AU buck IV updates? anyone?

[yoderjac]

Sure, but I'll do it in a new thread since it applies to all the rootmaker trees I plant in heavy clay. http://www.habitat-talk.com/index.php?threads/planting-rootmaker-trees-in-heavy-clay-soil.6458/

 

[yoderjac]

Well, I finally got all 4 AU Bucks planted today. Since I knew a chestnut will not pollinate a genetic clone, and since my Dunstans are grown from seed so I don't know what the detailed characteristics will be, I decided to plant these AU Buck III, AU Buck IV, AU Buck III, AU Buck IV and away from the Dunstans. It will be interesting to see what happens next year...

Will the release of the roots reduce or stop nut production. Will the planting distance (about 18') reduce pollination and nut production compared to the RB2s sitting next to each other on my deck? Will significant vegetative growth begin again?

Time will tell...

 

[split toe]

It looks like the AU chestnuts are being shipped in 3 gallon rootmaker bags this year.

 

[yoderjac]

It looks like the AU chestnuts are being shipped in 3 gallon rootmaker bags this year.

They must be 2 year old trees. What are they selling them for this year?

 

[Eggman]

My Auburn buck IV came just the way you see it from The Wildlife Group. I am not sure what that tape is for.

 

[yoderjac]

My Auburn buck IV came just the way you see it from The Wildlife Group. I am not sure what that tape is for.

Very interesting. I wonder if they are changing their process. I wonder if that is grafted rather than nut grafted. Did it come in a 5" rootrapper bag like my nut grafted trees or did it come in the 3 gal rootrapper bags as Split toe describes?

Thanks,

Jack

 

[ts_13]

Isnt that a really high graft if in fact that is what it is?

 

[yoderjac]

Isnt that a really high graft if in fact that is what it is?

It depends of the type of graft (if it is a graft). As I understand it, chestnuts are not particularly easy to graft. The original AU Bucks were nut grafted. That is what I got the first year they sold them. For those not familiar with nut grafting, there are several nut grafting techniques, but one is to cut the tip off the nut and make a square cut with a special xacto knife A tiny scion is inserted into the nut. It is kept in a high humidity environment until another root radicle forms. This kind of graft is very unique looking. My trees look a bit odd down at the soil line.

As for the height of the graft in the picture (if it is a graft), if it is a whip and tongue graft, it is best done where the diameter of the scion matches the diameter of the root stock. That can be higher or lower depending on the scion and rootstock at the time of grafting. I would be surprised if it actually is a graft, but you never know.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[Eggman]

When I received my trees they were in small 3 gallon pots.

 

[Neahawg]

I got two last Dec and they were either chip or t budded. They are tiny little things and great vdryittle this year though the claim to expect that. Mine you could tell were grown in a root trapper bag but shipped in clear plastic. No tape was placed on my trees.

 

[yoderjac]

I got two last Dec and they were either chip or t budded. They are tiny little things and great vdryittle this year though the claim to expect that. Mine you could tell were grown in a root trapper bag but shipped in clear plastic. No tape was placed on my trees.

Very interesting. Looks like they are changing techniques. I know nut grafting is pretty tough.

 

[Neahawg]

I think nut grafting is the better choice for long term survivability, seems a lot of people are loosing the tree at the graft union. I'm sure they are able to graft more chip and t budding though.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

[yoderjac]

Yes, I presume it is a volume related decision. I haven't had success with the few times I've tried nut grafting. Others who have had success with it say it isn't a real high success rate. I'm glad I got my few trees early when they were nut grafting.