The Woods ... mistakes I'v made

Hey oak. Hope all is well. Quick note on hybrids. Tried a heritage oak. Which is a cross between an English and bur. Which I was hoping the increased alkalinity tolerance would help me with my soils. Not so much luck.
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Any recs? Thinking I'm stuck with just straight burs at the moment. But dang are they slow.
 
Hey oak. Hope all is well. Quick note on hybrids. Tried a heritage oak. Which is a cross between an English and bur. Which I was hoping the increased alkalinity tolerance would help me with my soils. Not so much luck.
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Any recs? Thinking I'm stuck with just straight burs at the moment. But dang are they slow.
My acorn planted burs out grow my transplanted by a large margin, transplanting really slows bur oak growth rate in my experience.
 
Also I have been collecting acorns from a Bass Pro shop parking lot for the last several years and shipping out to other members I believe them to be a bur hybrid but that is a guess they maybe worth a try.
 
Here is a thread on those other oaks

 
Hey oak. Hope all is well. Quick note on hybrids. Tried a heritage oak. Which is a cross between an English and bur. Which I was hoping the increased alkalinity tolerance would help me with my soils. Not so much luck.
View attachment 79667

Any recs? Thinking I'm stuck with just straight burs at the moment. But dang are they slow.
TBT ... clearly a heritage with dominate traits of the English parent. Don't quite understand your concerns ... is it slow growth, yellow leaves, etc.
My experience says best growing conditions are 1. sufficient water, 2 elimination of competition, 3 adequate fertilization, and protection from critters... mulching will help both 1 and 2 ... while fertilization with a product like Miracle Grow (acid loving plant product) with essential elements (see post # 357 above) is beneficial for growth. Heritage normally has dark green leaves; however, in the fall some English oaks turn a yellowish color. If your photo is pre-August, it may be time for chelated iron treatment (if the tree has an iron chlorisis problem). Available in either liquid or granules form. Hi-Yield makes an iron sulfate that will also work. Since most of both Dakotas are zone 4, the cold tolerance of the bur parent should ensure harsh winters are tolerable. Good luck and tell us how your efforts with this tree progress.
 
Looks like his trees are suffering from chlorosis I have areas that also have this issue I tried for years to grow a soft maple in my yard even adding ironite around it and digging pits around it and filling them with ironite I finally just gave up on that tree and cut it down.

 
5-6 years ago, a friend ask for a couple of trees to screen off a 10' area in the corner of his back yard. I gave him 3 columnar oak acorns and instructions on how to plant them. I recently ask how they were doing; he said you have to come see them. One tree in particular is very interesting. It grew from an acorn off a hybrid (Regal Prince); however, I can't decide if its a mutant or genetic throwback. First, it has giant leaves .... 10.3 inches in length. two distinctly different leaves with regard to shape and color. If I had to guess, I'd say it's a cross between a swamp white oak, an English oak and a bur oak. The original acorn was off a cross between a swo and an English oak that could have been pollinated by a bur oak (3-way cross). Leaf size favors bur oak; leaf color and shape favors both swamp white oak and bur oak (different leaves off same tree - both tops and underside of leaves are different). Photo 1 is top of swo shaped leaf with deep rich green color; photo 2 shows same leaf compared with leaf more bur shaped in shape and color. A striking difference is revealed when the underside of the paired leaves are examined; the silvery and fuzzy swo color and texture vs the darker and smooth aspect of a bur oak. When it begins to fruit, I'll try to plant some that result in F2 hybrids.
Obviously, if I want to duplicate this tree, grafting will clearly be in order. Hope you enjoy the photos.
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