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Crabapple timeline

I reckon I'll take my chances and leave my 2 BH crabs like they are with the graft 2-3 inches above ground , instead of burying them ....after seeing this


That link is pretty much how I plant trees. Not sure if it applies to all trees, but it's my general method.
 
My rationale for burying grafts is:

1. I am in Michigan’s elk range. I want vigorous trees that will grow out of their reach, and as rapidly as possible.

2. We also have bears. I hope to have trees that will someday be large enough so that bears do not totally destroy them.

3. If voles, mice or rabbits girdle my trees I want a chance that root sprouts might be from the scion variety.

4. I hope for trees that will endure for generations, and I have several seedling trees that I believe are at least 80 years old, and perhaps much older than that.

Unfortunately, many of the trees that I see are simply grafted too high to make burying the grafts practical.

My first two reasons are less important with trees produced on full-sized RS, like those from Blue Hills. But trees from big box & farm stores that I’ve seen are often on unknown RS. I have no use for trees on dwarfing RS, except as scion donors.

I’ve been planting apples & crabs this way for 35 years when the grafts are low enough, and it has worked for me. But I have extremely light, sandy soils. Perhaps it would be less successful in heavier soils or in clay, I do not know.

I am not saying that burying grafts is right for everyone. But in my situation I believe that the benefits outweigh the disadvantages.
 
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My rationale for buying grafts is:

1. I am in Michigan’s elk range. I want vigorous trees that will grow out of their reach, and as rapidly as possible.

2. We also have bears. I hope to have trees that will someday be large enough to so that bears do not totally destroy them.

3. If voles, mice or rabbits girdle my trees I want a chance that root sprouts might be from the scion variety.

4. I hope for trees that will endure for generations, and I have several seedling trees that I believe are at least 80 years old, and perhaps much older than that.

Unfortunately, many of the trees that I see are simply grafted too high to make burying the grafts practical.

My first two reasons are less important with trees produced on full-sized RS, like those from Blue Hills. But trees from big box & farm stores that I’ve seen are often on unknown RS. I have no use for trees on dwarfing RS, except as scion donors.

I’ve been planting apples & crabs this way for 35 years when the grafts are low enough, and it has worked for me. But I have extremely light, sandy soils. Perhaps it would be less successful in heavier soils or in clay, I do not know.

I am not saying that burying grafts is right for everyone. But in my situation I believe that the benefits outweigh the disadvantages.
Interesting advice for your light sandy soils.
 
Of course non of this applies to me because Im done planting fruit trees!🤣
Me, too. I mean, me was. Well I am done as of today.

Luke had some small Prairie Sensationn on dolgo that I couldn’t pass up. I told him how I struggled with tree tubes 30 plus years ago and how the trees wouldn’t harden off by fall.

He also has vented tubes so I followed his suggestion. Plant and tube. Sink the tubes at least four inches in the ground. Then pull the tubes in late summer. I will window screen and fence then.

I thought I had lots of trees. I would estimate he has 3x on his hunting ground. Better soil and more wind protection than my location. I am expecting to have to tie some of these trees to conduit when I pull the tubes.

He is in wooded hills. I am in open ag, former prairie lands. I had a 20 minute tour of his set up. Impressive.
IMG_2061.jpeg
Well, I am done planting trees….. for now.
 
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