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voles/mice

bowhunternw

5 year old buck +
I got a couple of crab apples coming and was going to do a fence around them for deer. I understand that you also need to protect the trunks from voles, mice and rabbits as well. Are they only a problem in winter or is it year round protection you need. Thanks
 
Winter is worse, IMO, but they can chew at any time of year. If you can't mow short around your trees all the time or spread small stone around them, ( so hawks & owls can see them ), I'd wrap them with aluminum window screen. I make ours at least 24" tall after tucking a couple inches into the soil / stones. If you're in big snow country, you might want to go 36" tall. Staple 'em shut with a regular stapler. As the tree grows, the staples will loosen & pull out. Once and done !!
 
my recommendation is put aluminium window screen on the day you plant them. Screen is cheap, it's not worth the risk. I use 36" tall and 20" wide. Some of my larger / older trees will be retrofitted with 48" tall.
 
Protect from them year round. I had some get under my mulch and weed barrier and chew off all the support roots of the tree - tree won't survive on a tap root alone.
Most guys use metal window screen - I use a real fine opening wire mesh. Make sure it is ground level and tall enough to protect your tree even with snow on the ground. I have heard that rabbits will get to them as well. Since I went from mulch to stone on top of my weed barrier I have not had any issues with anything in or under the stone.
 
Alright thanks for the advice guys, I will get protection right away then.
 
J-bird - same at our place with the stone. The jagged limestone chips we use cave in on the rodents if they try to tunnel and are sharp to the touch so they don't like getting into them at all. 3 to 4" deep on top of landscaping cloth, 40" square all around each tree. No probs. :) Window screen too - 30 to 32" tall.
 
Should the window screen be wrapped around the tree so there is little or no gap between the screen and the tree or how much space should be left between them?
 
If you're asking me peeps, I staple the screen to about 3/4" from the tree trunk, so it's not TIGHT. I do that at top and bottom so there's a little " wiggle room ". My screen bottom is about 3" below the stone chips which - in our circumstance - deters mice/voles from tunneling into the bottom of the screen. As the tree trunk expands in girth, it'll work the staples loose and make it's own room. I periodically check our trees anyway so if a staple needs a little " help " I can pull it out. No headaches, really. I learned this method from other guys on this forum and another forum. The apple experts that have been doing this for a while get the credit. Guys like Stu, Maya, NH mtns., Aero, Crazy Ed, Benhpr, etc. I've been planting apples / crabs for a few years, but I can tell you the system I learned from these guys WORKS !! I also learned some of the same tips from a local orchard man near to my camp.
 
Thanks that makes sense. The knowledge on this site is incredible!!! Can't wait for planting time.
 
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Peeps - check out Crazy Ed's pix in the previous post. That's the deal I was describing that Ed has in his pix. I just cover my landscape cloth out to the edge of the cage. We have a batch of mice / voles, so I overkill the stone !! Thanks for posting the pix Ed !
 
The only thing i don't recommend to others in my pictures is the black plastic. Please realize i am growing apples in beach sand. Plastic works in my situation but if you have actual soil dont use plastic.
 
Those are some great pics!! My "soil" is also very sandy. Don't know yet if I'll use landscape cloth or a plastic. With plastic I am assuming one must punch lots of holes to let water through. I'm set now with the window screening.
 
This is what i'm dealing with. It's pretty amazing i've actually had a few fruit.

Yes i punch a few holes right around the trunk of the tree with the plastic.

Notice my ready to be planted grafted apple tree has window screen on it BEFORE it even makes it in the planting hole.

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I have extremely sandy ground here in W MI. Are you saying Ed that the black plastic (from like walmart or lowes thats garden weed sheets?) is also a barrier against the sun that keeps the underground most longer?

I can get all the 2 gallon buckets I want for free, I use them around all my trees with a very small hole drilled in for watering.
 
I have extremely sandy ground here in W MI. Are you saying Ed that the black plastic (from like walmart or lowes thats garden weed sheets?) is also a barrier against the sun that keeps the underground most longer?

I can get all the 2 gallon buckets I want for free, I use them around all my trees with a very small hole drilled in for watering.

I buy it from menards in the paint section. I dont recall if it's 6x6 or 8x8 but buy the thicket (mil) you can.

It has lasted at least 4 years for me so far. I dont think that it's a barrier agaist the sun, but it does help hold moisture and it doesnt evaporate as fast.
 
Oh ok, we don't have a menards but I have a lowes, i'll try there. thanks Ed! What do you pay for your rock that you use, how much do you think I'd need for 40 trees?
 
Oh ok, we don't have a menards but I have a lowes, i'll try there. thanks Ed! What do you pay for your rock that you use, how much do you think I'd need for 40 trees?

I think bags of pea gravel is like $2-3/bag. My dad just got a quote for 11 yards for $300. Cheaper to buy in bulk, but sometimes bags are less handling. If doing bags I would say 2 per tree.
 
my back hurts already....lol!
 
Yeah. Bags are easier since we don't have a tractor/FIL.
 
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