Apple tree issue - bark splitting

Turkey Creek

5 year old buck +
Has anybody else seen this before and know the cause?



I have noticed this on a few of my trees in my nursery. My thinking is that it is environmental damage, maybe hail (which we havent had much of THANKFULLY) and or high winds which we have had a lot of. We have been abnormally wet the last few weeks as well, wondering if my trees arent growing too fast. However the damage doesnt appear on the most recent growth, but on growth that was earlier in the growing season. Doesnt appear to be hurting the trees at this point, but obviously in the long run I see room for bug and disease issues.

I also noticed some splits in my B118 rootstocks. Like someone has taken a knife and scored the bark, not open splits like the ones pictured. First year growing on B118 ..... so maybe that is normal??

Thanks
 
Could be. Not sure that it is though. I havent seen any cicadas in the area and I have been spraying Seven on my seedlings. Any other thoughts?
 
Hey Turkey Creek

I've got the same problem.
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I've posted pics on several fourms and gotten all different answers :confused:. I first thought cicada damage too, but annual ciciadas don't usually show up until July-August , and I haven't seen or heard any here either. Some folks said it was fire blight, but I have no "shepherd hooks" on the new growth. Some said scab o_O, some said southwestern disease :confused:. So I don't know what to believe. I've seen it on almost all of my apple and pear trees. We did have a hail storm a couple of weeks ago so maybe that's it. Maya had hail damage this year so hopefully he'll look in and give us his expert opinion. I'm also worried about insect & disease entering the tree through these wounds.
 
I'm really not sure Turkey, except to say I do not think it is hail based on my trees. The damage on mine is on the tops of branches and one side of the trees only, and also has an indentation into the branch with physical damage into the wood. Is it all around the trees? On new trees? What have you done for fertilization, spraying, etc.? It seems as though it might be as a result to stress from something or a lack of nutrients of some sort. I would get in touch w/ your extention service and do a leaf analysis this August.

This is a look at my hail damageDSCN2408.JPG
 
One more thought, cold injury. It doesn't even have to be a the coldest of the cold temps, just to cold for say November. The average temp is say 50, for a daytime high and you get a wild temp swing down to the 20's could do it. If that is the case I would think they will heal over fine.
 
We did have some 90 degree days followed by low 70 days. Evening temps into the low 50s. I will try forwarding the pic to a couple other extension/educator type people. I will report back with any different news.
 
Could be the result of sun scald.
 
I was at my property today working and noticed the same exact issue on one of my apple trees. Except the damage on my tree was much closer to the base of the tree on the trunk not on branches. At least for the damage to this tree, I can rule out hail damage and sun scald.

I would guess either cold damage or stress from over pruning. I cut this tree back pretty hard in late March. Here is the picture. There is further damage/ open wounds closer to the ground you can't see because of the window screen.

Same thing or different? Any suggestions on what to do?

1404084245.jpg
 
MMRyan: why can you rule out sun scald? Sun scald, contrary to the sound of the name, is related to cold as much as anything else. Cracks in the bark of trees are often related to sun scald .
 
It would be nice to know what was really the reason, but I bet they will heal over and be fine regardless of the reason.
 
I looked a little more closely at mine just now. All the damage is on the west side of the trees, and is in growth that has hardened off. No damage on green shoots, at least not as of yet.
 
I have the bark splitting on my pear and persimmon trees too. I also see it on native maple, sassafras, & birch limbs. I emailed some pics to my local forester to see what he says.
 
Noticed the same issue on the Bradford Pear in my front yard yesterday. That tree is at least 6-7 years old and has a DBH of 6". I have never noticed it in past years on this tree.
 
Sunscauld is most often found on the south or southwest side of the tree.

Exceptions do occur if the tree is more exposed on a different side but protected on the southwest.
 
I was at my property today working and noticed the same exact issue on one of my apple trees. Except the damage on my tree was much closer to the base of the tree on the trunk not on branches. At least for the damage to this tree, I can rule out hail damage and sun scald.

I would guess either cold damage or stress from over pruning. I cut this tree back pretty hard in late March. Here is the picture. There is further damage/ open wounds closer to the ground you can't see because of the window screen.

Same thing or different? Any suggestions on what to do?

1404084245.jpg

I have been using excess window screen and doubling or actually quadrupling it on the southwest side of trees to shade the trunk. The splitting does not occur on new growth, but on smooth barked trees that are exposed to severe temperature drops as the sun sets on winter days. Shading of the trunk reduces this. I actually like a few taller weeds along the south and Sw sides of trees.
 
Here is what I mean by doubling or quadrupling window screen for shade.IMG_7485 sunscauld protection.jpg
 
Leave some tall weeds on the SW side of trees. (It helps spruce survive a cold,IMG_7486  sunscauld protection.jpg dry winter sun, also.)
 
Here is another method I have used to prevent sunscauld.
IMG_7487 sunscauld protection.jpg

I just slip a tree tube inside of a quarter inch mesh cage.

On some 6 inch diameter trees in our yard, I have duct taped tree tubes around the trunk for the winter. Once the trees get old enough to have rough bark, they do not have a problem.
 
I painted mine with a 50/50 mix of white latex paint and water. It worked out good as the next year I had little to no sunscald on my trees.
 
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