Southern Indiana crabapple trees help

iceman10

A good 3 year old buck
I have some crabapple trees on my property in southern Indiana . They were planted back in the 1942 & they produce green crabapples . I want to get more of these as they have great production . I’m just not sure what they are called & where to buy them, can anyone point me in the right direction, the apples get about 2” in size . Also what other types would work in my zone , I believe it’s zone 5.


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I'm not sure what you are asking, are you just trying to buy more trees that are the same ? If so a picture of the tree and fruit would help.

IF you really want identical tees you need to buy rootstock , and graft scion ( a young shoot or twig) from your 1942 trees onto the rootstock.
 
Yes I was hoping to buy more of them & other types. I have some cuttings to start , but was hoping to find some established mature trees as well. I will take a picture of one to post when I get outta my turkey blind . I’m actually in zone 6 .


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Yes I was hoping to buy more of them & other types. I have some cuttings to start , but was hoping to find some established mature trees as well. I will take a picture of one to post when I get outta my turkey blind . I’m actually in zone 6 .


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If those trees are that good , grafting is the Way to go. I'm not sure about "mature trees" but places Like Blue Hill, Whitetail Crabs , Mid West Deer Trees sell some of the best Wildlife trees that are 3 foot to close to 6 foot depending on the growing season or if you buy 2 year old trees. Just check to see if each variety is rated for your zone.
 
My guess... they're some of the native crab species - Malus coronaria, M.ioensis, M. angustifolia, etc.
You can harvest seed from the fruits and grow your own, or some of the wildlife-focused nurseries mentioned above may offer them.
My dad had an orchard of those native crabs, back home in AL, that he'd put together, digging and planting root suckers from productive crabs he'd encountered around east AL.
I have a big 30+ yr old tree here, that was a root sucker from his best. I dug a sucker that had popped up about 30 ft from the trunk earlier this week and potted it up for transplant somewhere else this fall.
I have taken scions from the mother tree and grafted them onto volunteer crabapple seedlings, and onto M27 (it's what I have suckering here) rootstock.
 
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Here is the tree I am talking about. I have some cuttings to start . II have 4 of these on my property.


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pomiferious website is about the most extensive apple species site I have seen. Grafting them onto rootstock will only set you back a year or two vs buying trees if you can find them.

thought indiana was a warmer zone than 5.

Tons of great trees out there, tough to pick a few. On here sudance, goldrush, enterprise, liberty, kerr, and galarina are popular eating varieties that produce apples a bit later than the average apple. Some are october some are even later into november.
 
18d19c373320f8a9943f248c3fa8e67f.jpg

a6b3f61bde25dece7741b2dd9432af44.jpg

Here is the tree I am talking about. I have some cuttings to start . II have 4 of these on my property.


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I'd like to see a close up pic or two of the leaves, bark, and blossoms. The leaves I do see look more like pear than apple
 
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Pictures of a crabapple & the leaves for you homerj .


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Yep, I was wrong. Looks like malus ioensis or malus coronaria
 
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A bit on the late side to be getting apple trees. Some places still have some. Zone 5, almost any tree can be planted.

Looking for winter food, or to draw attraction to your spot at a particular time of year. Most cider apples work pretty good. Other common ones are galarina, enterprise, franklin cider, arkansas black, granny smith, honeycrisp, winesap, and sundance At home I focus on both eating apples for me and having consistent apple prodction from august till winter. Got multiples of liberty, enterprise, galarina, sundance, kerr, and pristine. Cummins nursery has the best explanation of almost any common variety in the US. I have another thread going about last to bloom trees, which I prefer at home.

There's over 4000 known apple varieties. When it comes to crabapples, each one can be different. Even the ones you plant from their seeds can vary. Watch each tree well and pick your favorite 1 or 2 out of the group to graft.

P18, antonovka, dolgo, M111, B118, G890, M7, and domestic apple are commonly liked ones on this site. At home in zone 5/6 in heavier clay I prefer M111, but have M7, antonovka, and B118 doing well in the ground. I have some drainage issues that have been mitigated with drainage channels, so that another reason I prefer M111. At my sandy soil hunting club I prefer antonovka and B118. Trying out a few dolgo seedlings this fall. It used to be zone 3, but USDA redid the map this year and say it;s zone 4 right now. About 40 miles east of lake ontario, the wind makes lake effect snows early and they get polar vortexes every few years. My trees survived a -35 deg night 2 years ago. I have 30-06, drotpine, crossbow, kerr, All winter hangover (AWHO), and will be planting farnklin cider, winter wildlife, dolgo, and more of what I already have up there. Trailman might go up there too. Sometimes crabapple have extended bloom times, so they might recover from an early frost. A few trees like golden delicious have exntended bloom times too.

At home I have alot of disease resistant varieities. I was thinking I have to spray less, but I'm doubting this now. The nautral world is after apple trees. Deer, rabbits, voles, beetles, aphids, caterpillars, japanese beetles, ants, and the list goes on. Some of the diseases can be handled with another chemical in the tank.

Short story long, find a place that sells what you like and has roostock.
 
Most of those native crabs are not CAR resistant, but susceptibility varies from tree to tree. I remember there was one particular tree in my Dad's collection that stood out like a canary in the orchard, due to CAR on the leaves... but always managed to produce a full crop of fruit.
 
Most of those native crabs are not CAR resistant, but susceptibility varies from tree to tree. I remember there was one particular tree in my Dad's collection that stood out like a canary in the orchard, due to CAR on the leaves... but always managed to produce a full crop of fruit.
That tree is evidently "tolerant" of CAR - not a bad tree to have if it still puts out lots of apple crops.
 
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