Permanent Stand Pics

Here is one of the two Maverick blinds we put up today. Used a pulley system with cable attached to eye bolts at 2 corners and then used winch on 4 wheeler to lift into position. The wheeler had to be chained to a tree behind it to keep the rear end down. It worked better than I thought it would. They are 16' off the ground.mav 2.jpg The tree stand will be taken down. It is set up mainly as a bow site but will be good for in the woods rifle and muzzle hunting as well.
 
Here is one of the two Maverick blinds we put up today. Used a pulley system with cable attached to eye bolts at 2 corners and then used winch on 4 wheeler to lift into position. The wheeler had to be chained to a tree behind it to keep the rear end down. It worked better than I thought it would. They are 16' off the ground.View attachment 4439 The tree stand will be taken down. It is set up mainly as a bow site but will be good for in the woods rifle and muzzle hunting as well.
Does anyone have any pics of Permanent stands they would want to share? I plan on building one this summer for my kids to hunt out of. Would love to get some ideas of what people like/don't like. Really interested in seeing details/opinions of bases, windows, doors, interiors, ladders basically anything.
Does anyone have any pics of Permanent stands they would want to share? I plan on building one this summer for my kids to hunt out of. Would love to get some ideas of what people like/don't like. Really interested in seeing details/opinions of bases, windows, doors, interiors, ladders basically anything.
 
Windows are one of the biggest factors in building a blind. I see all different kinds of windows on here. I've seen some hinge windows from deerview windows that look pretty good, and along the lines of what I am looking for. The hard part is figuring out the size and layout of the windows. I'm leaning towards 24" x 12" windows, one vertical, and one hortizonal on 3 sides of the blind.



Any thoughts or advice? I'd like to do it right the first time and not have to say " I wish I would have done this..."
 
Younggun, 24" X 12" should be big enough for rifle hunting. However, if you ever decide to become a crossbow hunter, 34" X 10" would be better. That way you can use 36" X 12" Lexan for hinged windows. That is what mine are, in the picture I posted.
 
Here is the last one we built. Just needs cheap steel on the outside.
Nice looking stand Satchmo, where do you buy your legs/base? Is that steel galvanized and how does it hold up in the elements.
 
Windows are one of the biggest factors in building a blind. I see all different kinds of windows on here. I've seen some hinge windows from deerview windows that look pretty good, and along the lines of what I am looking for. The hard part is figuring out the size and layout of the windows. I'm leaning towards 24" x 12" windows, one vertical, and one hortizonal on 3 sides of the blind.



Any thoughts or advice? I'd like to do it right the first time and not have to say " I wish I would have done this..."


That is the window setup that is on my Shadow hunter blind. The way you have it in your drawing it would be more comfortable for a left handed archery shot. The way they have them on my blind would be for right hand archery shot. The Shadow Hunter windows actually consist of an outer window and an inner window. The outside window is solid and can be lowered part way to give the same height as the gun window when gun hunting. Another feature is that when the outside window is closed you can turn light on inside of blind without it being seen on outside. Here is a link to their window kits.
http://shadowhunterllc.com/index.php/component/virtuemart/windowkits.html








 
I'll be posting mine when I get up to the property. I'm making a new one this year that will be my main blind. The wind will be wrong, but I only have access from the West side of my property. IME and IMHO I'm going to be better having the deer smell me, than disturb them by walking to the east side of that area. Also, you guys wouldl $hit yourselves if you saw my neighbor's. It's up 50 feet on telephone poles. I'm not kidding, or exaggerating. It's got wire supports drilled into the ground, and is surrounded by trees (which helps with the wind).

I also attest to preferring a regular door over a trap door. I have an old trashpicked door with a platform. It's not bad, although the platform can get slippery. Make sure you angle your roof in a direction that it won't be hitting your platform.

Some of my notes:

I usually just do a straight horizontal window all the way across on each side. I then put sliding glass or plexi. I like sliding because I can open just a little of the window OR the whole things. To make it darker, I pound in some nails on the interior above the windows, and tack some burlap. I can adjust the height, and even in some cases double it to make it super dark. I like making 2 shutters for each window, so that I can open only one if I feel it is advantageous. As far as the windows go, for this new blind I've been thinking about making windows that are shaped like a T. The vertical portion will have its own piece of plexi, that I can take out for archery. I was thinking about putting a little flap over this piece (or even just some burlap on the outside) for rifle. For rifle I'd just open up the top portion.

For me, the MOST important thing is the shooting bench/surface on the inside. I like to have a rock solid rest. I didn't do it in mine (which I will for my new one) but what my neighbor does is put a sheet of quarter inch (about 12-16 inches) coming inward from the windows on all sides. He has then nails or screws a section of a 2x4 on front of each window, and then screws in a piece of molding with a smooth edge that allows him to creep up to adjust his angle. Also a piece of that foamy-cardboard ceiling tiles (I don't really know what it's called) is great to use instead of the molding. It allows you to rest your trigger guard on it and move up and down but have a ROCK SOLID 2 point rest. I also like to have my windows a bit lower than most. I'm only 5'8, so for me, it's much easier to lower my chair and lean down to get in good position than to try to have to sit up by putting my legs under my butt or bring a boat cushion.

More on this new blind in a bit!
 
Corner windows are a must and bow friendly
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Friendly door
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Insulated
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Didn't get to curtains last year, but they will be in there by fall.

Was it pretty easy to work in those corner windows? I'm contemplating them for my newest blind.
 
Say a guy is building a tower with sides only, no roof or windows. What's the recommended height of the sides for both bow and gun hunting?
 
Nice looking stand Satchmo, where do you buy your legs/base? Is that steel galvanized and how does it hold up in the elements.

Galvanized frame is from a very expensive, discontinued box stand at my former employers home improvement company. Sat on the shelf for two years and I bought it for $50. Threw the plastic hut away and built my own. Chasin' a couple of squeaks though.
 
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here is the ones we put up, really nice sitting in 5 degree weather and only wearing a couple of layers
 
Booner21, did you build your unit? What are you using for roof material?

Looks good. I still like sitting in an open air stand but when the temps drop and the wind blows enclosed stands are great.
 
Booner21, did you build your unit? What are you using for roof material?

Looks good. I still like sitting in an open air stand but when the temps drop and the wind blows enclosed stands are great.
A deers nose likes that too!

There look like some dandies on your wall, nice work. What's that pipe coming out of the roof? That looks like some rubber commercial roofing?
 
We did build them in sections and assembled them at the location. Exterior is osb coated with a heavy coat of exterior paint, windows were ordered from deer view. Roof is rubber roofing, I have friend that works at the plant that produces it so a 20x20 piece costs a case of beer. Works great for ponds also. The pipe is a vent we caulked and spray foamed all the joints and used window seal around all the windows, when I hunt I take one of those stress balls you squeeze and plug up the pipe to help control the scent. Not sure the vent is necessary but wanted to prevent condensation as much as possible.

We bought windows to build 8 of these and so far have put up 3
 
We did build them in sections and assembled them at the location. Exterior is osb coated with a heavy coat of exterior paint, windows were ordered from deer view. Roof is rubber roofing, I have friend that works at the plant that produces it so a 20x20 piece costs a case of beer. Works great for ponds also. The pipe is a vent we caulked and spray foamed all the joints and used window seal around all the windows, when I hunt I take one of those stress balls you squeeze and plug up the pipe to help control the scent. Not sure the vent is necessary but wanted to prevent condensation as much as possible.

We bought windows to build 8 of these and so far have put up 3
Did you buy a plan for these units or did you come up with it yourself. I'd like to find a plan that shows how to do the corner builds in a modular wary.
 
We built them from scratch, we did build the first on as a template and have all the pieces unassembled. They are at a buddy's shed so I don't have acces to them. If you have a chop saw it isn't too difficult, you could even mark the floor on a large piece of cardboard and get measurements from that. If you aren't in a hurry I couldn't take some measurements of the floor template and sides next time I am there, but they are roughly 5x6 by 7ft tall. The corner windows are 12x48 And have a flat 2x4 on each side so they are roughly 20 wide on the short side.
 
Roof is rubber roofing, I have friend that works at the plant that produces it so a 20x20 piece costs a case of beer. Works great for ponds also.

Lucky dog. I need this friend...

Keep these blind pic coming. I hope to build one of these before next deer season as well.
 
Lucky dog. I need this friend...

Keep these blind pic coming. I hope to build one of these before next deer season as well.

Gator! Glad to see you over here!
 
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My first post here. Regarding the above pic. I struggled with the windows on previous stands. I have tried sliders, double hung, no window. My last 3 stands I went with this idea. They are similar to the deer view idea. These are 18"x24". I cut whole in the wall 16"x22". Made of 1/4 plex or lexan.
The two hinges are spring hinged kitchen cabinet hinges. Go look at your kitchen cabinets they are slightly off set so your door can be flush fit. theres some cheap window stripping self adhesive around the edges. I like them best when they swing up out of the way. The first season I hunted with no latch on the top. They mostly stay up on their own but I had one fall down once so I put at latch at the top to hold them up and for off season I put a latch on the bottom to hold them shut in heavy winds. Some of my other stands were retro fitted to these windows so I have some hinged at the top or bottom depending on what room I had to swing the window. I had a local plastic company cut the lexan for me. I think each piece was 14 dollars and I bought the hinges at discount store for a dollar for the pair. So each window was around 15 dollars. I can shoot my fairly small crossbow out of them or rifle. The windows are completely silent. I can swing them up at a moments notice. So far I don't think I would do it any different but again I like best when they fold up.
 
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