Tree chlorosis rant

fingers

5 year old buck +
I have several chestnut trees, mulberry, and a few oaks on a ridge at our farm. Some trees struggle with chlorosis while their neighbor of same species does not. There is no significant difference in soil or moisture. If I give a dose of 10-10-10 in the spring, they are all green until summer, but once the heat and dry summer comes, some of them just turn yellowish and don't grow as well as others. This pretty well sums up my feelings about itIMG_20250811_182945.jpg
 
Great question and I should test it. Never have since there are several trees doing well in the same soil
 
I have several chestnut trees, mulberry, and a few oaks on a ridge at our farm. Some trees struggle with chlorosis while their neighbor of same species does not. There is no significant difference in soil or moisture. If I give a dose of 10-10-10 in the spring, they are all green until summer, but once the heat and dry summer comes, some of them just turn yellowish and don't grow as well as others. This pretty well sums up my feelings about itView attachment 81455
I know the feeling

Its part of growing trees

keep plantin', observing, asking questions ,and adapting approaches to current environment and conditions

Propitious profanity is also helpful

bill
 
Chlorosis is usually from lack of iron. Do you supplement iron?
 
I think some natural mineral deposits in the soil that is rather localized maybe the culprit and that’s why some trees in a given area do fine and other do poorly but pure speculation on my part I do know that I no longer try to supplement and save a tree that is suffering from it just cut your losses early and move on to a different species for that location
 
I have recently been using "orchid food" for all my baby oaks per Oakseeds recs in previous posts

Chlorosis/yellowing resolved and all look much healthier

bill
Can u elaborate on this process please?
 
How I understand chlorosis is the plant is lacking nitrogen.

Iron will acidify the area around it , this acidity makes nitrogen more available to the plant.

I think there are levels of root degradation that makes nitrogen unavailable no matter what is done.

I’m beginning to believe I may cause this root degradation ( dampening disease) when sprouting them in a cold garage that gets really warm in the day if I’m around, but cold the rest of the time.

I’m not finding them to rally to the point that they recover. Culling is perhaps the way to go.
 
Can u elaborate on this process please?
A Miracle Grow product available at all big box store

Its used for acid loving plants

I mix a tablespoon/1.5 gal water as per directions on the box

ive been watering my container oaks with this ~ every 10-14 days( in addition to regular watering)

bill
 
A Miracle Grow product available at all big box store

Its used for acid loving plants

I mix a tablespoon/1.5 gal water as per directions on the box

ive been watering my container oaks with this ~ every 10-14 days( in addition to regular watering)

bill
Mir-Acid?? I've used it on azaleas & rhododendrons (acid-loving plants) with good results. Holly Tone is another like Mir-Acid.
 
Back
Top