Cool to see the fox. I shot a mangy old coyote that charged our decoys once, maybe the first case of mange I ever saw now that I think of it.
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Cool!Cool to see the fox. I shot a mangy old coyote that charged our decoys once, maybe the first case of mange I ever saw now that I think of it.
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Over the years we have had a few fox and coyotes come by close while goose hunting, twice we have had deer run through the decoys.
Were the barrels mostly for geese
So if I mount wood duck boxes on poles in the deeper water, such as over 2 ft, should I bother with a predator shield? and how close can I mount them to each other? Same questions for geese.Besides the Delta Waterfowl "hen houses" ... grass encased in a roll of wire and mounted on a post (your #170 post above BD), most of my nesting structures involved the end 1/3 of either metal or plastic 55-gal drums. Metal is better; the sun (UV rays) break down plastic and it cracks. I used metal shears to cut the metal barrels (slices through them like butter) and drilled drain holes in the bottom of the "can." I mounted these barrel nesting cans on a bunch of different floating items - as a base - including sections of telephone poles with 4 X 4 treated lumber base on top of the 2 parallel poles bolted together with L-shaped pieces of steel, pallets stuffed with styrofoam, custom made 2' X 4' pieces of roofing styrofoam wrapped in coil stock, and inflated truck tires (tires didn't work very well - ride too low in the water). In addition, I hung them on poles driven into the bottom of the lake/pond and I lag bolted some to trees that were in the water. If you get the nest off the bank and in the water, your predation from mammals goes way down. I used wood chips and straw for nesting materials; the taller the sides of the can, the less problem I seemed to have with avian predators. Biggest problem .... lots of different fish (muskies, bass, flatheads, etc) like to eat very small geese.
We used chain link fence top rails. 3 pieces make two posts. One entire length driven in, then cut another in half. Attach the half pole to the box using u-bolts, and slide it on top of the post mounted in the pond. Makes it easy to remove the box if needed. We also added predator guards to the main post.[/QUOTE
So if the poles are the same diameter, how does one slide over the other?
Guess who's never dealt with chain link fences ! Thanks for the idea...Top railing is not the same diameter at one end. https://www.homedepot.com/p/YARDGAR...Gauge-Galvanized-Top-Rail-328913DPT/100322532
Anyone hunting waterfowl with 20ga? If so, what size shot seems to work best?
1's and 2's for waterfowl with a 20. I've switched over to a 12 gauge but used a 20 for a long time. Scout, camo well, and stay in your range and you'll be fine. I have a friend who hunts geese with a .410... head shoots them and is great at it.Anyone hunting waterfowl with 20ga? If so, what size shot seems to work best?
I looked into that, and it didn't seem appropriate for hunting mallards and geese in January. If you are going to do it, I think the shot size related to the shot material would be the same for each bird. Just make sure your velocities/energies are high enough, and check your patterns.
I was using steel shot, and it comes out fast but slows down rather quickly. 40 yards is absolute maximum for the loads I was shooting.
I used steel BB shot for geese and steel #2 for mallards.