Yes an English Setter
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- Thread starter sandbur
- Start date
I've often wondered how many pounds of apples/fruit a deer could eat in a day? I rarely ever see fruit on the ground at my place. End goal is to have an abundance so it is always available. Not sure how many trees that's going to take but should be well on my way.
bigboreblr
5 year old buck +
Whats the coldest big dog has seen?
I m wondering if the deer can eat all my apples once they're mature. 39 apple/crabapple, 2 peaches, 3 pears, severla mulberrys too. 6 acre parcel with 1/2 acre and 1/8th acre foodplot. Got 3 in the foodplot right now. Probably have about 10-12 deer visiting reguarly. Rarely a group over 5 at a time. Im thinking Ill have to do something with the excess apples. Might be selling pallet boxes of 2nds. Hopefully not to deer hunters. NY is no baiting state.
I m wondering if the deer can eat all my apples once they're mature. 39 apple/crabapple, 2 peaches, 3 pears, severla mulberrys too. 6 acre parcel with 1/2 acre and 1/8th acre foodplot. Got 3 in the foodplot right now. Probably have about 10-12 deer visiting reguarly. Rarely a group over 5 at a time. Im thinking Ill have to do something with the excess apples. Might be selling pallet boxes of 2nds. Hopefully not to deer hunters. NY is no baiting state.
sandbur
5 year old buck +
sandbur
5 year old buck +
sandbur
5 year old buck +
I feel that at some point, managers need to focus their plantings. Focus on plantings that drop during the highest stress period in their climates, focus on plantings that drop during the archery season and in locations conducive to that hunt, the same focus for firearms hunts. In some areas firearms hunts (as well as the distance from stand sites) is different that archery hunting locations.
In my location, winter into early spring is the prime stress period. Late droppers that are intended to help a deer through the winter need to be near conifer cover where the deer have ready access to it.
I am in mainly flatlands. Winter survival in hill country might mean the apple trees need to be near south slopes where deer more readily bed in the winter.
Other winter bedding sites might be a conifer windbreak that protects cat tails or willow/ tag alders thickets.
Plant specific apple trees in locations with a purpose. I failed to do that and just planted trees. It still has worked out pretty well. Planted spruce have provided the winter cover. This has also worked well for the firearms hunt.
For early season archery hunts, trees should have been planted differently. I no longer archery hunt and we have a smorgasbords of crops during early archery season.
In my location, winter into early spring is the prime stress period. Late droppers that are intended to help a deer through the winter need to be near conifer cover where the deer have ready access to it.
I am in mainly flatlands. Winter survival in hill country might mean the apple trees need to be near south slopes where deer more readily bed in the winter.
Other winter bedding sites might be a conifer windbreak that protects cat tails or willow/ tag alders thickets.
Plant specific apple trees in locations with a purpose. I failed to do that and just planted trees. It still has worked out pretty well. Planted spruce have provided the winter cover. This has also worked well for the firearms hunt.
For early season archery hunts, trees should have been planted differently. I no longer archery hunt and we have a smorgasbords of crops during early archery season.
bigboreblr
5 year old buck +
I think I messed up a bit at camp, too many later trees. Deer some years leave cam to winter a few miles down the road. This year planting will all be october early november crabapples. Our camp is getting more n more sightings of moose, no clue what they do in the winter up there. Lots of thermal cover spots from black spruce trees.
You're right on those spruce / conifer. I think a combination of spruce and white pine is nice. White pine provides cover for the early years, before the spruces are big enough. One of my biggest moves in PA public land is scout those fluke pine tree spots or lone trees. Very often a buck relaxing in one. The real trick is to wait or stalk in close enough to get them with a flintlock with open sights.
You're right on those spruce / conifer. I think a combination of spruce and white pine is nice. White pine provides cover for the early years, before the spruces are big enough. One of my biggest moves in PA public land is scout those fluke pine tree spots or lone trees. Very often a buck relaxing in one. The real trick is to wait or stalk in close enough to get them with a flintlock with open sights.
sandbur
5 year old buck +
That brings to mind old stories from my Dad and Uncle hunting in the 50’s and early 60’s in northern Minnesota. These were the days before tree stands. They often would stand under a lone white pine and the other would make some sort of a one man push. The clearing under a pine in thick brush or hardwoods was an attractant after leaf fall for both the deer and the hunter.
Second rambling story from an old fart here, I got the feeling that deer crossing a field, meadow, or very short clear cut will focus on a single pine or large oak that stands out on the other side. I have heard the same thing about an abandoned windmill in prairie areas. Hunting pressure changes everything , of course.
Bowsnbucks
5 year old buck +
Bingo!! I found the same thing years ago by accident. Paid more attention after that. Some of the areas I hunt are so thick with brush, scrub oak, & mountain laurel - a lone white pine actually forms what looks like an umbrella in that thick stuff. The area underneath is open pine needles for soft bedding. When I got under one of those, it seemed like a protected cocoon. Deer's dream-spot to hide. Find that situation on a gentle sunny slope = gold mine to watch.
bigboreblr
5 year old buck +
my treestand on the AG I hunt is like that. They got a 500 yard run to the neighbors woods and alfalfa field. There's an island of rocks n sumac trees they run to to take a stop and relook around. Popped a few freezer queens right by that island. 175 yards.
H20fwler
5 year old buck +
Same here in NW Ohio.
I’ve got over 200 fruit trees also along with thirty or so chestnuts and it’s rare to see any fruit or nuts on ground…just tramped down grass and weed circles around the trunks.
I planted a lot of later dropping fruit trees also early on and totally missed the late summer droppers. Those early ones get the deer trained to stop by and check trees. Trying to correct that oversight now.
I agree on conifers being a draw out in the open, I have some little islands of them planted out in the middle of our pasture that are magnets for deer.
bigboreblr
5 year old buck +
I have several antonovka rootstocks growing to maturity as early trees, as well as a few dolgo's, and a trail man or two. I got more wow'd by january and February droppers than the usual October and early November ones. I do have a few 30-06's and crossbow trees.
Likely this year I am grafting alot of what Sandbur has found or has planted on his property. big dog, courthouse, buckman, maybe some more courthouse. Some years deer are gone by early December and come back around early april late March. Much like elk do.
Likely this year I am grafting alot of what Sandbur has found or has planted on his property. big dog, courthouse, buckman, maybe some more courthouse. Some years deer are gone by early December and come back around early april late March. Much like elk do.
When does Courthouse drop by you?
bigboreblr
5 year old buck +
Jst planted it this year. Pretty sure that one is on anty. Got atleast a 5-7 year wait probably. 1st year or two of fruit won't be typical.
rocksnstumps
5 year old buck +
To answer a PM, here are a few updated pics of Franklin Cider on B118 from mid October. Tree was also mostly holding just last weekend but no pic. Note the leaves are pretty clean. In my location and soil not a problem area for fireblight and no B118 "lean disease". My soil is pretty light and short growing season. Just a guess but think if your land formerly/or could grow good ag crops that B118 might result in lean issues since the top portion with accelerated growth in decent soil and climate maybe gets ahead of the size of the roots. Or as someone else put it, the roots get "lazy". I would buy future trees on B118 no problem. Right now my top named trees still mostly holding fruit that aren't mummies or turned to mush are Enterprise, Honeygold, and a thumbs up for Franklin Cider (at least for wildlife)
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bigboreblr
5 year old buck +
Nice pics. I tend to prefer non red apples too. Some insects are atttracted to the color. I Will see in the near future, but yellow jacket issues should be lower too.
bigboreblr
5 year old buck +
I spent a few days looking at the whole 95 page thread here.
You mention using B118 bareroots as seedlings for pl ain jane orchard trees on the cheap. Still feel its a good idea?
Wild Azz and clowns nose, still like those trees? Looking to focus on october and november dropping trees for this years grafting in zone 3.
Any reference between frostibte or keepsake far as a deer apple? I saw you mention haralson a few times as a good apple. Any others you like, or would like to try? MY yates graft failed last year, might try that again.
You seem to not be fond of roundup spraying around the trees. I do that at home 3 or 4 times a year and maybe once or twice at camp. Spray got on too many lower leaves, or on the bark?
I got real heavy clay at home, but might give making my own seedlings a try. IF you could get siberian or dolgo easily, you'd do it again for grafting. Thinking my interest is more to see what genetic mix comes up, more than problems with antonovka in low pH. You got a decent pic of what the 1st year of growth looks like? Might buy 1 gallon root maker pots instead of in gorund nursery.
You mention using B118 bareroots as seedlings for pl ain jane orchard trees on the cheap. Still feel its a good idea?
Wild Azz and clowns nose, still like those trees? Looking to focus on october and november dropping trees for this years grafting in zone 3.
Any reference between frostibte or keepsake far as a deer apple? I saw you mention haralson a few times as a good apple. Any others you like, or would like to try? MY yates graft failed last year, might try that again.
You seem to not be fond of roundup spraying around the trees. I do that at home 3 or 4 times a year and maybe once or twice at camp. Spray got on too many lower leaves, or on the bark?
I got real heavy clay at home, but might give making my own seedlings a try. IF you could get siberian or dolgo easily, you'd do it again for grafting. Thinking my interest is more to see what genetic mix comes up, more than problems with antonovka in low pH. You got a decent pic of what the 1st year of growth looks like? Might buy 1 gallon root maker pots instead of in gorund nursery.
