Trees orders?

Virginia/Hewes crab, it's a decent eating apple too. Golf ball size for me here. I've read it is a popular cider apple.

All the hype 7-8 years ago about Franklin got a lot of them planted, hasn't been anything special for me either.
I have one and it’s my favorite so far if any that I’ve planted
 
For next spring I’ve got ordered;

10-Chinese Chestnut
5-Red Maple
5-Sugar Maple
10-Chinquapin Oak
10-Sawtooth Oak
5-English Oak
10-Northern Pecan

All from ColdStream Farm

The maples and a few of the chestnuts will be planted here at the house along the woods.
The rest are going into the shrub strips at the Big Woods.
The plan is to have a family planting day one Saturday in early April with all the grandkids helping, that way one day thirty or forty years from now they can tell their kids they planted those trees with Great Grandpa and Grandma.
 
I've been driving around looking for ROD hotspots in the ditch. I have an idea of where they are, but until they turn bright red at the end of winter, I won't be able to find them again. I'm feeling less and less that I need to keep going on ROD, but I'm going to try to do the $1000 dollar bush anyway just for the sake of doing it. I should get some ROD going in the SW corner of my property. I'll be down there in another year or two to start thickening work.

I've got visions of blasting in a new 1/4-1/3 acre plot next year. If I can pull that off, I'm gonna make some high spots, and that might work well for 3-4 apple trees on the north end of that new plot. I'm flirting with disaster being in bear country, so it'll be a small investment to see what happens. I'm not gonna get into $150 trees. Probably just throw some B118 rootstocks in the ground and see what happens.
 
I've been driving around looking for ROD hotspots in the ditch. I have an idea of where they are, but until they turn bright red at the end of winter, I won't be able to find them again. I'm feeling less and less that I need to keep going on ROD, but I'm going to try to do the $1000 dollar bush anyway just for the sake of doing it. I should get some ROD going in the SW corner of my property. I'll be down there in another year or two to start thickening work.

I've got visions of blasting in a new 1/4-1/3 acre plot next year. If I can pull that off, I'm gonna make some high spots, and that might work well for 3-4 apple trees on the north end of that new plot. I'm flirting with disaster being in bear country, so it'll be a small investment to see what happens. I'm not gonna get into $150 trees. Probably just throw some B118 rootstocks in the ground and see what happens.
I feel it is worthwhile to have a purpose or time period in mind when planting apple trees. Pick a drop time that matches that purpose. Maybe bow season, rifle season, winter food source. You can always topwork your rootstock, as well.

I would favor dolgo seedlings( rootstocks) if you can find them.
 
I have 2 Doube-D pears coming from Boulu Tree nursery the end of Dec. They had a sale in July but you had to have the trees shipped before the end of the year to get the sale price. Supposedly golf ball sized pears that drop Nov-Dec-Jan ,probably something like a Dr Deer pear.

Whitetail Crabs : 3 Death Wish , 1 30-06 1 Feather up , 1 Redfield , 1 Golden Hornet
 
Virginia/Hewes crab, it's a decent eating apple too. Golf ball size for me here. I've read it is a popular cider apple.

All the hype 7-8 years ago about Franklin got a lot of them planted, hasn't been anything special for me either.
Has it (Franklin) produced for you yet? Growing too slow?
 
I've been driving around looking for ROD hotspots in the ditch. I have an idea of where they are, but until they turn bright red at the end of winter, I won't be able to find them again. I'm feeling less and less that I need to keep going on ROD, but I'm going to try to do the $1000 dollar bush anyway just for the sake of doing it. I should get some ROD going in the SW corner of my property. I'll be down there in another year or two to start thickening work.

I've got visions of blasting in a new 1/4-1/3 acre plot next year. If I can pull that off, I'm gonna make some high spots, and that might work well for 3-4 apple trees on the north end of that new plot. I'm flirting with disaster being in bear country, so it'll be a small investment to see what happens. I'm not gonna get into $150 trees. Probably just throw some B118 rootstocks in the ground and see what happens.
Yellow River Nurseries has some nice dolgo rootstock that would work great as an early season apple. Right around $5 per tree if you order 20 I think. I use those and red splendor crabapples from them for my rootstock when I graft trees.
 
On the mystery rootstock stark uses you could bury the graft and let the FC self root it will likely take much longer to produce fruit but you should end up with a full size tree.
 
Yellow River Nurseries has some nice dolgo rootstock that would work great as an early season apple. Right around $5 per tree if you order 20 I think. I use those and red splendor crabapples from them for my rootstock when I graft trees.
Those dolgo seedlings can vary a lot though, which can be a good thing. Most are early droppers, but I have one dolgo seedling behind my house that is still loaded with fruit.

If I only had $100 to spend on apple trees for deer, I’d probably buy 20 dolgo seedling trees for $5 each. They grow fast and if one had fruit that dropped earlier or later than you wanted you could just top work the central leader and it would start dropping the new variety in a couple years.

I did that a few times with seedling trees. I topworked the central leader at 6-8 feet and I have one variety of apples on the bottom of the tree and one on the top.
 
Those dolgo seedlings can vary a lot though, which can be a good thing. Most are early droppers, but I have one dolgo seedling behind my house that is still loaded with fruit.

If I only had $100 to spend on apple trees for deer, I’d probably buy 20 dolgo seedling trees for $5 each. They grow fast and if one had fruit that dropped earlier or later than you wanted you could just top work the central leader and it would start dropping the new variety in a couple years.

I did that a few times with seedling trees. I topworked the central leader at 6-8 feet and I have one variety of apples on the bottom of the tree and one on the top.

I’ve got a couple dolgo seedlings on my yard that I got from coldstream or Chief River about five years ago. I had tubed them and they kept dying back to ground level every year.

I gave up on them last spring and pulled all the protections off of them. Wouldn’t you know it, they sprouted new growth again. So I cleaned them up, got rid of the tube, put a wire mesh around them and a cage, mulched and matted them. I’ll see how they come this spring.

Marvin has been having some luck with common wild apple seedlings from somewhere. No clue what they’ll produce, but that might be an option too. I need to get down to that grafting clinic in Buckman and learn how to do that. I tried bud grafting once in summer and it didn’t go well.


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I know what I’d put on all of my trees if I knew how to graft. There are crabs in Akeley that put out bushels of golf ball sized apples that hang into November. I’d do some Chinese R&D and get some of those scions and make it happen.


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7 apple, 4 pear and 3 persimmon from Blue Hill to create the last mini orchard on the place unless next year's hopeful logging opens up another spot or two.

I also have some "Tree of the North" hybrid chestnuts potted (in my garage for the winter) that will join them in the spring.
 
I’ve got a couple dolgo seedlings on my yard that I got from coldstream or Chief River about five years ago. I had tubed them and they kept dying back to ground level every year.

I gave up on them last spring and pulled all the protections off of them. Wouldn’t you know it, they sprouted new growth again. So I cleaned them up, got rid of the tube, put a wire mesh around them and a cage, mulched and matted them. I’ll see how they come this spring.

Marvin has been having some luck with common wild apple seedlings from somewhere. No clue what they’ll produce, but that might be an option too. I need to get down to that grafting clinic in Buckman and learn how to do that. I tried bud grafting once in summer and it didn’t go well.


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I've never had good luck with tree tubes on apple trees - critters seem to be attracted to the tubes and I also suspect the inside of the tubes can see massive temperature swings in winter that cooks and freezes the young tree. I bet if you put some aluminum screen along the bottom 18" of your dolgo seedlings and put a cage around that your success would improve.

The yellow river dolgo $5 seedlings are great trees - I potted them after grafting and some of them are 6' tall after one growing season. I also left a couple without grafting and those hit 6' after 1 year as well. I'd recommend potting them for a year so they can be weeded, watered and fertilized regularly so they can out compete any weeds in their final location.

Bud grafting is above my skillset, but regular grafting is easy when the scion and rootstock (or top work) branch has the same diameter. When I want to change the variety of an existing tree that I don't really like, I just wait until the terminal shoot is above deer browsing height and I topwork that shoot at the location that the diameter of that shoot matches my scion diameter. Easy Peesy.
 
I’ve got a couple dolgo seedlings on my yard that I got from coldstream or Chief River about five years ago. I had tubed them and they kept dying back to ground level every year.

I gave up on them last spring and pulled all the protections off of them. Wouldn’t you know it, they sprouted new growth again. So I cleaned them up, got rid of the tube, put a wire mesh around them and a cage, mulched and matted them. I’ll see how they come this spring.

Marvin has been having some luck with common wild apple seedlings from somewhere. No clue what they’ll produce, but that might be an option too. I need to get down to that grafting clinic in Buckman and learn how to do that. I tried bud grafting once in summer and it didn’t go well.


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My Bud grafts were failures as well.

I can show you and Marvin what I know about grafting. Topworking works pretty well, but I keep an eye on the trees for a bit afterwords. Stu taught me most of what I know.

I do not use full tubes on apple trees, but do use an expanded tube that is 2-3 foot tall and is open with screen on the north side for smaller trees. That new growth has to harden off before winter. It needs the cold exposure.
 
I've never had good luck with tree tubes on apple trees - critters seem to be attracted to the tubes and I also suspect the inside of the tubes can see massive temperature swings in winter that cooks and freezes the young tree. I bet if you put some aluminum screen along the bottom 18" of your dolgo seedlings and put a cage around that your success would improve.

The yellow river dolgo $5 seedlings are great trees - I potted them after grafting and some of them are 6' tall after one growing season. I also left a couple without grafting and those hit 6' after 1 year as well. I'd recommend potting them for a year so they can be weeded, watered and fertilized regularly so they can out compete any weeds in their final location.

Bud grafting is above my skillset, but regular grafting is easy when the scion and rootstock (or top work) branch has the same diameter. When I want to change the variety of an existing tree that I don't really like, I just wait until the terminal shoot is above deer browsing height and I topwork that shoot at the location that the diameter of that shoot matches my scion diameter. Easy Peesy.
If you order common wild apple or apple seedlings , you can tube them for a year or two . They will be out of the tube almost guaranteed.

Then i usually cut the tube back and cage them . It seems to work.

CWA were plugs from Univ of Idaho Nursery.
 
When I've tubed apples, i used 2 sheets so the diameter is doubled. The airflow is better that way. That said, as big a fan as I am using tubes for oaks, I definitely think the windows screen and cage method is best for fruit.
 
I have one Franklin Cider from Stark Bros. Like others, not super impressed. I'll give it another few years, but I suspect it will be a top work candidate.

After ordering between 10-25 fruit trees a year for the last 4 years, I've finally leveled off. So far this year, I've only purchased two Death Wish and two chestnuts from Whitetail Crabs. I have enough varieties from WC, Blue Hill and others that if I want more trees I will just take scion from my existing trees. This year showed a need for more rifle season fruit, so Enterprise, Arkansas Black, Kerr, Buckman, Big Dog , and Sweet November will prioritized for grafting and topworking.
 
SD,

You might take a good look at kerr. IT makes great branch angles. I thought it wasn't so great for a late season hanger, but I 've been proven wrong. I'd try those and prune them well. Maybe give antonovka or dolgo rootstock a try. Assuming sandy soil?

Folks have marketed kerr as bear damage resistant.

My fraklin cider from stark has a greay trunk and has those unique looking M111 roots. Roots almost look like they have a little wrapping or loose outter layer. I got a macoun in their ready to plant little plastic boxes. Very fine roots like B118.
 
Every year, I need to replace a tree or two, or, I find a spot that cries to have a small apple grove added. This year, I ordered two Enterprise, and one Fugi Supreme on M106 rootstocks from Waflers. At $15 each, these are a deal. I also ordered two Haralson apples from Cummins on P-18 rootstocks. Cummins is a bit more expensive, but I really like the P-18 rootstock, and the Haralson looks like an ideal tree for deer season drops.
 
I forgot about Waflers. They have sweet 16 too....

Dartana, I'm growing a few Galarina, Granny Smiths, and enterprise on M111 for friends in pots this sprng for rifle season trees. I will be grafting a Franklin cider for up at camp. Likely leave my home tree alone, although Franklin doesn't sound as hyped up as they advertise it. Might be a good cider tree.
 
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