Which Grafting Knife?

[The Fishman]

I have been trying to come up with ideas for my Father's Day gift and I have been wanting to try grafting next year, so I would like to pick out a grafting knife. After searching the forums, it seems the Tina grafting knives are recommended, but they are a little pricey just to try my hand at grafting. I am looking at the Victorinox grafting knife for around $20 and another Victorinox grafting knife for around $40. The second Victorinox has a brass bark lifter. I am trying to learn about grafting and know a little bit, but there is still a tremendous amount that I don't know. My question is, what type of grafting method would make use of the brass bark lifter? The $20 knife has a bark lifter on the blade and it looks like the $40 knife has a bark lifter on the blade also. What would the brass bark lifter do that the bark lifter on the blade would not? I am mainly interested in grafting persimmons and pears so I believe that whip and tongue and bark grafting are the most common methods used in grafting these trees. Would either of these knives be appropriate or is there something better out there?

 

[Prof.Kent]

Any simple locking-blade grafting knife will work.

 

[DLH]

I’ve got one like the top but it don’t have the blade for lifting bark to do budding. I also picked up a mora chisel knife and it seems to be good too grafted several this year with it. For field grafting I think it would be ideal because you can sheath it on a belt and don’t have to open and close constantly. Either of those you have pictures of will work as long as it has a single bevel I do like that now. Before I was using an opinel and prefer the single bevel.

 

[yoderjac]

I have the top one. I like it for apples. I like a knife that is razor sharp with a single bevel like that for W&T or any graft that depends on cambium alignment. In the hands of an experienced grafter, any knife will do. A good knife benefits novice grafters more.

For bark grafting persimmon trees in the field, I use a box-cutter type knife with snap-off blades I got from lowes. Bark grafting does not depend on cambium alignment and precision cuts are less important. It seems to depend more on pressure. I like a sharp knife for cutting through heavier bark of older persimmons in the field but precision is not important. The heavier bark dulls a knife quickly. The snap off blades ensure the knife is always sharp when I grafting dozens of persimmons in the field.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[cavey]

One nice thing about the bark lifter being on the back end of the knife is while spreading the bark at that end of your knife the blade wont accidentally fold up and lop off your fingers...

Single bevel, high carbon and wickedly sharp. Wickedly sharp is thee most important thing as well as the single side bevel. There are left and right handed knives - just in case you are a lefty -- most people dont know that.

You do not need a Tina not by a long shot (buy one if you can afford it, it will last a lifetime) my favorite is my antonini (it costs less than a tina and will also last a lifetime) and it does have the brass bark lifter on the back end - which as of right now is useless for me as i suck at bark and or bud grafting. If your going to do only whip and tongue grafting you wont need the bark lifter. If your going to bud graft get the bark lifter the fact that it folds up I think is a nice deal mine is fixed and though not sharp the pointed brass end is a pain in the pocket.

A good tool is a good tool... you dont need a great tool to graft but dont skimp and by that I mean and it will offend some - dont opt out on a grafting knife the 20 dollar one you have up above will work perfectly... far better than other choices. Start there and figure out if grafting is for you and then experiment with different types of blades if you want too. Good luck and have fun.

 

[yoderjac]

And one more thing to consider if money is an issue. Sharp is more important than other features like a bark lifter. You will need at least 2 grades of sharpening stones, and 3 if you eventually get nicks in the knife, along with a stropping block. Most of the time I just use the Extra Fine diamond, ceramic, and stropping block. I'm right handed and recently bought a left handed Tina for some cuts I prefer to make away from me rather than toward me. Cavey is absolutely correct about the sharpness and it holds it edge better. All grafting knives need regular touchup. Some, more often than others.

So, when balancing price, keep enough in your budget for sharpening gear.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[cavey]

Good point and spot on... wickedly sharp is key and you wont get that unless you do what yoderjac just posted... stropping makes all the diff.

 

[AtomApple]

I just ordered the Antonini from superior fruit equipment. It was just over $16 after shipping.

i really feel uneasy about ordering from amazon. Seems like you never know if you are getting a genuine product, or some cheap Chinese knock-off. I saw some Victorynox instead of Victorinox... makes me wonder, if one is a knock off, so might the other. They are just bolder about copyright infringement.

 

[chummer]

I buy the $8 dollar one on amazon and replace it every year.

 

[AtomApple]

I buy the $8 dollar one on amazon and replace it every year.

I guess that would work too. I was thinking those ones under $10 might go dull after a few cuts.

 

[cavey]

Tiss the season to buy tools,,, preping for the upcoming season.

The Antonini grafting knives I got off amazon were identical to the one I had ordered in the past. But I do understand your fear and a trusted supplier is always better. I could have gotten burned. Seems I paid more for the first one four years ago but I was happy with the two I got they averaged 11.70 a knife tax and shipping... i did file down one of the brass rivets on one that was a bit raised but I usually tweek the knives a bit when I get them. I 600 grit sanded the wood and honed the hell out of them. They are a great value for the price. No major issues for the price. They appear to have a good customer service - there was a nice added note from the seller requesting contact if there was any issues,,,, something I rarely see these days.

What yoderjac said above about what you need for sharping is spot on. In the other post where I talked about getting a fixed blade I have pics of what I use. Plus the pics of the knives. They are legit Antonini knives or most excellent copies. My fixed Tina showed up the other day and I hope its worth the hype... its underwhelming in appearance, I have yet to work the blade - but it doesnt look much better than any of my old steak knives. Time will tell on that purchase.

 

[chummer]

I guess that would work too. I was thinking those ones under $10 might go dull after a few cuts.

I don’t do a ton of grafting but they seem to hold up find. Inevitably I end up using them for other things all year so I just order a new one to graft with in spring.

 

[AtomApple]

So...I got my knife today, and I have a question about blade orientation.
im right handed, when I hold the knife as one would to cut away from my body, the flat side is up, and the beveled side is down.
is that the correct orientation for making a straight cut? I would think the flat side should be down, or against the wood.

 

[TreeDaddy]

........I see a thread "Injuries from Grafting".......in the future.......

bill

 

[cavey]

So...I got my knife today, and I have a question about blade orientation.
im right handed, when I hold the knife as one would to cut away from my body, the flat side is up, and the beveled side is down.
is that the correct orientation for making a straight cut? I would think the flat side should be down, or against the wood.

These are right handed grafting knives... with grafting knives in general you make the cut pulling towards you (whip and tongue method anyways ... bud grafting too). So if you hold it in your hand blade down, the bevel is on the left. When you order a grafting knife a right handed knife will often have an "L" in the number for left bevel not left hand. You have to make sure that the L means bevel or means left handed-- Im guessing depending on the maker that could be different... some may not even have an L in the model number.

I think you have the right knife just the wrong cutting method.... no cutty away, unless your a rebel - then you need a lefty.

 

[cavey]

........I see a thread "Injuries from Grafting".......in the future.......

bill

and Bill is right ... your going to bleed, we all do. Maybe the first few grafts you will want a cut resistant glove on and practice on some odd branch ends.

 

[AtomApple]

and Bill is right ... your going to bleed, we all do. Maybe the first few grafts you will want a cut resistant glove on and practice on some odd branch ends.

Luckily, my work requires cut level II gloves, so I feel very comfortable wearing them. And have easy access to new pairs.

has anyone ever made a cutting block for grafting? Is there a preferred angle for T & G, like 25 degrees. Seems like if there was a tool to get exact degrees, the cambium line up could be perfect every time.

 

[Mortenson]

Haha. The thing is, I never planned on bleeding, and didn't cut myself doing hours of grafting and many intended cuts. The 2 times I cut myself were the 2 times I really knew I stood a good chance and was thinking "this feels wrong but here I am about to do it anyway." My Victorinox was inexpensive, but can be made quite sharp.

 

[cavey]

Luckily, my work requires cut level II gloves, so I feel very comfortable wearing them. And have easy access to new pairs.

has anyone ever made a cutting block for grafting? Is there a preferred angle for T & G, like 25 degrees. Seems like if there was a tool to get exact degrees, the cambium line up could be perfect every time.

I think yoderjac made a cutting wedge with a fixed angle with just that in mind. Apple trees are pretty forgiving - not quite like horseshoes and hand grenades but close. The tape job can really pull the cuts together. Thats not saying a tight matched cut is not important because it is. Thousands upon thousands of WT grafts are done by hand so its just a matter of practice and scion and root stock care. Dont over think it - unless you want to.... just make a good angled cut, back cut and line things up and seal. There are other critical care items and timing issues but as far as the cut - Im serious dont over think it.
Its about surface area and cambium contact - the locking z of WT helps hold the graft union - locks the joint,... Ideally I think the image below is a good angled cut... your going to have mismatched diameters sometimes with which you have to get creative and or try different types of grafts. In the end good cambium contact - even if its just one side plus a secured tape job to immobilize the union and seal the site that prevents any movement - your really splinting the site to let it heal the tape job makes the difference.

 

[Jordan Selsor]

https://www.sfequip.com/antonini-budding-grafting-knife/

Just pick these up for $12 each
Fit an finish is good, an razor sharp