How you can make the most fertile soil on the planet - Transferred from QDMA Forums

yoderjac

5 year old buck +
BLUF - TERRA PRETA is the most fertile soil on the planet and you can recreate it in your food plots.
I've been researching this for quite a while now and soon I'm going to start working on making my own "Terra Pretta". Terra Pretta is the black, uber fertile soil along the amazon river and it's man made. The naturally occurring soil in the amazon is actually very, very infertile. It's mostly clay with ph around 3.5 to 4 and all of the nutrients are constantly washed away by all of the rain. Hundreds of years ago the native peoples of the amazon basin began building the soil by adding biological charcoal (BIOCHAR) to their crops. BIOCHAR is the key to this "super soil" and the only reason it exists today.
What is BIOCHAR? BIOCHAR is basically charcoal. If you burn wood chips in a very hot, oxygen depleted environment (a process called <pyrolysis then the organic matter of the wood is burned off and all that remains is the carbon &quot;skeleton&quot;. This carbon skeleton is full of pores and has an INCREDIBLE amount of surface area!!! Reportedly, one gram of BIOCHAR has the surface area of a tennis court. This is how BIOCHAR is so beneficial to your soil - the incredible surface area it possesses!
BIOCHAR's amazing surface area brings 6 major benefits to your soil:
1. It increases your soil's ability to hold nutrients.
2. It inhibits the &quot;leaching&quot; or washing of nutrients out of your soil when it rains.
3. It allows your soil to hold more water.
4. It can host a much, MUCH more microbial rich environment than the soil can on its own.
5. It improves soil aeration and structure.
6. It will last for hundreds of years in your soil, continuing to provide its benefits year after year.
Right now BIOCHAR is all the rage with organic gardeners. But for use in a food plot it would have to be something I can produce myself and be somewhat scaleable (purchasing commercially available, bagged BIOCHAR would be cost prohibitive for a food plot).
So you need 2 things to make BIOCHAR: the raw material (I'm going to use wood chips) and a kiln to burn off the organic matter.
You can get wood chips from most tree trimming operations, wood mills or you can make it yourself on your land. You could even use wood scraps, if you didn't want to fuss with getting the wood down to chips.
The kiln I'm going to build is called a &quot;TLUD&quot; or top-lit, updraft design kiln. You can make it from a couple of 55 gallon barrels and one smaller barrel. You can upscale your ability to make more BIOCHAR by producing multiple TLUD barrel kilns.
Here's a video showing an easy to make TLUD kiln design (this is the kind I&quot;m planning on building): <
One important thing about BIOCHAR - you don't really want to put &quot;raw&quot; BIOCHAR into your soils as it will have a negative impact for the first year or two, because it will pull the nutrients out of the soil (kinda like a sponge) and can hurt you plots initially. The best use of BIOCHAR is to &quot;charge&quot; it (I've also heard it called &quot;loading&quot; or &quot;inoculating&quot;) your BIOCHAR by mixing it with compost or manure/liter for a period of time before introducing it to your soil. This way, it will have an immediate positive impact.
I'm going to chronicle my use of BIOCHAR in my plots in this thread and try to show some concrete &quot;before and after&quot; results over the next year or two. I'm going to amend my worst, most sandy soils first, so the benefits should be pretty obvious.
Here's a nice 9 minute video showing a little Terra Preta history in the Amazon and the benefits of BIOCHAR. In a research project there, they got an 880% increase in yield using BIOCHAR amended soils!!!
Here's a 24 minute video explaining BIOCHAR and its benefits in a bit more detail: <<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53hZe9_7yvY" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53hZe9_7yvY /a>
Interesting stuff, but is this really scalable for the kind of square footage in most food plots?
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Originally Posted by broom_jm
Interesting stuff, but is this really scalable for the kind of square footage in most food plots?
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Yes sir, it is. I'm going to construct multiple 55 gallon drum kilns - should be able to produce a few yards worth of it in a day/weekend.
2/3 of our ranch is river bottom that has very good quality soil. The other 1/3 is upland hay pasture - very sandy, acidic, poorer quality soil. The plots I have on the upland sandy soil are the one's I'm going to concentrate on improving with BIOCHAR.
Very interested. Keep us posted on as many details as you can
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Originally Posted by MAJ_MALFUNCTION
Yes sir, it is. I'm going to construct multiple 55 gallon drum kilns - should be able to produce a few yards worth of it in a day/weekend.
2/3 of our ranch is river bottom that has very good quality soil. The other 1/3 is upland hay pasture - very sandy, acidic, poorer quality soil. The plots I have on the upland sandy soil are the one's I'm going to concentrate on improving with BIOCHAR.
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How many square feet of soil will 10 yards of biochar amend? I'm being genuine here, because I have read about this before and remember the numbers being...daunting.
I have been watching the Biochar workshops on Livingwebfarms.org. This is amazing and it all makes perfect sense. Adding this to CNC's throw and mows could really make a great concept even greater.
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Originally Posted by MAJ_MALFUNCTION
One important thing about BIOCHAR - you don't really want to put &quot;raw&quot; BIOCHAR into your soils as it will have a negative impact for the first year or two, because it will pull the nutrients out of the soil (kinda like a sponge) and can hurt you plots initially. The best use of BIOCHAR is to &quot;charge&quot; it (I've also heard it called &quot;loading&quot; or &quot;inoculating&quot;) your BIOCHAR by mixing it with compost or manure/liter for a period of time before introducing it to your soil. This way, it will have an immediate positive impact.
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Glad you pointed this out...one caveat I remembered! I've slept since watching the videos.
Baker was asking me about it today...now I know who planted that seed! (INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED)
Figure out what BC application rates they rec....I;ve got some litter on hand and wouldn't mind doing small test plots on pasture...vs a check...and the same rate of litter alone...If I can see a difference in pasture, then I'm game to look deeper!
 
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Originally Posted by broom_jm
How many square feet of soil will 10 yards of biochar amend? I'm being genuine here, because I have read about this before and remember the numbers being...daunting.
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Totally understand your point brutha!
Bottom line - there is no exact amount of BIOCHAR that you need to ad. I've seen 5-20% as a common recommendation for amount to have in your soil. Any amount of BIOCHAR you can get in your soil will increase your soil's &quot;health&quot;. The poorer the soil condition, the greater it will benefit from BIOCHAR.
Here's the recommendation from one manufacturer of BIOCHAR: &quot;As little as 2% per volume can have an effect and the maximum suggested upper limit is 20%. But any where between 5% and 10% is good.&quot;
One hand full of BIOCHAR has the surface area of two football fields. TWO FOOTBALL FIELDS!!! I find that mind blowing. So I think even getting a little BIOCHAR into your soil can make a pretty good difference. Right now my plan is to layer it on every year. I'll produce as much as I can, load it and then spread it on the soil. It will get &quot;sandwiched&quot; between the layers of organic material in our no-till plantings.
Here's a picture of what the carbon structure looks like under a microscope. These pores are what result in the expansive surface area of the material. One biologist referred to BIOCHAR as a &quot;hotel&quot; for all the healthy soil microorganisms. (INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED)
1614522_orig.jpg
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Originally Posted by baker
Very interested. Keep us posted on as many details as you can
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Yes sir, will do!
I'm very excited about this project and I'll try to do a good job sharing information on how we go about it and how well it works out for us.
Having seen biochar mentioned in various mags for a while this thread finally inspired me to investigate.Last night I even purchased a couple of samples to try in my compost pile and vegetable garden. After reading quite a bit about it several questions surface.
Assume the claims made about biochar are valid. Assume some form of 'inoculant' is required prior to field application.I wonder how you create a product field ready? I wonder how scale can be created for more high volume application?
Is there a regionalized business opportunity here servicing the ag community? Or is this more applicable to the home gardener or very small scale farmer?
$$ start to add up when amending soil come into play!
2,000,000 lbs of soil in top 6&quot; of an acre.
1% application rate is 20,000 lb spread....or...10 Tons/ac.
That amount is equivalent to a typical 3-5 yr litter program...and I have a good handle on those economics along with soil/plant changes over time.
5% = 50 T/ac
10% = 100 T
20% = 200 T
Those are lifetime numbers for most...cost?...ROI? And yes the soil behavior will certainly change even with 1% addition! I would expect to see visual changes in plants at 0.5% (5 T/ac) if the soil is responding!
Probably will be most economical when one looks at raising CEC by say 1 unit with biochar. Then relying on return of high biomass forage grown to maturity and returned to the soil and dedicated management for further soil building.
Here is a low cost way some are improving soil life. Maybe this can be combined with biochar to keep the costs down?
Low rate application of liquid compost extract was used on this ranch..along with high density short duration grazing. For a little background on that ranch....it is located in FL on very sandy low CEC soil...high rainfall/high leaching potential and low energy forages..past history was a tree nursery with excessive glyphosate application....the soil essentially had NO LIFE and no organic matter....anything done 'organic' would certainly benefit the soil.
http://www.livingwebfarms.org/sustai...ing/4579695031
My point is there are many ways to skin the soil health cat....expected turnaround time with any one method is 3-10 years of dedicated management and unbiased observation.
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Sounds like I could remove the coals from our outdoor wood boiler at the right time to use for this, but that would make for an unhappy wife if I didn't let them burn all the way to ashes. Hmmmm
51nY3wRR6DL.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/Soil-Will-Save...l+will+save+us
Maybe check into some of the ideas in this book as a cost alternative.
I don't know if you saw this but a guy (postban) on Michigan Sportman Forum did this too. The topic starts on post #135.
http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/fo...rting&amp;page= 9
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Originally Posted by baker
Having seen biochar mentioned in various mags for a while this thread finally inspired me to investigate.Last night I even purchased a couple of samples to try in my compost pile and vegetable garden. After reading quite a bit about it several questions surface.
Assume the claims made about biochar are valid. Assume some form of 'inoculant' is required prior to field application.I wonder how you create a product field ready? I wonder how scale can be created for more high volume application?
Is there a regionalized business opportunity here servicing the ag community? Or is this more applicable to the home gardener or very small scale farmer?
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Glad to see that you're as amped about this as I am Baker! (INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED)
My plan to inoculate/charge/load my BIOCHAR is to mix it with chicken litter. With Doug's help I'm going to get a couple/few truck loads of litter in the near future. I may try to mix it in with some some kind of compost but I haven't figured out how to do compost on a large scale yet.
I'm kind of using &quot;Antler Dirt&quot; as a model. Antler Dirt is basically chicken litter with compost mixed in (at least that's my understanding). The manufacturers of Antler Dirt are able to manufacture enough to supply many food plotters.
For my own scalability, my plan is to construct multiple 55 gallon drum TLUD kilns. If I can't crank out enough BIOCHAR in a give amount of time, I'll just need to make more kilns.
I've done a cost analysis on this as well. The most expensive component for me is going to be the PTO drive wood chipper. I've always wanted to get one any way, so now I have an excuse (INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED) . It's going to be about $3K or so. The kilns should be pretty inexpensive. Used 55 gallon drums are $20, or so. Raw materials (wood for the chipper) are abundant on the ranch and will only cost me sweat equity.
As far as business opportunity, I think is could be a good one. There are already several entrepreneurs that have hopped on the band wagon. One interesting thing, a lot of energy is produced during the manufacture of BIOCHAR.
 
Didn't mean to come across as a 'Debbie Downer'. It's just when I see amendment rates listed as %, then that implies the application intent (main market) is potted plants or small bed planting. So, I just put those numbers on field scale ag perspective...for reference only!
You will need a compost turner for large scale Antler Dirt production. Some folks make their own turners...others buy commercially build units. Old hay or crop residues can be used as compost stock material....large scale.
Antler Dirt contains gypsum, which is not a wise amendment for low CEC sandy soils...internal drainage is not the issue....moisture and nutrient retention are the resource concerns of sand. You would essentially replace the gypsum with biochar....lessening the tonnage of char needed...and markedly upping the CEC of the amendment mix for more nutrient holding...compost gives you humus for water retention and CEC. Soil labs can test CEC of amendments. That way 1-2 T per acre of mix can be applied and marketed for large scale application on sandy soils. AD can also be a screened or unscreened product to fit different spreader applications.
AD also uses specific inoculants, which I don't know if they are commercially available. Most likely are as the AD technology originated in the Mennonite areas of either IL or IN.
The most ROI is likely to come from 'bagged' product sold to the small grower market. Make money there and you can sell at ag scale for less margin. Farmers are more concerned about cost per ac...doubt they will pay more than $100/T. Ag scale also ups litter need....and as I've told you big customers get the best deal on litter and haulers are more inclined to stay on board!
I hope that you and Baker get the chance to sit down with the AD people. Maybe a franchise or something like that...AD is trademarked so be careful there. Not sure exactly about the business side of that....either AD main business in still in AR or they sold out to KY. The guy in KY is a retired Army Colonel, can't recall the name....but I've sat at the table with him...nice guy, outdoor crazy and business savvy! Andy is a good guy too!
Keep me in the loop on how things are going! Yes, I appreciate and enjoy your enthusiasm/passion for this...as I enjoy Baker's passion for whitetail. Passionate people make big things happen! (INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED)
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Originally Posted by dgallow
Didn't mean to come across as a 'Debbie Downer'. It's just when I see amendment rates listed as %, then that implies the application intent (main market) is potted plants or small bed planting. So, I just put those numbers on field scale ag perspective...for reference only!
You will need a compost turner for large scale Antler Dirt production. Some folks make their own turners...others buy commercially build units. Old hay or crop residues can be used as compost stock material....large scale.
Antler Dirt contains gypsum, which is not a wise amendment for low CEC sandy soils...internal drainage is not the issue....moisture and nutrient retention are the resource concerns of sand. You would essentially replace the gypsum with biochar....lessening the tonnage of char needed...and markedly upping the CEC of the amendment mix for more nutrient holding...compost gives you humus for water retention and CEC. Soil labs can test CEC of amendments. That way 1-2 T per acre of mix can be applied and marketed for large scale application on sandy soils. AD can also be a screened or unscreened product to fit different spreader applications.
AD also uses specific inoculants, which I don't know if they are commercially available. Most likely are as the AD technology originated in the Mennonite areas of either IL or IN.
The most ROI is likely to come from 'bagged' product sold to the small grower market. Make money there and you can sell at ag scale for less margin. Farmers are more concerned about cost per ac...doubt they will pay more than $100/T. Ag scale also ups litter need....and as I've told you big customers get the best deal on litter and haulers are more inclined to stay on board!
I hope that you and Baker get the chance to sit down with the AD people. Maybe a franchise or something like that...AD is trademarked so be careful there. Not sure exactly about the business side of that....either AD main business in still in AR or they sold out to KY. The guy in KY is a retired Army Colonel, can't recall the name....but I've sat at the table with him...nice guy, outdoor crazy and business savvy! Andy is a good guy too!
Keep me in the loop on how things are going! Yes, I appreciate and enjoy your enthusiasm/passion for this...as I enjoy Baker's passion for whitetail. Passionate people make big things happen! (INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED)
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LOL - not a &quot;downer&quot; at all Doug! I value your opinion very much.
I was only referring to AD as a model product for what I'm trying to do on my ranch. AD is &quot;mo' betta&quot; chicken liter - that's I'm shooting for. I'm thinking liter is the easiest thing to inoculate the char with.
As always - thanks for your input!
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Originally Posted by Honker
I don't know if you saw this but a guy (postban) on Michigan Sportman Forum did this too. The topic starts on post #135.
http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/fo...rting&amp;page= 9
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Thanks for sharing that, Honker! Wish postban showed some of the results (I went through the whole thread and couldn't see any (INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED) ).
He's a member here, send him a pm. search &quot;postban&quot;
I use dry and liquid humics. I also am testing out worm castings this year and creating my own microbial tea. I also use supercal98 in my fertilizer blends.
 
I find this all fascinating...I'll wait and watch as you try to scale this to the food plot level but....
For those of us growing containerized trees, volume goes way down. I wonder too if this may be effective when amending soil for planting trees. When we plant a fruit tree, we are making a long term investment and those early years of growth can make a long term difference. Again, this is low volume compared to a food plot....
Just thinking....
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Originally Posted by yoderj@cox.net
I find this all fascinating...I'll wait and watch as you try to scale this to the food plot level but....
For those of us growing containerized trees, volume goes way down. I wonder too if this may be effective when amending soil for planting trees. When we plant a fruit tree, we are making a long term investment and those early years of growth can make a long term difference. Again, this is low volume compared to a food plot....
Just thinking....
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Jack,
I was planning on doing the same thing myself. It could also be an easy way to do a comparison of how much of a difference BIOCHAR can make. I'm going to expand our orchard this fall and I'm thinking about planting a few &quot;control&quot; trees without the BIOCHAR and then planting the same varietal adjacent and amending the soil that goes in with those trees with the char. Would be interesting to see the difference in growth!
Here's a pic of some trees in a study that showed the benefit from BIOCHAR:
Biochar-Bananas-1024x770.jpg
maj has both high cal lime and dolomitic lime quarries close to his farm. 30 min or so?
The high cal lime from the Hugo quarry has tested 39-41% calcium over the last several years...Mg around 0.25%. Cost last year was $8.40 per ton at the quarry....you fill out a sheet, put your CC info on it to create an account and they bill you by the load directly. I've also got a good trucking contact at Atoka who is very reasonable.
The dolomite quarry is at Tish.
Have to go west of I35 to get mined gypsum near Sayre. Which I'd like to have a truckload one day to play with.
Best I've even been able to get supercal to this area was through Conklin...$200+/ton...bagged option only.
Which reminds me, maj are your soils those of the old gulf lakebed? Already good Ca and pH?
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Originally Posted by MAJ_MALFUNCTION
Jack,
I was planning on doing the same thing myself. It could also be an easy way to do a comparison of how much of a difference BIOCHAR can make. I'm going to expand our orchard this fall and I'm thinking about planting a few &quot;control&quot; trees without the BIOCHAR and then planting the same varietal adjacent and amending the soil that goes in with those trees with the char. Would be interesting to see the difference in growth!
Here's a pic of some trees in a study that showed the benefit from BIOCHAR:
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Wow! If that is really representative it is impressive. I may have to find some 55 gal drums...
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Originally Posted by dgallow
$$ start to add up when amending soil come into play!
2,000,000 lbs of soil in top 6&quot; of an acre.
1% application rate is 20,000 lb spread....or...10 Tons/ac.
That amount is equivalent to a typical 3-5 yr litter program...and I have a good handle on those economics along with soil/plant changes over time.
5% = 50 T/ac
10% = 100 T
20% = 200 T
Those are lifetime numbers for most...cost?...ROI? And yes the soil behavior will certainly change even with 1% addition! I would expect to see visual changes in plants at 0.5% (5 T/ac) if the soil is responding!
Probably will be most economical when one looks at raising CEC by say 1 unit with biochar. Then relying on return of high biomass forage grown to maturity and returned to the soil and dedicated management for further soil building.
Here is a low cost way some are improving soil life. Maybe this can be combined with biochar to keep the costs down?
Low rate application of liquid compost extract was used on this ranch..along with high density short duration grazing. For a little background on that ranch....it is located in FL on very sandy low CEC soil...high rainfall/high leaching potential and low energy forages..past history was a tree nursery with excessive glyphosate application....the soil essentially had NO LIFE and no organic matter....anything done 'organic' would certainly benefit the soil.
http://www.livingwebfarms.org/sustai...ing/4579695031
My point is there are many ways to skin the soil health cat....expected turnaround time with any one method is 3-10 years of dedicated management and unbiased observation.
+
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Doug,
I know they are still doing research on application rates. I think for commercial farming rather than shooting for the optimal rate from a plants point of view, it is more of finding the cost efficient point where you get the most benefit for the least cost.
From the little I've read, it looks like the optimal rates are closer to 20-25 tons/ac.
The stuff is pretty light, a bulk density of 0.17-0.37 tons per cubic meter. Perhaps that accounts for the difference from your analysis above.
One article I read suggested that significant improvement were observed with only a ton or two applied per acre.
Thanks,
Jack
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Originally Posted by yoderj@cox.net
Wow! If that is really representative it is impressive. I may have to find some 55 gal drums...
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Jack - if you google &quot;biochar cowboy charcoal&quot;, you will find that cowboy charcoal is an alternative source for biochar. While it may be too $$ to consider treating a plot, it may be a reasonable alternative for a small number of trees. All you need to do is hammer the charcoal to small pieces (not to dust from what I gather) and charge it with litter/manure. I may experiment with it this summer (in the garden with pumpkins).
-fsh
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Originally Posted by yoderj@cox.net
Wow! If that is really representative it is impressive. I may have to find some 55 gal drums...
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Yes sir, it is!
I'm sold on the stuff - don't believe it's a snake oil kinda deal.
The history is there (Terra Preta), the science is there and the independent testing is there.
Here's a 60 second video showing a &quot;control&quot; plant grown right next to a plant that has BIOCHAR amended soil. It shows the growth difference over 28 days. Notice the difference in the root mass?
 
Help me understand where biochar is most beneficial:
In a sandy soil where retaining moisture is a challenge?
In a clay soil, where infiltration issues are a challenge?
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Originally Posted by broom_jm
Help me understand where biochar is most beneficial:
In a sandy soil where retaining moisture is a challenge?
In a clay soil, where infiltration issues are a challenge?
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broom,
Most of the reading I've done so far show the hard scientific data has been collected on Ferralsols in the tropics: <http://www.isric.org/about-soils/wor...ion/ferralsols
I'm not sure how this translates to different soil types here yet....
I can't say I'm sold, but I do find it very interesting...
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Originally Posted by broom_jm
Help me understand where biochar is most beneficial:
In a sandy soil where retaining moisture is a challenge?
In a clay soil, where infiltration issues are a challenge?
==================================
Any soil which is less than optimum fertility and inhibited deep function should see the MOST benefit.
Nutrient wise, sandy and clay soil have the same problem....the billions of lbs of ores which become the elements for plant nutrition are locked in anaerobic layers under topsoil (clay soil) or leached out of the effective depth which plant roots can recycle them to the surface (sandy soils).
99% of current ag amendments are applied to the soil to fill CEC site which are essentially vacant....we 'hope?' that they indeed bind to exchange sites and remain plant available.
The 1% case where exchange sites with bound elements are added to the soil is compost....hence instant availability of bound element to all of soil life.
Manures fall in a gray area, because a good portion of plant available elements are imbedded within organic tissue which must be further broken down to slowly release plant nutrients. Animal urine must be bound when it hits the soil or else can be lost. Bird manures contain both feces and kidney excretion.
A biochar mix will fit the 1% scenario....because you are charging the exchange sites on the char with the free/soluble elements in manure before application. So like compost, when this stuff hits the soil there is no lag time is use...it can be used immediately and in the exact context which elements are delivered from soil exchange sites to roots.
What soils will benefit? Any soil which needs more CEC and nutrients to grow the intended crop.
What I wanted to point out earlier, it that maj is in an area which is rich in mined Ca products....forage stock for compost....bird manure. He could literally make any mix you need, economically and all natural!
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Originally Posted by fshafly2
Jack - if you google &quot;biochar cowboy charcoal&quot;, you will find that cowboy charcoal is an alternative source for biochar. While it may be too $$ to consider treating a plot, it may be a reasonable alternative for a small number of trees. All you need to do is hammer the charcoal to small pieces (not to dust from what I gather) and charge it with litter/manure. I may experiment with it this summer (in the garden with pumpkins).
-fsh
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I'd be a but concerned about the &quot;coal&quot; in charcoal. I would presume the petroleum content would be high for fuel use.
I'm looking to see if anyone has used it for fruit trees and can't find anyone with hands on experience yet. If I don't find anyone, I may do a couple experiments with my containerized trees.
I would start simply by buying a bag of it mail order. Since you use it in small amounts, I could do enough trees for a test.
If it appears worth the effort, I could easily make my own. I have a dump a few miles from my house that gives away free wood mulch. I use a 55 gal burn barrel at the farm already. It looks to me like it is just a matter of adding a chimney to it. That is probably a good idea to do that anyway just for safety. It looked to me as though you get about a cubic foot or more out of a single barrel burn.
So for me, it would be more effort than cost. I'm just not completely sold on the benefits in broad spectrum of soil types. I don't have the soil science background of guys like Doug. I have a hard time extrapolating from soils in the topics which is where I see most of the research to my soils. I would really like to see some hard data on applications on soils like my own.
If it is beneficial with my soils, I then have to convince myself the cost is worth it. This stuff is light and I presume subject to wind and rain erosion. That probably means incorporation. I'm trying to minimize tillage to build OM. I wonder how many years of OM building I lose if I till this stuff in. It is hard for me to balance all the factors.
On the other hand, with container grown trees, the amount used for containers or amending holes at planting time is small enough that I could homebrew the stuff.
Still thinking this through....
Thanks for the explanation, Doug.
It more or less confirms what I was thinking: To get the most out of biochar on very sandy soils, it really needs to be a component in a more holistic approach to amendments.
I have often wondered what it would take for me to apply enough powdered clay and silt to my beach sand to begin the decades-long process of creating &quot;soil&quot; from sand. The logistics involved are daunting, to say the least. My suspicion is that biochar is one product that could be used to facilitate that process, in much the same way that the best soils are created naturally, with the benefit of eons to formulate.
I'm sure that something like biochar, with those characteristics, is found in all of the better soils, from forest fires of centuries past?
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Originally Posted by yoderj@cox.net
I'd be a but concerned about the &quot;coal&quot; in charcoal. I would presume the petroleum content would be high for fuel use.
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There is no coal in Cowboy charcoal. It is made from wood. <http://www.cowboycharcoal.com/southernstyle.html
-fsh
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Originally Posted by fshafly2
There is no coal in Cowboy charcoal. It is made from wood. <http://www.cowboycharcoal.com/southernstyle.html
-fsh
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Oh, when I googled it, I found another link that was commercial charcoal briquettes.
I've learned to be very skeptical of everything that cost me time and money. This is probably because I am naturally inquisitive of everything. While researching chicken litter, I stumbled across this website:
http://www.dyarrow.org/poultry/
Not making a statement either for or against, however, intriguing claims for both of these relatively new &quot;soil enhancers&quot;.
 
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Originally Posted by StrmChzr
I've learned to be very skeptical of everything that cost me time and money. This is probably because I am naturally inquisitive of everything. While researching chicken litter, I stumbled across this website:
http://www.dyarrow.org/poultry/
Not making a statement either for or against, however, intriguing claims for both of these relatively new &quot;soil enhancers&quot;.
==================================
Thanks for the link SC! Some good info there.
Being inquisitive is a good thing, right? (INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED)
I do find it a little funny that you think manure (chicken litter) and char (used by a few different cultures for hundreds, possibly thousands of years) are &quot;new&quot; soil enhancers. (INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED)
I had to give it a try. Here is my bio char experiment.Took about 4 hours to cook the first batch. There is a 30 gal drum with wood in it inside a 55 gal drum that does the 'cooking'. Going to put first batches in compost pile for garden. Will try a few side by side comparisons. Will expand program to food plots if the benefits are there. A fun project at the least.
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Originally Posted by baker
I had to give it a try. Here is my bio char experiment.Took about 4 hours to cook the first batch. There is a 30 gal drum with wood in it inside a 55 gal drum that does the 'cooking'. Going to put first batches in compost pile for garden. Will try a few side by side comparisons. Will expand program to food plots if the benefits are there. A fun project at the least.
==================================
I have not seen that method used. I found the video on the TLUD kiln fascinating. I wonder if that approach produces enough heat inside the 30 gal drum. I also wonder what effect the water content of the woods has or does the inner drum have holes in it. I have also seen an inverted cone design. It seems with this design, you can't load and wait, but you must tend and add layers of biomass. That is one thing I like about the TLUD, you load it all at once and ignite.
Keep us posted.
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Originally Posted by yoderj@cox.net
I have not seen that method used. I found the video on the TLUD kiln fascinating. I wonder if that approach produces enough heat inside the 30 gal drum. I also wonder what effect the water content of the woods has or does the inner drum have holes in it. I have also seen an inverted cone design. It seems with this design, you can't load and wait, but you must tend and add layers of biomass. That is one thing I like about the TLUD, you load it all at once and ignite.
Keep us posted.
==================================
I am certainly no expert and simply experimenting. We did put a few holes around the bottom of the inner barrel .
We were able to put ample wood in the 55 gal drum around and on top of the 30 gal drum. The wood we used was dried oak used to make furniture. It got really hot!!! Appears to me the BIOCHAR process was complete on material in 30 gal drum after about 4 hours. . We are crushing it today.
We are doing another batch today with bark from local mill. That material will have more moisture. TBD.
Thanks for sharing your project Baker!
I just purchased 30 x 55 gal drums and will try doing the TLUD on a larger scale, so I can produce more char per batch.
 
Baker...did you do a taste test? (INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED)
Living Web Farms....several videos....showing how to make biochar like baker has done....think this is the first of that series...from a field day.
Technology = the transfer among individuals of useful information, both novel and vintage in origin.
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Yes, had to give it a try. Kinda dry and ...well maybe it's an acquired taste.
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Originally Posted by baker
Yes, had to give it a try. Kinda dry and ...well maybe it's an acquired taste.
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Maybe salt and pepper it next time? (INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED)
I've now tried 3 'batches ' of bio char with differing results.
First batch was made with kiln dried hardwood and was a total success. Cooked in about 4 hrs. and turned out great.
Second batch was attempted with wood chips from local saw mill. Didn't work. Tried to cook it twice with no luck. My suspicion is that the wood chips compress too much with too little airspace and never got hot enough with my contraption. I abandoned them.
Third batch was made with bark from local saw mill. Cooked quickly and worked well. Overall volume was much less than the kiln dried wood but successful nonetheless.
For now I will go back to the kiln dried wood as I have a large supply and am thru experimenting.
I'm going to soak one batch in fish emulsion to 'inoculate' it and put it in garden with side by side soybean test.
The rest is going in compost pile till fall.
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Originally Posted by baker
I'm going to soak one batch in fish emulsion to 'inoculate' it and put it in garden with side by side soybean test.
The rest is going in compost pile till fall.
==================================
Please post some pics - thanks for sharing!! (INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED)
Here is irony for you. I've been reading extensively about Bio Char. I built a kiln and have been experimenting with making bio Char. La. has an extensive forestry and ag industry which compliment Bio Char.
Today, our Gov. announced that Cool Planet is building a plant in Alexandria, La [my home town ] to make gasoline, jet fuel and yes BIO CHAR!!! Taking advantage of the very resources aforementioned and numerous technologies they have patented.
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Originally Posted by baker
Here is irony for you. I've been reading extensively about Bio Char. I built a kiln and have been experimenting with making bio Char. La. has an extensive forestry and ag industry which compliment Bio Char.
Today, our Gov. announced that Cool Planet is building a plant in Alexandria, La [my home town ] to make gasoline, jet fuel and yes BIO CHAR!!! Taking advantage of the very resources aforementioned and numerous technologies they have patented.
==================================
Is this a new career opportunity?
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Originally Posted by broom_jm
Is this a new career opportunity?
==================================
I think is will be an 'alternate enterprise' for his main occupation...from knowing him a short time. Baker can comment more if he chooses.
Will tell you one thing....when he does something it will be research well and done equally as well.
I am cheerfully retired and quite content to explore ways to improve the deer herds I am entrusted with. That said it is always fun to explore investment ideas.
The thesis looks like this:
Start in the backyard. Build a kiln and do side by side testing with Bio Char to determine and measure results.I have side by side rows of bush beans one with char one without.{ Organic of course } Expand test comparisons as warranted.
If results are favorable, build a larger more industrial sized kiln for personal farm use and learn how to 'inoculate' the char and use in food plots on the farm. I have well over 100 acres of plots I have been farming for years. This experience teaches how to make, distribute and use on an ag scale.
If favorable results go visit a couple of the plants already functioning to learn, talk to Slow Money and other investment houses in the 'eco' field and put together business plan.
Look for areas with abundant forestry and agriculture. Forestry provides the raw material and agriculture is the consumer. Because of scale ideally you want a lot of customers within easy freight distance as cost to transport becomes an impediment.Ag provides the scale, garden centers and such provide the margin. Strikes me as a very geographically oriented business.
Is it possible to get saw mills to pay you to haul off wood waste?
Is it possible to get land fills to pay you to take off organic waste?
Would chicken houses and such pay to have the litter removed?
Can the govt. be convinced to subsidize farmers to buy Bio Char for carbon sequestration? After all there are ample farming acreage [419 million acres U.S. alone] that if using bio char would sequester all the excess carbon in the atmosphere and put it where it enriches soil. win/win
Now Cool Planet has taken the entire scheme to a better level. They have figured out how to convert wood waste to gasoline and jet fuel on an economic scale. None of this subsidized ethanol folly but a legitimate business technology. And I suspect Bio Char is a by product. Cool stuff! Wish I would have thought of that.
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Originally Posted by baker
Would chicken houses and such pay to have the litter removed?
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With broilers on bedding, the litter clean out foreman pays the chicken producer XX $$ for the litter...he has costs associated with his cleanout crew and equipment...this becomes the XX $$ fee paid by the ag producer for litter as fertilizer....it can range from $5-15 per ton of litter. Trucking fees and application fees make up the other litter costs. Trucking fee is by far the largest % of cost for distance of any consideration.
The chicken producer must in turn buy, haul and spread new bedding in the chicken house. He must account for this cost as best possible. Rice hulls or hardwood chips are the most common bedding material.
There are newly designed broiler houses where birds are raised in battery cages above a conveyor belt system which collects, dries, and moves the litter to an outside covered shed. There is ZERO bedding...the litter is pure chicken sh**....dry enough that trucking moisture is a non-issue. Lower costs since there is less labor and time in manure handling. 6-7% increase in bird performance due to cleaner air and growing conditions in the house.
Will someone pay you to dispose of litter? no likely
The chicken farmer will want income from litter sales to offset other costs, regardless of the house design...and to keep pace with the growing popularity of manure fertilizer value.
The value of macro fertilizer nutrients (+ secondary and trace elements) in litter still well exceeds litter costs...by a factor of 2-4 fold depending on trucking distance.
To date...NO ONE has attempted to place a $$ value on the carbon content of manures or composts....because C is considered a 'non-essential'? element by most industrial farming operations. 500-600 lbs of actual carbon per ton of litter is a normal value....enough to change soil organic matter levels in a short time...improve water holding capacity and yield as well. Yet, carbon taxation? has been done in some countries to try and put a monetary value on carbon. I find the disparity quite interesting...since we have a plethora of scientists and economists fully able to value carbon as an amendment.
My point is that I would not fret much the cost (or expect it for free) of nutrient dense manure before the carbon content of such is truly valued. At that point, few of us we be able to afford litter!
The 'bird in dung paradigm' applies! (INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED)
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Would the activated charcoal for ag use (remediation) do the same thing? I can't find any solid info in biochar va activated charcoal
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Originally Posted by homegrownbucks
Would the activated charcoal for ag use (remediation) do the same thing? I can't find any solid info in biochar va activated charcoal
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I'm not sure there is a big difference. Many of the terms that surround biochar are evolving industry lingo. I am sure there are some producers using the term &quot;activated charcoal&quot; and others using the term &quot;biochar&quot;. I think the key is looing into the process for creating it. The charcoal you buy for your grill is optimized as a fuel although the general process is the same. This is one of the reasons it is very difficult finding good solid information. It is pretty clear that if you make your own biochar using good biomass and charge it properly you will find benefits in soils that have an issue holding nutrients.
Once you start talking about commercial products, things get fuzzy. There are different methods for production using different biomass sources and &quot;cooking&quot; it differently. Many of these are trying to find a balance that makes production profitable. Can they get a dependable source of biomass free or at a low cost? Can they extract value from the energy used in the cooking process? Do they have a dependable low cost charging source? What are the delivery costs of inputs and outputs to market?
All of this requires a number of compromises that allow them to make the whole process profitable. This means the characteristics of one commercial product may vary significantly from another.
I'm not convinced this is viable at the ag level unless one has a production facility close and a good method of application. I hope to make my own for use on a limited basis with planted trees, but I will watch what others work out for larger scale use.
Thanks,
Jack
Heck all you need is a rainforest and 30,00 poor people to feed the kiln.
G
Any updates on this Maj? Baker?
I found a new network contact close to you and sent you a PM with the information.
51LxtXsuLQL._SX331_BO1,204,203,200_.jpg

Terra Preta: How the World's Most Fertile Soil Can Help Reverse Climate Change and Reduce World Hunger Paperback – May 10, 2016
http://www.amazon.com/Terra-Preta-Fe...ds=terra+preta
200 pp
I stumbled over this today.
Too bad it's not available as an e-book, but I'm sure that's coming.
Bio Char is potentially a great retail product and is without a doubt can be a wonderful input for abused, neglected, compacted, deficient and eroded soils, especially soils without structure.
Yes, it needs to be innocculated and Yes Antler Dirt would be a great product to do that with. We are and have had more than a few discussions about adding bio-char to Antler Dirt and a cost effective source is our only roadblock.
A note on your % of content. I am certain that the accurate method would be by volume not by weight. 20% by weight would be a volume greater than the soil you have to amend and it would take centuries to incorporate it in any functional manner that would not inhibit growth. 20% by volume would still be a large amount and take years to achieve at .5% per year but is possible.
We make Antler Dirt in rows of about 100 ton, we can customize a row to include or exclude ingredients. Yes Gypsum is an ingredient and the purpose is to improve soil tilth (to loosen the soil and allow water to enter more readily). It is not required in super sandy soils but sandy clay can benefit enormously from the addition as well as many soils compacted and without structure.
Antler Dirt is not compost added to litter. Antler Dirt is many great products combined to aid in soil building, nutrient availabilty and moisture retention.
We make humus soil (a most valuable product taken above and beyond basic compost) then we start over with humus soil as the base ingredient and compost again using litter as a nitrogen source primarily but gaining other nutrients as well. With the help of microbial bacteria (good soil bacteria) we compost at high temps to kill bad bacteria and expedite the program to compost the litter addition then stop the process to retain a good amount of N P and K only then do we add the lime, gypsum, trace and micro-nutrients.
The addition of bio-char to Antler Dirt will provide a great place for the microbes to live and multiply while the continue to break down matter and make nutrients available to the plant community.
Yes, transportation will be your most limiting factor packaging for small retail sales will be another.
You will find a few people who understand the science and buy without hesitation and many who will have to be convinced.
To succeed here you must have a devotion, a love for soil health and the results that can be achieved by building great soil. I wish you lots of success and hope that we may someday soon have soils like that before man first turned the sod under.
I use humics in all the foliar plant foods i sell. I use humics in many of the dry fertilizers i push. I also believe in planting forages that build organic matter and i believe in biodiversity.
Worm castings have their place but the expense is tough for many.
I also believe in mycorrhizae and azospirillum and use them in seed mixes and products that promote or contain these.
 
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Originally Posted by Antler Dirt John
Bio Char is potentially a great retail product and is without a doubt can be a wonderful input for abused, neglected, compacted, deficient and eroded soils, especially soils without structure.
Yes, it needs to be innocculated and Yes Antler Dirt would be a great product to do that with. We are and have had more than a few discussions about adding bio-char to Antler Dirt and a cost effective source is our only roadblock.
<u>A note on your % of content. I am certain that the accurate method would be by volume not by weight. 20% by weight would be a volume greater than the soil you have to amend and it would take centuries to incorporate it in any functional manner that would not inhibit growth. 20% by volume would still be a large amount and take years to achieve at .5% per year but is possible.</u>
We make Antler Dirt in rows of about 100 ton, we can customize a row to include or exclude ingredients. Yes Gypsum is an ingredient and the purpose is to improve soil tilth (to loosen the soil and allow water to enter more readily). It is not required in super sandy soils but sandy clay can benefit enormously from the addition as well as many soils compacted and without structure.
Antler Dirt is not compost added to litter. Antler Dirt is many great products combined to aid in soil building, nutrient availabilty and moisture retention.
We make humus soil (a most valuable product taken above and beyond basic compost) then we start over with humus soil as the base ingredient and compost again using litter as a nitrogen source primarily but gaining other nutrients as well. With the help of microbial bacteria (good soil bacteria) we compost at high temps to kill bad bacteria and expedite the program to compost the litter addition then stop the process to retain a good amount of N P and K only then do we add the lime, gypsum, trace and micro-nutrients.
The addition of bio-char to Antler Dirt will provide a great place for the microbes to live and multiply while the continue to break down matter and make nutrients available to the plant community.
Yes, transportation will be your most limiting factor packaging for small retail sales will be another.
You will find a few people who understand the science and buy without hesitation and many who will have to be convinced.
To succeed here you must have a devotion, a love for soil health and the results that can be achieved by building great soil. I wish you lots of success and hope that we may someday soon have soils like that before man first turned the sod under.
==================================
Yes...very low bulk density makes the economics of biochar questionable. The rates the biochar and compost experts recommend are 0.5-1&quot; thick of material as applied....figure volume or weight...that is still TONS of material...beyond economics for all but gardeners and veg farmers.
If you want biochar....in your field....then burn woody debris when it is too wet to fully combust....whalah...that black residue left is economical CHAR! think...burn units people!
Manure has never needed nor will ever need to be thermally composted....99% of the creatures involved in the soil food web create healthy soil by secreting feces directly onto/into the soil. It's fresh feces....not composted feces! We (humans) are the only species with 'waste management'!
Why thermal compost?....to speed the decay of coarse material into smaller pieces ready for soil activity (humic level or near humic level)....to kill anaerobic microbes....to promote beneficial aerobic organisms....and who actually looks through a microscope to see what organisms are in these composts?....few I bet! Are we sure we have a compost with the right anaerobic organisms our soil needs?....or are we duping Joe Public by marketing compost on NPK content?
IF you have lifeless soil....or terribly abused lifeless soil...then yes AEROBIC compost or compost tea...may be your ticket for faster soil health turnaround!
In most cases....soils have ample life....they suffer some anaerobic issues...and they are not fed properly or fed enough roughage to build a soil composting factory! And the most economical way to reclaim such marginal soil is....full season mixed winter cover crop....spring high density rotational cattle grazing....then full season mix summer cover crop and winter strip grazing.
The difference in economics 'soil composting' vs 'stack composting' ....net return per ac...vs...net deficit per acre!
Case rested.....bed time.....southern great plains soil health conference begins tomorrow...the speakers are the folks who know how to build topsoil health economically....1-3&quot; in as many years!! No vendor show here! (INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED) (INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED)
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Originally Posted by dgallow
Yes...very low bulk density makes the economics of biochar questionable. The rates the biochar and compost experts recommend are 0.5-1&quot; thick of material as applied....figure volume or weight...that is still TONS of material...beyond economics for all but gardeners and veg farmers.
If you want biochar....in your field....then burn woody debris when it is too wet to fully combust....whalah...that black residue left is economical CHAR! think...burn units people!
By definition Bio-char is created in a low oxygen / no oxygen environ. Open burning yeilds ash and charcoal which is beneficial carbon but is not bio-char.
Manure has never needed nor will ever need to be thermally composted....99% of the creatures involved in the soil food web create healthy soil by secreting feces directly onto/into the soil. It's fresh feces....not composted feces! We (humans) are the only species with 'waste management'!
Which would you rather grow your food in, compost made with manure as an ingredient or feces? Composting does consume some nutrient value but in turn produces matter in a state that is beneficial to all soil organisms in much less time than mother nature.
Why thermal compost?....to speed the decay of coarse material into smaller pieces ready for soil activity (humic level or near humic level)....to kill anaerobic microbes....to promote beneficial aerobic organisms....and who actually looks through a microscope to see what organisms are in these composts?
We do.
....few I bet!
Agreed.
Are we sure we have a compost with the right anaerobic organisms our soil needs?
We are sure of the organisms we employ as we are sure that the organisms best suited to the conditions and job will be the most populous. A great variety of matter improves the variety of organisms present in the compost.
....or are we duping Joe Public by marketing compost on NPK content?
No dupe. We test every row and yes we report NPK content as well as other values. Our customers need to know what is being applied. I am the first person to stop and explain that NPK values are seconded by the value of the micro-organisms and fungi and the work they do. Do not let your love of char over ride the knowledge of the value of humic content, which by the way we test also.
IF you have lifeless soil....or terribly abused lifeless soil...then yes AEROBIC compost or compost tea...may be your ticket for faster soil health turnaround!
In most cases....soils have ample life....they suffer some anaerobic issues...and they are not fed properly or fed enough roughage to build a soil composting factory! And the most economical way to reclaim such marginal soil is....full season mixed winter cover crop....spring high density rotational cattle grazing....then full season mix summer cover crop and winter strip grazing.
Absolutely correct. But most food plots are eaten bare and leave little for the soil and many food plotters do not have the means to crop like that. If you dont have the matter to give back in crop form then you need to feed. Feed the soil with compost and build healthy soil or feed the crop with fertilizers and continue taking from the soil and getting less than desired results.
The difference in economics 'soil composting' vs 'stack composting' ....net return per ac...vs...net deficit per acre!
Case rested.....bed time.....southern great plains soil health conference begins tomorrow...the speakers are the folks who know how to build topsoil health economically....1-3&quot; in as many years!! No vendor show here! (INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED) (INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED)
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You might be referring to &quot;improving&quot; 1 to 3 inches of existing top soil to some degree but you should clarify that you are not claiming to build 3 inches of topsoil in 3 years. Work with log landings, destroyed soils from pine timber plantations, low ph hardwood ridges of stone and little organic matter and no top soil. You refer to speakers who are discussing improving soils already in production which is noble and important. Many of our customers are right there and are succeeding with our product but many more are starting with soils that wont grow rag weeds or wont germinate seed or hold water, we are succeeding with these plots and fields as well.
 
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Originally Posted by Antler Dirt John
You might be referring to &quot;improving&quot; 1 to 3 inches of existing top soil to some degree but you should clarify that you are not claiming to build 3 inches of topsoil in 3 years. Work with log landings, destroyed soils from pine timber plantations, low ph hardwood ridges of stone and little organic matter and no top soil. You refer to speakers who are discussing improving soils already in production which is noble and important. Many of our customers are right there and are succeeding with our product but many more are starting with soils that wont grow rag weeds or wont germinate seed or hold water, we are succeeding with these plots and fields as well.
==================================
I have no affiliation with nor promotion of biochar because at this point it is unfeasible at field scale.
John good points....do realize that most of these speakers started with highly degraded soils and ecosystems.
John, I wish you were at the Southern Soil Health meetings in Ardmore earlier this week....you would have gotten some great ideas and made some contacts which might increase Antler Dirt penetration further into the ag sector.
The Mossy Oak property in the black belt MS area purchased and regenerated by Allan Williams is a prime example of a degraded ecosystem and degraded fields....it is now a dual grass fed beef operation and wildlife/hunting enterprise....average antler score jumped from 120s to 170s....ask Allan for yourself and watch his videos to understand the process!
Yes, there are 'deer people' floating around at these meetings....Darin Williams (KS) is one who started his mixed cover crop/soil health journey in deer food plots before applying that field scale. He makes a deer plot mix and markets it through Green Cover Seed.
John Heerman (Haxton CO) is using 40 lb/ac of pelleted compost (Royal Organics out west I believe) mixed with seed in his air drill....his soils are degraded and a very low rainfall area to boot.
Some discussion of Quorum Sensing was also done at the meeting.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quorum_sensing
The bottom like here is that these folks ultimately are increasing the Brix content of forages, crops, and cover crops to very high levels. A high level of plant Brix is what makes grass finished beef possible and deer with larger antlers possible on a low budget and in a sustainable fashion...simply by amplifying and balancing the soil microbial community.
I did address the comment you made above earlier, &quot;IF you have lifeless soil....or terribly abused lifeless soil...then yes AEROBIC compost or compost tea...may be your ticket for faster soil health turnaround!&quot;
I consider Antler Dirt to fall more in the 'compost category' than in the 'fertilizer category'....simply because you are purporting it as a 'soil microbial stimulant/inoculant'.....as it should be! The NPK content of AD is irrelevant to me (as is the NPK content of manure, irrelevant). The on-site delivery of an organic product with viable aerobic microbes (bacteria, fungi, protozoa and nematodes) is much more important to soil health improvement. I would like to know what the ratio of total fungi : total bacteria is in AD...normally? Can you tweak the compost feedstock to customize AD for producers who either need higher or lower fungi ; bacteria ratios?...specific types of fungi? One needs to look at what is in the soil first to determine the direction to go with compost! Think beyond humus...which is only 1 part of the equation!
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Absolutely correct. But most food plots are eaten bare and leave little for the soil and many food plotters do not have the means to crop like that. If you dont have the matter to give back in crop form then you need to feed. Feed the soil with compost and build healthy soil or feed the crop with fertilizers and continue taking from the soil and getting less than desired results.
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I agree in part to this...but...a big part of not having the 'means to do this' is a mental problem (mental compaction which is resistance to changing the mindset).
The folks who are adamant about soybeans and clovers and brassicas in plots without regards to the importance of grass crops are the ones who will continue to be reliant upon inputs and unable to wean themselves off of inputs (either synthetics or AD). IT is incredibly easy to incorporate grass crops with the above crops which deer won't decimate and provide ample residue for building a functional soil compost factory...and have a dynamite food plot! Food plots getting pounded to the ground are mainly an animal density issue...which is fairly easy to resolve...choot em!
The bottom line question which folks need to ask themselves....Do want to become independent with a soil working for you?....or continually dependent upon others to provide (sell) inputs to you?
That is all the time I have this week....thanks for the discussion! I'm not arguing or trying to change minds...just trying to teach people to think differently about the same observations we each make on a daily basis. Keen observation and proper intuitive thought is a big key to forward progress with soil health and a better quality of life for the land steward!
Best wishes in 16,
Doug
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Very well put.
Tweaking feedstocks will adjust varietal populations and we are learning. Many microbial producers are very reluctant to provide, many cannot provide an &quot;ingredients list&quot; in regards to their soup. Fungi is far more sensitive to extreme temps, ph, sodium content and contaminants like herbicides and pesticides, not to mention what fungicides used up wind of your feedstock fields.
To answer your question, yes we can to a degree include specific varieties of bacteria and fungi. Keep in mind that the cost may be affected depending on the specific needs. Many feedstocks take much greater lengths of time to saturate and decompose, especially woody feedstocks.
We also can feed enzymes to cause population increases but if the soil does not contain the required / desired matter (feedstock) to support the desired varieties they will not last. That is why we use the compost as the medium. It provides housing and food for the microbials as well as feeds the plants.
We never intended to replace crops that aid in building soil, only in facilitate and improve their ability to do so.
 
END OF TRANSFER FROM QDMA FORUMS
 
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