Project W: Columnar Apple Shot Plot

Here are my Urban Apple series trees. purchased from Raintree on M26 rootstock. M26 is smaller than I would like but I don't recall any retailers having them on larger rootstock. They are all about 32-34" tall. They look pretty good so far. A few CAR spots on the leaves of Blushing Delight.

My home orchard here in NY is my backyard next to the garden. There is a wood privacy fence all around the backyard. Since I've never had problems with deer in my garden, I have not done any extra protection against deer. I had not added anything against rabbits yet either. These have some low leaves and I found rabbits had torn a few of those off so I added the mesh tube seen in one. I'll clean up the lower trunk and add window screening before fall. I also found I have a mole problem that I am trying to fix ASAP. Because my garden tends to be very wet in the spring, I put the apples in a raised bed bordered by 1 course of concrete block. Given our very wet June this year, I am very glad I did the raised bed. Unfortunately, I recently found that moles or voles were digging under the lumite. Hopefully some zinc phosphide pellets in the tunnels takes care of them but I'm researching other options.

Tangy Green (Goldlane)
Urban Apple Tangy Green on M26.jpg

Blushing Delight (Moonlight)
Urban Apple Blushing Delight on M26.jpg

Tasty Red (Rondo)
Urban Apple Tasty Red on M26.jpg

Golden Treat
Urban Apple Golden Treat on M26.jpg
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Other Breeding Programs

While only 14 varieties are or have been for sale in the US, there is on-going breeding of columnar trees. Here, Cornell is doing some work. Most breeding is in Europe. I would expect those from Russia and Lithuania to be very cold hardy if we could get access to them.

Cornell should have some columnar releases in the future. The head of Cornell's breeding program, Dr. Susan Brown, has discussed that they have columnar crosses with 12 species. By species, she is not referring to common apple but the native Malus species from around the world collected for breeding research. Along with dwarf offspring, she noted some turned out viney. She also noted that as high as 25% of the resulting seedlings have a genetic defect called Pale Green Lethal (PGL) that affects photosynthesis.

Most columnar apple breeding is taking place in Europe. I spent many hours searching the web, doing google translations, and looking at European plant breeder's rights filings and trying to cross-reference things. There may be some duplicates if the larger distributors sell under their own name like Stark does in the U.S.

Institute of Expermental Biology (UEB), Czech Republic. Already discussed is the Institute of Experimental Botany in the Czech Republic that created the 4 Urban Apple varieties and have a dozen columnar releases. I should note that I have seen the Tasty Green with two different research designation, UEB 3812-2 and AK-98. The UEB comes from the Czech program. The AK is more like those from the Geisenheim, Germany breeding program.

Research and Breeding Institute of Pomology, Holovousy, Czech Republic.
4 columnar varieties. Kordona is Wijcik x Florina and Cumulus is Selena x Wijcik. 2 crosses of Telamon (Ultra Spire) with Florina are Herald and Slendera. Slendera is the variety shown in the first post of this thread. This program also released Pidi which is sometimes marketed as columnar but is just a very weak vigor variety.

University of Novi Sad, Serbia. 6 crosses released and found for sale in Europe. These are all Wijcik crosses. 2 with Granny Smith, 1 with Golden Delicious, 1 with Prima, and 2 with Ida Red. Note that Granny Smith is a triploid which means it has 3 sets of chromosomes instead of the normal two (diploid). Triploids are usually said to be pollen sterile so you need two diploid trees planted with a triploid to ensure pollination of all 3 trees. The seeds from a triploid will often have problems with viability and growth. For those that germinate and grow, many will have genetic deformities. But it is possible to get functioning apple trees from a cross with a triploid.

Research Institute Geisenheim, Germany. Has released 2 series of columnar trees. Based on the research designations, the crosses occurred in the mid to late 1990s and plant rights filings were made from 2004 to 2009. All are crosses with the Spire series. Mostly crossed with European apples like Elstar and Topaz. Topaz is a scab resistant variety developed by the UEB in Czech R.
The 6 trees of Pom series (Pomforyou, Pompink, Pomredrobust, Pomfital, Pomfit, Pomgold). 3 of these were also marketed under names from King Arthur.
The 5 trees of the Cats series (Goldcats, Greencats, Redcats, Starcats, Suncats). Cats stands for columnar apple tree system.

Russia, Lithuania, Latvia, Poland. I found 29 trees coming from these areas but it was hard to find much out about them, sometimes just a nursery listing (Like this with about 20 varieties, http://www.vitaflora.lt/en/by-plant...by,product_name/results,31-130?language=en-GB). I would guess the Russian trees are pretty cold hardy. For the Russian trees that I found breeder/variety rights, those filings date to from 2002 to 2005. The Russian variety Arbat has been called the first scab resistant columnar release. I would guess their breeding program ended as I could not find them on the web. Some of these Russian trees were picked up and marketed by a large German wholesaler, Kraemer. The Lithuanian Institute of Horticulture is activeand has releases with variety rights filings from 2009 to 2012. I could not find information on their releases but they have been publishing interesting papers on columnar trees. I found the paper that measured growth in the nursery on various rootstocks to be helpful. I found some Latvian research papers on columnar but no releases. 1 apparent Polish release. A number of those from this region I only know from the nursery listings.

Large Nurseries: Nursery George Delbard in France and Lubera of Switzerland. I do not know if these are rebranded like Stark does or not. It seems that Delbard does their own breeding. The only Lubera variety that had breeder's rights pointed to a Dutch research institute.
Delbard filed breeder's rights on 2 of their 11 columnar releases. Most of the Delbard trees have a Delbard name, a French marketing name, and an English marketing name. For example, decloti/Red River/Villandry are all the same. Of the 11 varieties, 6 still appear on their website (http://www.georgesdelbard.com/CT-790-pommiers-colonnaires.aspx). The Delbard trees appear to be true columnar trees.​
Lubera has 7 columnar trees (including a red-fleshed I just found) that are marketed under the Malini brand iwth itallian names like Fresco and Pronto. I found breeders rights for the Pronto that pointed to a Dutch research institute. The Lubera trees appear to be true columnar. 5 are shown on their website now. (http://www.lubera.co.uk/plants/fruit-trees/pome-fruit/malini-columnar-apple-trees/)​

From Pillnitz in Dresden Germany, I found a series of 4 trees that are called columnar but appear to be just low vigor spur type trees.
 
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The posts so far covered those 14 varieties available in the US and the 60 to 80 varieties available in Europe. If I had access to all of those Euro apples with permission to graft them, this project would be easier. Working with others interested in trying this concept, we'd exchange scions and budwood to try them out around the country on a variety of rootstocks. As we found out which had big problems with scab, CAR, and fireblight, we'd cross those off the list. But I just have the 14 to work with right now. I do not know what to expect from them for disease resistance. I expect a few of these to be hardy enough for a shot plot but not enough to get a variety of drop times. So I plan to start breeding new columnar trees too. The next few posts will talk about breeding and how I think I will go about it. Given how few resources I have compared to the professionals, this effort will be slower and less complete. On the other hand, all I'm looking for is disease resistance and hardiness. A shot plot columnar apple does not have to taste great, look pretty, be a particular size, or keep in storage. It just has to thrive with no care while dropping apples between September and January.
 
I need to start taking more photos for this series as I do my work.

I was going to talk about breeding now but I'll discuss propagation instead.

Propagation

I need to rapidly propagate trees onto various rootstocks and start shot plot field trials. I purchased a limited number of columnar trees and do want to buy more trees on unsuitable rootstocks to get more materials for grafting. At some point, I may look into doing some amateur micropropagation but right now I am focused on grafting. If all goes well, I'll have plenty of material for my field trials and be able to share scionwood or budwood in a few years for others to try this. I am going to propagate the two patented varieties for my rootstock trials but will not share those scions. As long as I do not share those, I figure that this is a benefit to them even if I don't know how to pay them a few dollars in royalties.

In spring 2015, I planted some B.118 and a large number of P.18 rootstocks. I also had 8 seedling apple trees planted a year earlier that I will use for columnar trees. I bench grafted some P.18 with North Pole and Crimson, Scarlet, and Emerald Spires with scions from Maple Valley. Of those, only two Crimson Spires were successful, one planted in the home breeding orchard and 1 in the farm orchard. When I planted my purchased columnar trees in early May, I pruned some of those trees. I figured I should try field grafting the pruned bits onto rootstock then. I only got one successful graft but that was was better than just composting the pruned wood.

This past weekend I started T budding from the purchased columnar trees. I reviewed some videos on youtube and rounded up my grafting tape and budding knife. I surveyed my grafted trees and decided there were some 3-4" limbs down low or around the crown that could be removed. I cut one or two off each tree Saturday morning, snipped off the leaves leaving the stem, and packed each variety with a wet paper towel in its own labeled ziplock bag. I should have taken photos. After I had them cut, I thought maybe some were too immature for bud grafting but I was committed to trying now. I put them in a cooler and started the 2 hour drive south to the family farm.

I had two locations to graft at the farm. The shot plot has 9 P.18 and 3 empty spots. In the new farm orchard, there is a row on the bottom/south side dedicated to columnar trees. It is planted at a 2-3ft spacing with room to add more to complete that row and add another row. In addition to the successful Crimson Spire/P.18 and Tangy Green/B.118 cleft grafts, this row has the 8 seedlings, 9 B.118, and 14 P.18.

After a wet June and start to July, they've had less than 1/4" in the last 2 weeks. My father watered these for a couple days and I watered heavily when I arrived Saturday. I started bud grafting after supper and worked until dark. I budded 22 trees in the orchard. Bark slipped nicely. I got at least 2 grafts of each variety including a B.118. I decided I had more buds than rootstock and I was worried about the maturity of the buds. I decided should double bud to improve my odds. Sunday morning I started budding in the shot plot but the bark wasn't slipping as nice. I watered them again and budded the rest a few hours later. I budded 7 trees with 6 varieties in the shot plot. I went back to the farm orchard, budded a few more and added a second bud to the previous grafts until I ran out.

Later this week I plan to get budwood for the columnar Maypole crabapple from a nearby arboretum. I will graft that into the shot plot, the farm orchard, and my home orchard. I have Wijcik McIntosh on order from GRIN and will bud put that in the home orchard and the fenced orchard.

I'll take pictures of my grafts next weekend and as I graft the Maypole.

Grafting the columnar trees is a little more challenging and inefficient because the buds are so close together. Here are some pictures I took today to illustrate.

Here is a G.11 rootstock. It is pretty mature growth and the buds are about an inch apart. You could take almost everyone of these buds to graft.G11 rootstock growht.jpg

Compare that to my Golden Sentinel with closely spaced buds all around the limb. You can only take a few buds to graft. Some were spaced a little farther apart than this. This tree had several sticks I could have taken so I left this one to continue maturing. It could be taken as scionwood in the spring but I will only get a couple cleft grafts out of it vs 4 to 6 bud grafts.

golden sentinel new growth buds.jpg
 
I had a disappointment. I had found an arboretum a couple hour drive from me that listed a Maypole columnar crabapple from Stark in their collection. I emailed a couple months ago to ask if I could get budwood. They said yes and i drove up this weekend. Turns out it was not a columnar crab but clearly labeled Maypole and Stark. Bummer. Next time I'll ask for a photo.
 
Breeding Post 1

My plan is to grow regular apple trees on dwarf rootstocks in pots. This will allow me to protect blooming trees inside a small insect exclusion cage and hand pollinate. There are plenty of flowering crabs around the neighborhood so they'll get pollinated by those if I let it happen naturally.

Next was my choice of what to cross with the columnar trees. This may have been a little easier if I had found and read this link on Purdue's website (http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/pri/chapter.pdf). This was a good read and may have changed my philosophy some. Rather than choose the typical disease resistant apples, I figured I would be better off looking for more crabs so I could get smaller apples. I figure more small apples are better for deer. This chapter points out that breeders throw out the large number of small apples that are otherwise good to find something they think will be a commercial success. But because of the many genes involved in apple size, crossing two large apples will yield an average apple size that is smaller than either parent. I searched through the GRIN database for crabs to include in my crosses so I could get smaller apples. I'll add the regular DR apples onto dwarf rootstock next year.

In searching the GRIN database, I started with only those rated very resistant to fireblight. Then I started looking at fruit size (generally 20 to 50mm or .75" to 2"), harvest season (they are ranked relative to Delicious), ploidy (no triploids), stem length and stem thickness. I started to look at whether it hangs on the tree but most say hang past maturity and many crabs are all winter so I decided it was not that useful. As my thinking evolved, I decided I did not want an all winter hanger for a shot plot. Based on that, I started looking for shorter stems and thinner stems as these can help an apple drop once it ripe. As I narrowed my list down, I read through the descriptions looking for any reason to eliminate a selection. For named varieties, I did a web search for additional information. I am also aware that the GRIN observations could be wrong due to an input error, may not be available, or could vary from year to year or could be location dependent. Sometimes information is contradictory. Since breeding involves chance, I kept some things without having a great reason. I eliminated anything more than 20-30 days earlier than Delicious and nothing was selected that is more than 10 days later than Delicious. I ordered more things than I have dwarf rootstock but plan to graft some of the smaller crabs onto some flowering crabs to preserve and and decide whether to use later. I'll go over my order when I get the chance and my rational for each.

I have not gotten an e-mail about when it will ship but it is supposed to ship by 8/20. I ordered back in May and exchanged e-mails with them to confirm I wanted budwood. If it does not come this week for any reason, I'll switch gears and bud my breeding rootstock with the usual DR apples that I have or could bum easily off nearby folks like Aerospacefarmer.
 
Breeding Post 2

Here are the apples I plan to breed with eventually. All are very resistant to fireblight.

The largest apple I am including in my breeding is Dabinett. It is GRIN PI 589073 although I am going to bud with wood from the tree I purchased this spring from Cummins. Dabinett is a bittersweet cider variety with pretty good disease resistance. Mid October harvest and listed as 5-10 days before Delicious. GRIN's description includes "drops from tree as they ripen" which I think is ok Good fireblight and scab resistance. The only real negative I've found is the tendency for biannual production.
GRIN Page http://www.ars-grin.gov/cgi-bin/npgs/acc/display.pl?1008346
PI_589073.jpg


Next are two trees grown from seeds collected in Kazakhstan. These are listed as Malus Sieversii. Both give a small apple about 2" in diameter. One concern is that the harvest times in their notes are much earlier in 2005 than noted when collected in 1996.

KAZ 96 05-04, PI 613988, half of the crosses made between this and Gala were scab resistant.
http://www.ars-grin.gov/cgi-bin/npgs/acc/display.pl?1531529
PI_613988.jpg


KAZ 96 03-09 "elite scion material"
http://www.ars-grin.gov/cgi-bin/npgs/acc/display.pl?1531523
PI_613986.JPG
 
Breeding Post 3 Large crabs, all resistant to fireblight of the shoots.

Jonsib Crab, PI 589824, Jonathan x Irkutsk (M. baccata). Introd. 1938. Scab resistant. Late ripening 10 days after Delicious. a Hansen crab.
http://www.ars-grin.gov/cgi-bin/npgs/acc/display.pl?1020573
PI_589824.JPG


Waubay Crab, PI 589617, grimes golden x mercer (or I have in my notes from somewhere maybe wolf river x mercer), 10 days before Delicious, a Hansen crab, blooms and shoots resistant to fireblight.
http://www.ars-grin.gov/cgi-bin/npgs/acc/display.pl?1018488
PI_589617.JPG


Unnamed Chinese crab Malus x Asiatica, PI 594099, 20-30 days before Delicious. Except for the KAZ apples, the earliest apple I am currently planning to breed with.
http://www.ars-grin.gov/cgi-bin/npgs/acc/display.pl?1519455
PI_594099.JPG

Unnamed Chinese crab, Malus x Asiatica Nakai, PI 613921, 10 days before Delicious. short stem should help drop off tree. Tetraploid gives potential to create triploid offspring. Probably a darn good apple for early bow season.
http://www.ars-grin.gov/cgi-bin/npgs/acc/display.pl?1600288
PI_613921.JPG
 
Breeding Post 4. 1" to 1.25" crabs

These are about as small as I intend to breed. Since I ordered more budwood varieties from GRIN than I have dwarf rootstock, some will be grafted onto other trees at the farm for potential future use in breeding.

PRI 77-1 scab resistant (wolf river x sieboldi 2982-22), PI 589786, as late as Delicious. 1.1" crab, bitter. very resistant to fireblight for both blooms and shoots. From the Purdue, Rutgers, Illinois (PRI) breeding co-op.
http://www.ars-grin.gov/cgi-bin/npgs/acc/display.pl?1020291
PI_589786.JPG


Unnamed cross with Pacific Crab. PI 589260 Malus fusca x M. pumila; originated in Arnold Arboretum 1881, very resistant to fireblight for both blooms and shoots. 10 days later than Delicious.
http://www.ars-grin.gov/cgi-bin/npgs/acc/display.pl?1013183
PI_589260.jpg


Not currently planned for breeding:
unnamed crab, PI 589407, 10 days before delicious. Tetraploid could give triploid offspring. blooms moderately resistant to fireblight. Bloom resistance is not listed for most trees in GRIN.
http://www.ars-grin.gov/cgi-bin/npgs/acc/display.pl?1016486
PI_589407.JPG
 
Breeding Post 5, crabs 1/2" to 1"

Given what I have learned about expected apple size from crossing larger apples, these are probably unnecessary. I'll get some uncontrolled crosses with small crabs from the surrounding neighborhood.

Unnamed crab, PI 589170, "(Malus brevipes) Introduced into cultivation in 1883." Very resistant to fireblight of blooms and shoots. Short stem unlike most small crabs. Contradictory data on ripening. Observations page says 30-50 days before Delicious while written description says mid October 1 week after Delicious.
http://www.ars-grin.gov/cgi-bin/npgs/acc/display.pl?1010777
PI_589170.JPG


"Presicifolia", Malus x robusta, PI 589383, 10 days later than Delicious. Scab resistant. Short stem compared to most small crabs.
http://www.ars-grin.gov/cgi-bin/npgs/acc/display.pl?1016295
PI_589383.jpg
 
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Breeding Post 6. Very small crabs, 1/2"

There are many many small crabs available on GRIN to support flowering crab breeding. The only one that really caught my eye was Novole, the rootstock selected by Jim Cummins because it was unpalatable to voles. I have intended to graft it onto dwarf roostock in a pot and then layer the branches to get it onto its own roots. I could then start my own stool beds. I recently found a related patent that mentions Novole can be rooted from cuttings (http://www.google.com/patents/US4516353). I am undecided whether to put it on my dwarf rootstock now. I'll probably grow it on full size trees at the farm and try rooting cuttings and getting from that to stool beds for my use.

Novole, PI 590174, ripens close to Delicious.
http://www.ars-grin.gov/cgi-bin/npgs/acc/display.pl?1024901
PI_590174.JPG
 
I was uncertain about adding Novole on my dwarf breeding rootstock. Instead, I budded it onto two P.18 at the farm and put several buds onto watersprouts on a crabapple. Assuming any of those take, I should have plenty of Novole to work with in the future.

Instead of Novole, I budded an apple called Kandil Sinap. PI 613948. Said to be from Ukraine or Turkey. No strong reason for choosing it. It fit the profile I was looking for and has an interesting shape and name.
http://www.ars-grin.gov/cgi-bin/npgs/acc/display.pl?1562967
PI_613948.JPG
 
I got my order from the USDA GRIN by UPS Wednesday morning. It was overnighted but that is not a big deal since Geneva is only 90 minutes away. My wife put them in the fridge. I left work a little early and budded my dwarf rootstock that afternoon. Then drove to my folks place and budded the GRIN selections there too.

I triple budded those I put onto M.27 rootstocks and double budded those on G.11. A couple G.11 were unsuccessful bench grafts and the other branched and grew vigrously. I found it hard to get 2 buds onto the trunk of those. The one "failed" bench graft was a Dolgo that was alive but had never grown more than the three leaves. I budded below it. The same scion had done little on a G.222 at the farm and I budded Kerr from GRIN below that Dolgo.

Since the G.11 is a larger dwarf, I tried to put the weaker, lower vigor trees onto G.11 and the more vigorous onto the M.27. I did not know this for all trees so the rest were randomly assigned. G.11 got Dabinett, PI 58910 Malus Brevipes, PI 589786 PRI 77-1, PI 613988 KAZ 96 05-04, and PI613948 Kandil Sinap. The six M.27 got PI 589824 Jonsib crab, PI 589617 Waubay crab, PI 613986 KAZ 96 03-09, PI 589260 M. Fusca x M. Pumila, PI 594099 M. x Asiatica, and PI 613921 M. x Asiatica Nakai. Each of the GRIN selections was budded onto a P.18 rootstock in the farm orchard.

PI 590186 Wijcik McIntosh got budded onto a P.18 in the home orchard and a B.118 and a seedling apple at the farm.

I had two small crabs that I did not put onto to breeding rootstock that I grafted on P.18 in a hedgerow, PI589383 "Persicifolia" and PI 589252 "Rosedale".
I budded the Novole onto two P.18 that are in my shotplot. If those buds take, I'll have to dig those up and move them to another location next year. Similarly, I budded some weeping crabs onto some P.18 planted in my breeding orchard. If those take, I'll dig them up and move to the farm.
 
Assuming I have a decent success rate with my bud grafts, I'll say this a great way to propagate and one I see myself using quite a bit in the future of this project. If you have access to the budwood, you can bud a more trees than you can bench graft with the same amount of scionwood and it went fast. If your rootstock does not have great roots or buds, it is nice to get it in the ground and let it recover and start growing roots. But for people wanting to do one or two trees of a new variety, bench grafting works well and it is easier to get scionwood but you may loose some rootstock if the graft fails and the rootstock does not leaf out. It does seem like you lose a year's growth with bud grafting but maybe you make up for that with better roots on a budded tree?
 
With this year winding down, I need to plan out next year. I want next spring to be easier on me and everyone else. For columnar trees, I have 10 openings in the breeding orchard, 5 in the 1st shot plot, could set up another shotplot, and add as many columnar trees to the farm orchard as I have time to plant. I could also get another 10 dwarf rootstocks for the breeding orchard and graft the usual disease resistant apples onto those. I do not anticipate having a lot of columnar scionwood or budwood available next year so if I buy a bunch of rootstock, most of it would not get grafted 2017.

The regular tree section of the farm orchard is almost full with just 2 spots left. It is mostly P.18 and B.118 on 30 ft spacing. Since 30ft is generous, I have been toying with the idea of adding more trees. I could add offset rows (new trees centered in the middle of 4 current trees) and end up with about 20ft spacing. That would add 18 trees on B.118. Or maybe I add a larger Geneva (G.202, G.222, G.30) in between trees within each row and get about 24 more trees. I would guess they will still get decent sunlight when the P.18 and B.118 are full grown with 15 ft spacing in the row and 30ft between rows.

If I am smart, I'll order 15 B.118, 10 MM.111, 10 MM.106, and 5 dwarf. If I cannot help myself, I'll order 50 or 100 each of the semidwarfs from a wholesale distributor and try to get all those into the ground next spring.
 
Here is an example of what a columnar shot plot might look like in 20 years. I found this photo on the yahoo scion exchange group (no idea who is in the photo). This is at Longwood Gardens near Philadelphia. They planted 9 trees from Stark in 1994. In 2007, they measured them at 15 ft tall.

From left to right per the Longwood website:
Ultra Spire (Telamon)
Crimson Spire (Obelisk)
Emerald Spire (Tuscan)
Scarlet Spire (Trajan)
Maypole Crabapple
Ultra Spire (Telamon)
Emerald Spire (Tuscan)
Crimson Spire (Obelisk)
Scarlet Spire (Trajan)

Longwood Gardens L-R Telamon Obelisk Tuscan Trajan Maypole Telamon Tuscan Obelisk Trajan.jpg
 
Here is a T-bud graft I made august 23rd that has already leafed out. The budwood came from the Dabinett I bought from Cummins this spring. The T-bud is to G.11 rootstock in my breeding orchard. It had been bench grafted to Dolgo last spring but that scion popped a few leaves and stopped growing (2nd photo). Since the growth was so little, I never removed all rootstock growth below that graft. This Dolgo did the same thing on a G.222 planted at the farm and that one was T-budded to Kerr.

In the 2nd photo, you can see the 2nd T-bud just above the one that leafed out.
Dabinett on G11 month old Tbud.jpg dolgo whip and tongue graft above the t-bud dabinett.jpg
 
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Here is another couple T-buds that have leafed out already. These were T-budded on August 19 when I received budwood from the USDA GRIN. This is PI 594099, an asian crabapple budded on M27 rootstock. The green growth on the left and right are the bottom 2 t-buds leafing out. There is a 3rd t-bud above that that has not leafed out. The top one had the PVC grafting tape removed at about 10 days and I felt it had not healed enough. The other two had the tape removed a week or so later..month old tbud.jpg
 
Here is a photo of the Crimson Spire grafted onto P.18. I'll remove the left limb for scionwood this winter.

crimson spire on P18 Sept20.jpg
 
Various thoughts and items:
  • From the above photos, you can see I took up the ground cloth in my breeding orchard. This is a raised bed I made due to my backyard being wet in the spring and through most of June this year. Moles decided it was very nice. I tried a few things short of trapping them. To help them decide to move on, I removed the ground cloth. They are probably still there but it is less noticeable now. They are still active over along the wood fence about 12 ft away.
  • The Golden Sentinel initially set 5 apples. I removed one and another fell off in June or July leaving 3 apples. They were starting to look bad with some rotten spots. 2 dropped after a storm a few weeks ago and I took the other a week or so later. I removed the seeds and all but 1 floated but they still had some white color on the outside of the seed. I put them in the fridge to stratify and will try to germinate them next spring.
  • A few posts back, I added a photo of some mature Stark Spires columnar trees at an Arboretum near Philadelphia. Unfortunately they won't consider letting me have scionwood or budwood. I should have mentioned those are on MM.106 rootstock. Those look to be a good size tree for a shot plot, sturdy and tall. I would guess B.118 and P.18 would be 10-20% taller.
  • Next year I am still planning to do some more trees on B.118 and some on MM.106. I am undecided about how much to do on MM.111.
  • I got budwood for Novole rootstock from GRIN and am thinking about getting scionwood for some other rootstocks. I will request Bud 490 which is in between MM.106 and MM.111. It propagates easily by hardwood cuttings and is cold-hardy. I am researching P.13 and P.14 which are slightly larger than MM.106 sized. Swedish bred Alnarp-2 is in the same size class but it is noted for sensitivity to Mg deficiency in the soil. For an interstem on Novole, I might get very dwarfing Bud 491 and 30-40% dwarfing Ottawa 3. For P.13, P.14, and Alnarp-2, I'd have to get them into a stoolbed, possibly by layering or maybe graft onto something with different colored leaves plant deep enough for the grafted material to root.
  • I have become interested in propagating by hardwood cuttings. It started with some patents I read related to the Novole rootstock. Looking at other Geneva patents, it is mentioned for propagating G.11 and G.65. Bud 490 is supposed to be easy to propagate by hardwood cuttings. I have five G.11 in my breeding orchard and the patent protection for it has expired. I will take G.11 cuttings and from M.27, B.118, and P.18 since I have them. The process will be to take cuttings as soon as they go dormant. The base of the cutting will get dipped in a liquid rooting hormone. This would be a short dip for G.11 while the rest will get a longer soak overnight at lower hormone levels. I'll make a heated rooting bed for them in my unheated garage that will keep the rooting media warm to help root growth but allow top of the cutting to stay dormant. Whatever roots will get put into rootmaker pots next spring, t-budded next summer, and planted out in the fall or following spring. Hopefully next fall I can try this with Novole and Bud 490.
 
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