Project W: Columnar Apple Shot Plot

Here are some potted trees that I T-budded last year with USDA GRIN budwood. A couple tbuds did not take and I lost a couple more to either my in-delicate handling or squirrels looking for maple seeds. These were meant for crossing with my columnar apple trees. Each variety also was t-budded onto P18 in my full size orchard. Now that I can harvest pollen and hand pollinate and knowthat I do not like dealing with potted trees, these are not really needed. For now they serve as scionwood for anything that failed to take on P18 and then these will get moved to the orchard on my folks farm. The ones on M27 are probably too weak to do much so those might get discarded. The ones on G11 might get moved into a caged shot plot to compare that to the columnar plots I do. I have some more trees in the nursery on G.41 for that purpose too.

The best one of the bunch is Kandil Sinap on G.11, about 20" tall.

potted 2015 t buds - tallest is kandil sinap.jpg
 
So the ones you cross pollinated and have produced an apple or 2 you will pick those at maturity and harvest the seeds. Using those seeds to create a columnar apple tree w/ the pollinated varieties genetics also attached for disease resistance?
 
BV,

Yes that is the general approach. Cross columnar varieties to modern DR apples, fireblight resistant crabs, and some cider apples. I am more interested in crossing to more recent columnar varieties that have already have scab resistance. Initially, I will include open pollinated crosses too.
I'll collect seeds from my columnar apples this fall, stratify, and start indoors next winter, and plant out in May or June. Right now I have about 30 seedlings from columnar apples to plant out, all open pollinated. I'll grow them until they fruit or I decide to discard a tree. I'll discard those that are not columnar as soon as I can be sure. Any with obvious disease problems will go too. Then look at when they flower and when the apples drop. I want to get a variety of flowering and drop times. Then share scions for others to graft and test.

I would like to test for disease resistance to eliminate seedlings faster but I have not figured out how (or maybe where) I will do that. I know how to test for fireblight resistance but do not have a place to do it where I could not cause problems for my other trees.
 
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I finally have my columnar seedlings planted out. These were started inside under lights, some since January but most a couple months younger than that. Took me a while to decide where to plant them and get that prepped. With this hot weather, I really did not have a good chance to acclimate them. With a break in the heat, they went out late saturday afternoon. I got the bed prepped and watered, the fencing partially done. Soaked them, planted from rootmaker 18s. Finished the fence and then added burlap to shade them. I put two layers on the south and west and one layer of burlap overtop. We got a nice rain this morning and a cool cloudy day in the low 70s. Luckily the forecast for this week has moderated a bit and not back close to 90 until Wednesday. Depending on how they look tomorrow night, I might add some more shade screening.
columnar seedlings planted out.jpg
 
Got to my folks to check out my regular orchard and columnar trees. This year's bench grafts are generally doing ok but I continue to lose more there and in my home nursery on 1/2" MM.111 rootstock than on 3/8" B.118 (2nds/regrades). Seems like they have not established roots well enough and the whole thing dies, not just the graft. On last year's tbuds, I think I killed a few by pruing too close above the tbud after it started growing for the year. A number of those have given up but I ran out of time to do a good accounting of my various grafts. Lots of things available for t-budding in a few weeks.

Some Photos:

Columnar - 3 Scarlet Sentinel Tbuds and a 2016 bench graft (smallest) and one to be tbudded again on right end

Scarlet Sentinel 2015 Tbuds and 2016 bench graft and tree on right end needs tbudded again.jpg


2015 Trees Left-Right benchgraft CrimsonSpire-P18, tbud Wijcik Mac-B118, P18 needs Tbudded again, tbud Golden Sentinel on B118
end row of columnars.jpg

Close-up of Tbudded Wijcik Mac on P18
2015 Tbud Wijcik Mac on P18.jpg

Several 2nd leaf rootstocks to be Tbudded again this year.3 2nd leaf rootstock waiting to be T-budded again to columnar varieties.jpg
 
Photos of the Regular Orchard of Apples (many), Pears (10), and a couple sour cherries in the corner.

Upper half of apple orchard with new 2016 bench grafts, last years bench grafts and tbuds, and the larger 2nd leaf trees from Cummins, everything on P18 or B118 rootstock. Need to get ground mats down on the 2016 grafts soon. Now 30ft spacing between row and 15ft within in rowupper half of apple side of the orchard .jpg

The Pear end with 2 cherries in the upper corner. Large pears are 2nd leaf from Cummins. Planted 3 pear rootstock in between, 2 bench grafted and one for later grafting. On the edge of the woods, there are also 3 seedling pears in blue tubes that can be seen too. I field grafted this spring spring. I mostly have perry varieties and a few eating pears .upper west corner of orchard with 2nd leaf pears and some new grafts.jpg
 
A couple regular apple tbuds using wood I got last summer from USDA GRIN.

Weakest still alive is Waubay Crabapple on G222. I thought it was a failure but the bud finally popped in late May or June
weakest surviving 2015 Tbud.jpg

Two T-buds on Polish 18. Not sure which is which but one is PRI77-1 (I think the bigger) and one is a Malus Fusca hybrid
another 2015 tbud on P18.jpg 2015 tbud on P18.jpg
 
As part of my longer term plans, I want to share scionwood with folks that want to try columnar apples. If you are interested, let me know. I would like to get more information on how varieties do under disease pressure with no spray. Love to get some going where scab or CAR or fireblight is bad. I think I can start sharing scionwood next spring for several varieties, more than I will need. Send me a PM or post here.
 
CL, while driving around today i seen some locals side yard that had some apple trees. One i particular is 20 some feet tall, single trunked no side branches but it appears loaded with fruit from the bottom to the top.

Unfortuneatly, i did not have my good zoom cam with me. I suspect this would be a Columnar type variety..


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BV, that reminds me there are some 20 year old columnar apples at an arboretum near Philly. I need drive down that way in the next couple weeks. I'll have to stop by to check them out and get some photos.
 
Got to thinkin about your project today, I know that they are not a true columnar apple variety, at least I dont think so. But I have a apple variety called "Cinnamon". In 2 years in my nursery I have 2, 1 that only has 1 small branch and the other that has yet to put out a branch. Covered with leaves and maybe 3' tall. Let me know if you are interested in a chunk of scion wood to mess with next year.
 
Thanks Chris. If that apple stays like that for couple more years, I'll try some. In the mean time, I'm pretty busy keeping everything going.

I got to my parents farm and looked thing over as I gear up to t-bud soon. I bought 50 each of 1/4" B118 regrades and 1/2" MM111 from Treco. My success has been much better with the 1/4" B118 with 40 of 48 bench grafts still looking good and 2 of the 8 failures died. I found cleft grafts on the 1/2" MM111 to be difficult with a big wound to heal. Quite a few have died or still will with me finding mold around the cleft when I opened it up. Of 45 MM111 that I bench grafted, 13 have failed with 3 more turning brown. Almost all of those MM111 failures have died.

My inventory for T-budding should be about 50 trees or so:
2016 rootstock, some bench graft failures and some not
  • 6 Bud 118
  • 11 MM111
  • 6 G222
  • 2 G41
2015 rootstock - most were t-budded last year
  • 16 Polish 18
  • 7 Bud 118
Plus 2 seedlings planted in 2014

I have more in my nursery that have good bench grafts that I might t-bud if I have time to think about and plan. These are generally duplicates I did to make sure I got one tree from the scionwood I received. I could t-bud them and spend the winter deciding whether I want the bench graft or T-bud.
 
Here are some recent photos of the columnar trees in my backyard. First 7 from right planted last year, next one was budded last august and next 3 planted this spring. A few have some apples hiding among the leaves. Tallest is Golden Sentinel on M7. It was the biggest when purchased and now is a bit over 6.5ft tall. Next tallest is Northpole on M7 which is over 5ft.

columnar trees early Aug 2016.jpg

Tangy Green has 5 or 6 apples in there.
Tangy Green with 5 or 6 apples hiding in the leaves.jpg

Northpole on the right has several apples.

Northpole on the right has 3 or 4 apples in there.jpg

The tree on the left is a 2015 benchgraft of Crimson Spire on P18. Has developed quite a few attempted central leaders that have put on 6 to 12" of growth this year. That should make quite a bit of scionwood when I prune this winter. For comparison, the two trees to the left are last year's t-buds on P18 that have grown just as tall this summer. Those are weeping crabs, Lady Ilgen (middlie) and Elise Rathke on the right. I am curious how much more growth the Elise Rathke would have if I had not left both tbuds grow. One side gets pruned off this winter.crimson spire on P18 2015 benchgraft on left.jpg
 
I have about 35 rootstocks budded with columnar varieties over the last week. Everything has had the bark slipping nicely. I have about another 20 to go in my nursery.

I bought a roll of buddy tape and I have liked using it. It is perforated at 2.75" long. For smaller rootstock, I can now wrap the T-bud with a single piece maybe 50% of the time. Much of what I budded are rootstocks planted last year that are 3/4" tp 1” diameter. Those took 2 or 3 pieces of buddy tape. With over 800pc on the roll, it should last me a few more years.
 
I think I'm done bud grafting columnar trees so I'll stop and take stock of my progress at the end of my 2nd season of grafting.

Two years ago, I bought 7 grafted trees to establish in my backyard and got some scionwood for bench graft. My bench grafts yielded 2 trees and I got 1 more by field grafting what I snipped off the grafted trees. I planted a bunch of P18 and some B118 to bud that summer using what wood I could get off the 7 grafted trees. With the short growing season, some of that budwood might have been immature and I may have removed my pvc tape too early from some. Others I pruned off too close to the bud after growing started and killed the whole tree. I'm not sure how many I budded last year but but I got 9 trees and none in what will be my first shot plot. I collected some scionwood last winter and bench grafted about 18 and only got 5 takes. I know part of my problem using 1/2" caliper rootstock that better matches the thick columnar scions but produced a big cleft wound to heal. I also bought 3 more grafted columnar trees of varieties I did not have.

After all that work and grafting, I have 16 columnar trees that I grafted and 10 that I purchased. While I have learned a lot, I am a little disappointed that I am not farther along. I kind of feel like I lost a year.

On the good side, I now have lots of budwood and scionwood to continue propagating. I have now budded 49 trees in the last couple weeks and I might bud a few good bench grafts in the nursery that I don't need. I am hopeful using buddy tape will increase my success rate and I won't prune the rootstock off so late next year. I can dig up and move my good grafts next spring and set up another shotplot. I have over 25 seedlings I am growing in my backyard to see if they will be columnar. The columnar trees I bought have 7 or 8 apples that I will collect seeds from and start next year...need to decide where those get planted for evaluation.

And I just found out that a scab resistant columnar crab Rosalie will be available next year for sale that should be a great apple for my shotplot. It has 2" apples, ripens in mid October and is said to hang well into November. I will have to find couple even though I think they will be pretty expensive, probably sold as $75 potted ornamental flowering crabs.

I am reconsidering some of my other ideas that are likely to be more of a distraction. For comparison, I wanted to try doing shotplots with dwarf rootstock (G.11 and G41) and interstem trees. I have enough good dwarf trees now to do one but I'll have to decide where and get the site prepped. For the interstems, I got scions from GRIN and elsewhere and bench grafted onto MM111 and B118. For interstems, I used super dwarf (M27, G65, P22 and B146) and dwarf (G11, G41, P2, Ottowa 3). I decided not continue with the larger dwarf interstems and I budded those to columnar trees. None of the super dwarf are far enough along to bud to the interstem or collect budwood. I guess I'll let them stay in my nursery for now and decide later whether and how to proceed. It would be quite a few years to get an interstem shot plot to evaluate. I'd have to do the interstem bud in 2017, bud a deer apple variety onto the interstem in 2018, move to a shotplot in 2019, probably get apples by 2021. Maybe I'll just move them to the farm next spring, cage them, and see what they do.
 
Help me if I'm wrong but after comparing all of you posts, if these are straight trees, say 10-15 feet if your doing extreme dwarfs or close to it, and you cage them. Since they have no side branches how exactly do deer eat the fruit? They would fall straight down inside the cage, correct?
 
Buck, that is a good observation. The photos in the first post don't show it very clearly but the fencing is installed about 6" above the ground and the ground is landscaped so the trees sit on a slight crown. Falling apples drop and roll away from the tree to where deer can reach them. I will adjust the fencing if needed to improve access once I actually have apples dropping.
 
So you essentially though could have a columnar type apple tree on any rootstock type you wanted too?
 
Yes, any rootstock. The scion has the genetic mutation that gives the columnar form with little branching. I have them on M26, M7, M111, Bud 118, Polish 18, whatever Stark uses, and a few seedling rootstocks. Larger rootstock will give a taller tree and may produce more branching or shoots than less vigorous rootstocks.
 
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