Box scraper: How to determine what size

[Freeborn]

I have a need for a box scraper to do some road and yard work. I want to level the roads on my place as many have a center hump from farm equipment. I also have a need to spread material in certain areas. Finally I need to level some areas in my yard where my mower is scalping.

I have been looking at 5' and 6' scrapers and there is a large price jump on the 6'. What are the benefits or negatives when using a wider scraper?

Most the units look pretty standard so I don't see much difference in brands.

 

[foggy]

I have a need for a box scraper to do some road and yard work. I want to level the roads on my place as many have a center hump from farm equipment. I also have a need to spread material in certain areas. Finally I need to level some areas in my yard where my mower is scalping.

I have been looking at 5' and 6' scrapers and there is a large price jump on the 6'. What are the benefits or negatives when using a wider scraper?

Most the units look pretty standard so I don't see much difference in brands.

I own a 5 foot Box Blade. It just covers the rear wheels on my 3320. It can pull pretty hard when it gets filled with dirt from a driveway. If I were buying.....I'd buy a five footer again. I think a six'er could be too much load in hard soils.....you have enough power.....but it's a traction thing. Also you may not get a larger BB to penetrate hard soils too easily. (weight really helps)

My BB is an el'cheapo King Kutter which was painted JD green when I bought it. It will last a long time.

Partly, I like the size not extending beyond the rear tires......as mine doubles as my rear ballast when doing loader work. I have 600 lbs of suitcase weights hanging on the box blade (for rear ballast - but they also really make the BB dig on a hard road). The BB and weights provide ballast of about 800 lbs.

 

[Freeborn]

I own a 5 foot Box Blade. It just covers the rear wheels on my 3320. It can pull pretty hard when it gets filled with dirt from a driveway. If I were buying.....I'd buy a five footer again. I think a six'er could be too much load in hard soils.....you have enough power.....but it's a traction thing. Also you may not get a larger BB to penetrate hard soils too easily. (weight really helps)

My BB is an el'cheapo King Kutter which was painted JD green when I bought it. It will last a long time.

Partly, I like the size not extending beyond the rear tires......as mine doubles as my rear ballast when doing loader work. I have 600 lbs of suitcase weights hanging on the box blade (for rear ballast - but they also really make the BB dig on a hard road). The BB and weights provide ballast of about 800 lbs.

That make sense. Most of my work is moderate to light duty so I don't need anything to heavily built. After I get my primary work done this unit will probably sit allot unless like you I use it as a counter weight which is a very good idea.

Thanks!

 

[foggy]

That make sense. Most of my work is moderate to light duty so I don't need anything to heavily built. After I get my primary work done this unit will probably sit allot unless like you I use it as a counter weight which is a very good idea.

Thanks!

I've come close to buying a "proper" ballast box on a few occasions. Even with loaded tires and my box blade and suitcase weights.....the rear end can get a little squirrelly once in a while. I'm torn between acquiring a few more suitcase weights and buying a ballast box. The relatively compact Box Blade does a pretty good job for my needs....and I know that I am a bit light in the rear.....so I watch it when picking up the real heavy stuff.

Those 300cx loaders are really something! Amazing lift. I think they made them powerful enough to handle large bales for the horse people. I've thought about de-tuning my hydraulics a bit to lessen the lift capacity. o_O

 

[Riggsgwp->]

Does it have to be a box blade? I have one similar to this and I paid 65 bucks for it.
https://mankato.craigslist.org/grd/5232189339.html

 

[Freeborn]

Does it have to be a box blade? I have one similar to this and I paid 65 bucks for it.
https://mankato.craigslist.org/grd/5232189339.html

For my application I think a box blade is the way to go. I need something that will rip the ground while smothing out the surface. There are allot of them around but they seem to hold their value. I'd like to buy one by next spring so I have a little time to find a deal.

 

[tooln]

There is a BIG difference in a BOX blade and BACK blade. If you want to set a grade a back blade is for you. If you want to level high spots and move material then go with a box blade. Sounds like the box is best suited for what you want to do. I do like Foggy does and use my box blade for counter weight when doing loader work. Mine is a 6' from Fleet and it covers my wheel tracks by about 2" each side. There maybe a price between the 2 but I strongly suggest you get it to cover your wheel tracks. I got mine in the late fall on an unadvertised special. They were looking to clear them out before winter and I got it for $125 under normal price. The regular price was 624 & I got it for 500. I got real lucky and just happened to walk by the spot they have them advertised in the store and saw the price. I asked the guy if that was an mistake as I had been watch the price online. He told me it was right and unadvertised. So it sat at my place in the snow rather than their yard. I'd so some serious shopping in a month or 2.

 

[Freeborn]

There is a BIG difference in a BOX blade and BACK blade. If you want to set a grade a back blade is for you. If you want to level high spots and move material then go with a box blade. Sounds like the box is best suited for what you want to do. I do like Foggy does and use my box blade for counter weight when doing loader work. Mine is a 6' from Fleet and it covers my wheel tracks by about 2" each side. There maybe a price between the 2 but I strongly suggest you get it to cover your wheel tracks. I got mine in the late fall on an unadvertised special. They were looking to clear them out before winter and I got it for $125 under normal price. The regular price was 624 & I got it for 500. I got real lucky and just happened to walk by the spot they have them advertised in the store and saw the price. I asked the guy if that was an mistake as I had been watch the price online. He told me it was right and unadvertised. So it sat at my place in the snow rather than their yard. I'd so some serious shopping in a month or 2.

Looks great Tooln. Thats a good idea, I did not know Fleet had unadvertised sales. I need to stop out and see if they have any? Do you remember what month you purchased your blade?

 

[tooln]

Looks great Toolin. Thats a good idea, I did not know Fleet had unadvertised sales. I need to stop out and see if they have any? Do you remember what month you purchased your blade?

I didn't know they did it either. I just was in the right spot at the right time. The guy who was working there said I got the last of 5. It was in December when I got mine.

 

[Jim Timber]

There's a lot of equipment parked out front of the Brainerd FF. Go talk to a manager and see if they're willing to deal. ;)

 

[bat man]

Stores can't advertise below MAP (minimum advertised price) and keep programs in place, but can sell for any price they wish. Cooperation vs price fixing.

 

[foggy]

• The department manager, or store manager, always has a coupon to offer a $100 discount at many of those big box stores. The key is to ask for the manager.....and ask him how you can "buy the item you want on sale". This especially works in the "off season" and I have gotten some good values at the TSC store this way. They have given me coupons for special offers and invited me to preferred customer showings....with special discounts. Just ask!

I paid $300 for my used KK box blade, $1225 for my KK tiller, and $525 for my KK Rotary Cutter. All have performed to expectations or better.

 

[Jim Timber]

FF moved out all the implements and now have nothing but pumpkins out front. Could be a good time to start asking.

 

[foggy]

Buy your snow boots in June......and your umbrellas in January boys. And don't forget to tell them you are looking for a low-cost deal!.....or how can you get a "sale" price? It does get cheaper that way. ;)