have learned a new phrase or two that day…
 
One of them was a three year in the ground Wolf River that I was expecting fruit on that year till I noticed it kinda tipping sideways an when I went to move it the whole dang thing popped out of the ground! My little guy was with me and may have learned a new phrase or two that day…
I'm a little pissed for you with that experience. Deer decided they would "trim" a bunch of my evergreens this year for some reason. 15 year old trees that they never touched before this year. Still pissed about it.
 
Back
Top