Before I use IMOX: Rotational Restrictions?

[SD51555]

I've followed the talk about Imox on the web and have heard great reviews about it's ability to clean up a plot. I've read the label top to bottom, and there is no safe to spray list, and no rotational restriction for switching back to other crops. I did a google to find the trade name of IMO (Raptor), and came across a rotational restriction chart put out by UW Madison. I've heard it's safe on clover and chicory, but will it really knock out so many other options for two growing seasons? I'm also going to lose lots of other species to the application like buttercup, thistle, and dandelion, and I'm worried about my bumper crop of black eyed susan. Here's the document. What am I getting wrong here?

https://cropsandsoils.extension.wisc.edu/files/2024/03/RotationalRestrictions_2024_digital.pdf

 

[SD51555]

I did find the Raptor label, and it's got a better rotation restrictions chart.

https://assets.greenbook.net/14-23-27-21-06-2019-L40326_Raptor_Herbicide.pdf

 

[SD51555]

I'm slowly losing ground to grass and I know I have to break some eggs to make this go. I just wanna hear from others how long they've had to wait to get diversity back into their plots. I don't mind switching over to forage wheat for a year to outrun the first rotation restriction, but how long until I can bring back all the crazy like ragweed, wild flowers, etc.

 

[FarmerDan]

I started to write my typical epistle but I will save us all! I have used IMOX to destroy smartweed in clover. It does a bang-up job on other weed grasses and broadleaf in my mono-clover.
I was excited to use it for its residual control which I understood to be a couple of weeks. I was disappointed.

I think labels are useful but they are written to protect the manufacturer from liability. The chart you provided in your initial post is the most conservative list of possible conservative rotational periods possible - as I see it.

How it all works for you depends on how much risk you want to assume. Yes there is soil residual but, in my opinion, on average, it is effective for only a short time. There are certain adverse weather and soil conditions that might cause longer effective periods.

 

[SD51555]

I started to write my typical epistle but I will save us all! I have used IMOX to destroy smartweed in clover. It does a bang-up job on other weed grasses and broadleaf in my mono-clover.
I was excited to use it for its residual control which I understood to be a couple of weeks. I was disappointed.

I think labels are useful but they are written to protect the manufacturer from liability. The chart you provided in your initial post is the most conservative list of possible conservative rotational periods possible - as I see it.

How it all works for you depends on how much risk you want to assume. Yes there is soil residual but, in my opinion, on average, it is effective for only a short time. There are certain adverse weather and soil conditions that might cause longer effective periods.

What rate are you using per acre? The Raptor label is talking no more than 4 oz/ac if you've got chicory concerns, and the IMOX label is calling for anywhere from 16 oz - 1 gallon per acre.

 

[FarmerDan]

Here's my take. The company distributing IMOX...is it Alligare...decided there was a niche market for imaz....what ever the active ingredient...in a smaller quantity than a 2 1/2 gallon jug. One quart, right? So, Alligare has to have an EPA registration for something other than what's on the Raptor label. IMOX is labelled for bare ground weed control in industrial applications. But we all give a wink and nod. Buy Imox and follow the Raptor label. If you use the 4 oz rate better get it on early to kill young targets. I have posted something similar several years ago over in that other forum. I'll see what I can find.

 

[FarmerDan]

Take a look here

Imox (generic Raptor) anyone use it on clover?

I was just getting ready to order clethodim and Butyrac from keystone pest solutions and the site recommended Imox as a replacement for both on clover as a 1 shot treatment. Clover is actually listed on the label unlike clethodim. I may give it a shot but was curious if anyone had tried it.

habitat-talk.com

 

[SD51555]

Take a look here

Imox (generic Raptor) anyone use it on clover?

I was just getting ready to order clethodim and Butyrac from keystone pest solutions and the site recommended Imox as a replacement for both on clover as a 1 shot treatment. Clover is actually listed on the label unlike clethodim. I may give it a shot but was curious if anyone had tried it.

habitat-talk.com

View attachment 64874

Now that’s a useful explanation. Appreciate u guy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[omicron1792]

4 oz with chicory. 6 oz without.

Use 12-16 oz of Clethodim with it and the combo will take out all grasses. Can also add a smidgen of 2-4db too for better broadleaf control.

The restrictions are for farmers. I have found you can plant anything you want 3-4 months later. Maybe sooner.

 

[RGrizzzz]

The restrictions are for farmers. I have found you can plant anything you want 3-4 months later. Maybe sooner.

Same.

 

[FarmerDan]

https://www3.epa.gov/pesticides/chem_search/reg_actions/registration/fs_PC-129171_22-May-97.pdf

See page 5:
"Resultant average persistence: The range of dissipation half-lives is 15 to 130 days with the more representative half-lives appearing to be 35 and 50 days".
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So, use labels present very conservative plant-back intervals wide enough to virtually eliminate any possibility of harm to plantings after the application of the herbicide.

To me, accepting responsibility for my action, I am usually willing to consider the researched breakdown period where the amount of actionable herbicide in the soil is half the applied rate. I think, and this is just me, waiting 35 to 50 days to replant is adequate. If you are risk averse, double the days. All this assume a rate of application recommended by the label.

There's some indication the organic matter in the soil will bind with the herbicide. Soils high in organic matter require higher rates of application. The question I cannot answer is what happens to the bound herbicide? It too will eventually break free. When it does, is it then active in the soil or has it been transformed into a more harmless compound? Soil moisture is also a factor in degradation. Without adequate rainfall I think all soil active herbicides remain effective past any assumed interval.

There are times I wish the persistence was greater...and time where I am happy it isn't. Evaluate your situation and proceed as you feel appropriate.